73 square noise over speed bumps?

[blues90]

I hear a noise on the right rear sounds like rubber and I only hear it when both rear wheels go over a speed bump. I don't hear it bouncing the rear or on corners or jacking it up the entire rear one side at a time to get it on jack stands or lowering it back down.

Is it possible it's a trailing arm bushing at the end of the torsion bar cover? I think there is only one per side and both sides are centered in the covers.

On some sites that sell these bushings show two on each side or is that to cover beetles or is there an inner and out bush?

It doesn't make any noise or handle any different it's only when both sides move down at the same time it makes no noise going up the speed bump and it makes no noise going up the driveway which is steep incline or going down and it's only on the right side. It must be the action of the rear moving the up into the speed bump then the weight of the rear going down.

I toyed with the idea of raising the rear up a bit yet not so sure I want to deal with that.

One more thing I just want to say Photo Bucket , think about a phrase that fits the description to a tee.

[Mr.Duncan]

[Bobnotch]

One possibility is that the shock on that side isn't working correctly (dead rebound), and is allowing the trailing arm to slam against the positive stop on the rear sub/trailing arm mount.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120

[blues90]

[Bobnotch]

[blues90]

[blues90]

I looked at the spring plate bushings and both sides where the torsion bar end sticks past the bushing 4 bolt cover are very close to rubbing the top of the hole in the cover plate.

I never touched them and they are original. I read through the Bentley and it does not mention anything about this. I imagine they should be centered so this would require replacing both the inner and outer bushings right? This would mean pulling the spring plate off the torsion bar and from what I've read the torsion bar seems to always stick in the spring arm or outer splines of the bar.

From what I can tell the inner bushing carries most of the weight since it fits in the tube.

Isn't it the bushings that are the actual pivot point of the spring plate?

I did a search yet everything is now photo bucket logo covered and the videos no longer exist.

[Bobnotch]

You're probably coming due for them then. However, it's not just the 4 bolts that need to be removed, but the other 3 at the end of the spring plate too, maybe even the brake line and parking brake cable (to get enough swing out of the trailing arm). Hardest part is getting the spring plate off it's stop. Then getting a degree measurement at rest off the stop, so you can return it there.

A little trick I found is to get a couple of M10 bolts about 3 inches long to help get the cover back on.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120

[blues90]

[Mr.Duncan]

I'll be doing this bushing job in about 4-6 weeks and will update with photos.
_________________
(Owner) www.vintagecarleds.com

Red 1971 Squareback Thread
Red 1966 Beetle Thread
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1971 Green Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Ghia (sold)
1971 Blue Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Java Green Std Beetle (sold)
1971 Red Squareback (sold)
1966 Red Beetle

[blues90]

[KTPhil]

Tips when removing the spring plate to replace the inner bushing are to (1) of course mark the spline position with a sharp scribe or knife, and (2) tap the end of the bar back into the center splines as you pull the spring assembly off, so it never disengages the inner splines. This way you can ensure it's put back to the original setting. Though some cars sag over the years, requiring you to reset them, many will return to proper ride height/camber just with the new bushings; a little negative camber is not bad for handling, anyway, as long as it's even side to side. (3) coat the rubber (NOT urethane!) with talcum powder to lube them. (4) get longer bolts to start the covers and pull them in tighter, thus allowing the other two stock bolts to engage threads, then replace the longs with the remaining two regulars.

[Mr.Duncan]

[KTPhil]

[blues90]

[blues90]

[Bobnotch]