1974 super beetle disc brakes in front only - confusion

[Joel]

[Her74buggy]

Yep. I knew the answer but I just couldn't find my sarcasm font
Point being even vw installed disc from the factory standard rather than as an option so they obviously thought it was an improved system too, even though the U.S. got jipped by not getting disc like the other countries. I know cost was the company's stated reason but I still don't see how it could have been much higher in the manufacturing cost unless they saved by getting rid of all the front drums they already had in inventory by putting them on the US cars.

[DeathTrap]

VW's in the 70's were still fighting ralph nader and the corvair issues

VW's have a very poor F_R weight ratio, and traction coefficientcy.

Coincidentally the tire pressures vary considerably front to rear. Partially in attempt to handle emergency avoidance and braking irregularities.

Now consider for some of us old enough to remember day to day use and driving characteristics, will remember a sack of sand in the trunk in some futile attempt to correct the f-R bias.

Now take a car that has poor traction coefficient in the front end and add more braking.

The skid and loss of steering becomes much more prevalent.

Add to that the refusal to adjust the drum brake system and add the inactivity of the rear brakes in the emergency stop and avoidance situation.

And consider the number of bugs stuffed into the car in front.

Or whatever the lack of controlled braking manifests as a shock statement after the effect.

One can adjust the somewhat minimal stock braking system and provide themselves with proportionally designed safe stopping.

[thuhreb]

While trying to gain some general knowledge about braking systems I came across this below. Can someone weigh in on this? Do I need the combination valve since I will be having discs in front and drums and back?

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/brakes/brake-types/master-brake2.htm

Also, I am thinking about replacing all the hard lines as I noticed some severe rust spots on them today. Does anyone know where I can get a kit that has all of the hard lines pre bent for my super? If not, if I get the ones that appear straight from top line, how hard will it be to bend them?

Do I also need to go with new braided lines to my rear drums?

[Tim Donahoe]

When I did my front disc conversion, I had to practice the two hardline replacements that came with the kit. I blew it and had to get replacement, replacement hard lines. Practice makes perfect!

I don't think you can buy pre-bent hard lines, so you'll have to bend them yourself. Try using coat hangers as a template. Bend the coat hangers to the shape you need, then start to work on your lines, bending them in the shape of your template hangers.. They have to be pretty exact or else you'll have problems fitting the ends of the brake lines into where they need to go--without cross threading, that is. Use the more expensive brake line bending tools.

Take into account that you shouldn't bend the line and then re-bend them in the opposite direction. It weakens the metal. So you have to go slow.

And I didn't install any type of proportioning valve.

Tim

[Q-Dog]

[samwise]

[DesignBuild]

Not quite true. In Europe all the Kafers as well as the Karmann Ghias could be had with front disc brakes. the 1200 and 1300 models were still available in the 1970s. I have a 1972 1302 (Super) with a 1.3 Liter engine with dual ports. In 1972 you could still buy the 1200 engine even in a Super.

A German acquaintance has pictures of him driving a 1972 1200 that his mother purchased new. It is my understanding that the 1600 engine wasn't all that popular in Europe because of taxes. That made the 1200 and 1300 engine more common.

[H2OSB]

[Tim Donahoe]

H2O, yet, we still resurrect these old threads and, apparently, new folks read them.

They’re sort of like old songs.

Tim
_________________
Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[FreeBug]

Is it that hard to find stock disc spindle/knuckles in US? I managed to get some here, for my disc brakes. I don't remember where I got the backing plates, but I managed to get them to work, even with thicker, ventilated Karschers.

Disc brakes were a factory option, you could have them if you paid.

Maybe flat-landers don't see the need for discs, but you can get fade with spirited mountain driving.

I once lit a cig off my front brakes, but it was a much heavier vehicle, a Volvo 240, automatic, and I was chasing a Merc down the Alps...I had pulled over when the brakes started to fade.

I was pleasantly surprised that i didn't need to change the master cylinder for the conversion.

I have also used modified type 3 backing plates for beetle discs, can't remember if i did it for the 1303. You need to drill and thread the spindles, though, iirc, for dropped (raised) spindles.

Old disc-ussions are often useful, and if there were no use for old things, I would disappear, and so would my cars .

[68IHscout]

If in europe 1303 came with factory disks why not use those backing plates on disk conversion? Or are they different spindles.

[STAYGOLD74]

Very new to all of this, but im going jump right in here -

Bought the upgrade kit for the conversion 1974 Sunbug -
4x130 standard rotors....
Came with all the bearings, races and seals (CIP1)

Races pressed, bearings greased...

I go to tap in the inner seal annnd, there some gaping between the inner bearing and the seal...about 1/8th of and inch....

I take a look at the original drums, no gap...just a nice snug fitted seal that is sitting comfortably in its place.

I checked the bearings - same size as OE....
Checked the seals - same size and style as OE....

I guess my question here would be has anyone ran into this?

[68IHscout]