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honkadori Samba Member

Joined: September 02, 2020 Posts: 23 Location: los angeles
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Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2022 6:13 pm Post subject: tips for adding a fresh water tank underneath? |
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hello hello.
i have a '77 tin top bus that i am currently turning into a camper. soon i am going to install the water system, but i have not figured out a tank solution yet. since the bus is originally a tin top, it does not have a city water connection. i will be installing solar panels too so it wont be a problem running an electrical pump.
because of size and weight distribution i think it would be best to install one underneath the bus, pretty much where the lpg tank is, but on the drivers side.
after some research on here i saw one or two posts where this was recommended:
https://www.plastic-mart.com/category/33/rv-water-tanks
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/todd--heavy-duty-po...ecordNum=2
but i am curious if anyone has more information on how where to get it / how to install the tank / adding a solution for refilling the tank / adding a level sensor / etc etc
any information would be appreciated.
thanks! _________________ '73 bug
'77 bus |
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metahacker Samba Member

Joined: May 26, 2010 Posts: 901 Location: san.diego
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Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2022 11:23 pm Post subject: Re: tips for adding a fresh water tank underneath? |
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I would advise the following:
Under-frame tank:
REIMO EV 1302
60 Liters (~16 gallons)
https://www.reimo.com/en/camping-shop/motorhome-ca...k-vwt2-60l
I believe straps are intended for this
Available here:
https://www.serial-kombi.com/en-GB/camping-leisure...res-n37959
or, smaller
REIMO EV 1003
45 Liters (~12 gallons)
https://www.reimo.com/en/camping-shop/motorhome-ca...2-45l-4-04
I believe threaded rod is intended for this
Both designed to mount in the rocker area on a T2 or T3, taking zero interior space
Water pump:
SEAFLO-42
Diaphragm style pump (will effortlessly suck the water up hill)
Variable load-based output (most powerful pumps will "water hammer" quite loudly when you only crack the tap, unless you add a pressurized expansion tank....not really necessary with this feature)
http://www.seaflo.com/en-us/product/detail/12080.html
https://www.amazon.com/SEAFLO-Pressure-Diaphragm-Variable-Reduced/dp/B01CQ7DD0S/
Water filter:
The "typical" 50 micron strainer should be used on the pump inlet under all circumstances.
Additionally, I really like a standard Pentek 5" housing but with the special 0.5 micron filter ... that pump will easily push through this and the water that comes out is really nice
this....
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014C5D64/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045LXJ0I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I would recommend using stainless homebrew quick-disconnect fittings with the filter. It is also nice to use alternating male/female QDs on each end of the hose so that you can remove the filter and connect the lines together bypassing the filter (if it needs to be removed for whatever reason).
Ideally, you could also have a 12V UV LED disinfection stage... like the Acuva system... then you would have some extremely high quality potable water....
You can see a system put together as described here... it is essentially the Pentek parts I listed above with an Pearlaqua "Micro" ..
https://expeditionupfitter.com/products/stealth-water-filtration-by-guzzleh2o
nice configuration, bit expensive
they are using this UV system with the filter
https://threeuv.com/product/pearlaqua-micro/
you can save a couple hundred bucks piecing it together
Hose:
Clearflo Ag-47 Antimicrobial PVC tubing
This has an ionic silver integrated that makes the tubing not get gross and keeps the water clean.
https://www.newageindustries.com/products/tubing-hose/pvc/clearflo-ag-47-antimicrobial-pvc-tubing/
I believe you can get it from McMaster-Carr or GoWesty.
I also like something like this copper/glass check valve inside the tank on a removable pickup hose that connects to a cap or fitting.
https://www.amazon.com/Multi-Purpose-Original-Safe...amp;sr=8-6
Keep in mind that copper has antibacterial, antiviral and anti-fungal properties.
City Water / Fill:
If you want to have a "city water" hook up you can use this check tee to integrate it with your onboard water tank system:
http://old.attwoodmarine.com/store/product/Check-Tees
https://www.amazon.com/attwood-6115-1-Check-Tee-Combination/dp/B000BGM2U4/
And then if you plumb your 12V pump and city water inlet to that, the faucet can run off the check tee and it will pump from city water if you're on it, and fall back to the water tank when you're not...
I would recommend looking at a marine water fill...
https://www.google.com/search?q=marine+water+fill
You could also fill using a valve from a city water hookup... you could 'only' use that if you wanted..
that said, I like having an opening and being able to fill with jerry cans, funnels, bottled water, etc. if needed...and I also like to drop tablets of Ef-Chlor drinking water purification tables (which chlorinates enough to ensure your water is safe and stable in the tank and won't get nasty, but then the filter then pulls it back out) into the opening with every tank fill.
For a city water hookup, you could look at some marine type fittings ... or this common pressure regulated RV one:
https://www.amazon.com/attwood-6115-1-Check-Tee-Combination/dp/B000BGM2U4/
I think just having a large fillable tank is enough, to be honest... I don't really get a lot of use my city water hookup.
But it sure is darn cool when you do use it.... the whole care-free-ness of infinite water.........
Tank level
The most elegantly simple tank level sensor seems to be the MOPEKA... I haven't tried it
https://www.mopeka.com/product/mopeka-water-sensor-bottom-mount/
There are also arms and floats and other stuff you can install inside the tank... I'm not a huge fan of something that requires penetrating the tank.
There's also the "GobiusPro" system that is, I believe, Ultrasonic...you mount multiple level sensors....a little more complex than the Mopeka..but it does have a driver to run a standard gauge...so you can run a VDO marine water tank gauge connected to it...which is pretty cool IMO
Misc...
For the drain (grey water) I would run it to a garden hose thread fitting (a marine wash down fitting comes to mind, or a regular home depot hose bib)...so that you can connect a hose to it if you ever need to direct or capture it in something like a collapsible grey water tank.
I would recommend looking at Scandvik faucets...
If you want to get really fancy, this 12V 6L water heater from Australia is very interesting.... if you plumb it with a thermostatic premixing safety valve you can set the the tank thermostat to max (167F) and end up having about 5 gallons of shower water....
https://ausj.com.au/product/aqueous-water-heater-6l-12v/
It would be best ran with a Victron Smart Battery Protect in front of it... so you can set the voltage thresholds that you feel comfortable cycling on the water heater.... that way, it can sap up moments of "excess power" (such as solar or alternator charge)..and toggle on/off from your phone or via hardwired switch when needed manually
with that, I think the ultimate would be to have an additional sprayer hose in the rear spare tire well.... not unlike a Eurovan Winnebago.... but with a nice garden hose thread fitting and the spray head from something like TheWaterPort.com...
I believe the fittings you will want to use with those tanks are "bulkhead fittings" .. you will need a fill, pickup, a drain valve, and a vent
the fill is usually pretty large, drain and vent is typically 3/8", the pickup can be 3/8" (or 1/2" if you want)
the check tee takes i believe expects 3/8" (pump) and 1/2" (city), if you use that... |
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airschooled Air-Schooled

Joined: April 04, 2012 Posts: 13534 Location: West Coast, USA
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Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2022 1:44 am Post subject: Re: tips for adding a fresh water tank underneath? |
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Damn, and to think I get by with a 3-gallon jug in the back seat…
Thanks again for all the helpful links.
Robbie _________________ One-on-one tech help for your vintage Volkswagen:
www.airschooled.com
https://www.patreon.com/airschooled |
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VOLTWAGEN Samba Member

Joined: May 24, 2014 Posts: 119 Location: Perth, Australia
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Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2022 2:09 am Post subject: Re: tips for adding a fresh water tank underneath? |
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metahacker wrote: |
I would advise the following:
Under-frame tank:
REIMO EV 1302
60 Liters (~16 gallons)
https://www.reimo.com/en/camping-shop/motorhome-ca...k-vwt2-60l
I believe straps are intended for this
Available here:
https://www.serial-kombi.com/en-GB/camping-leisure...res-n37959
or, smaller
REIMO EV 1003
45 Liters (~12 gallons)
https://www.reimo.com/en/camping-shop/motorhome-ca...2-45l-4-04
I believe threaded rod is intended for this
Both designed to mount in the rocker area on a T2 or T3, taking zero interior space
Water pump:
SEAFLO-42
Diaphragm style pump (will effortlessly suck the water up hill)
Variable load-based output (most powerful pumps will "water hammer" quite loudly when you only crack the tap, unless you add a pressurized expansion tank....not really necessary with this feature)
http://www.seaflo.com/en-us/product/detail/12080.html
https://www.amazon.com/SEAFLO-Pressure-Diaphragm-Variable-Reduced/dp/B01CQ7DD0S/
Water filter:
The "typical" 50 micron strainer should be used on the pump inlet under all circumstances.
Additionally, I really like a standard Pentek 5" housing but with the special 0.5 micron filter ... that pump will easily push through this and the water that comes out is really nice
this....
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014C5D64/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045LXJ0I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I would recommend using stainless homebrew quick-disconnect fittings with the filter. It is also nice to use alternating male/female QDs on each end of the hose so that you can remove the filter and connect the lines together bypassing the filter (if it needs to be removed for whatever reason).
Ideally, you could also have a 12V UV LED disinfection stage... like the Acuva system... then you would have some extremely high quality potable water....
You can see a system put together as described here... it is essentially the Pentek parts I listed above with an Pearlaqua "Micro" ..
https://expeditionupfitter.com/products/stealth-water-filtration-by-guzzleh2o
nice configuration, bit expensive
they are using this UV system with the filter
https://threeuv.com/product/pearlaqua-micro/
you can save a couple hundred bucks piecing it together
Hose:
Clearflo Ag-47 Antimicrobial PVC tubing
This has an ionic silver integrated that makes the tubing not get gross and keeps the water clean.
https://www.newageindustries.com/products/tubing-hose/pvc/clearflo-ag-47-antimicrobial-pvc-tubing/
I believe you can get it from McMaster-Carr or GoWesty.
I also like something like this copper/glass check valve inside the tank on a removable pickup hose that connects to a cap or fitting.
https://www.amazon.com/Multi-Purpose-Original-Safe...amp;sr=8-6
Keep in mind that copper has antibacterial, antiviral and anti-fungal properties.
City Water / Fill:
If you want to have a "city water" hook up you can use this check tee to integrate it with your onboard water tank system:
http://old.attwoodmarine.com/store/product/Check-Tees
https://www.amazon.com/attwood-6115-1-Check-Tee-Combination/dp/B000BGM2U4/
And then if you plumb your 12V pump and city water inlet to that, the faucet can run off the check tee and it will pump from city water if you're on it, and fall back to the water tank when you're not...
I would recommend looking at a marine water fill...
https://www.google.com/search?q=marine+water+fill
You could also fill using a valve from a city water hookup... you could 'only' use that if you wanted..
that said, I like having an opening and being able to fill with jerry cans, funnels, bottled water, etc. if needed...and I also like to drop tablets of Ef-Chlor drinking water purification tables (which chlorinates enough to ensure your water is safe and stable in the tank and won't get nasty, but then the filter then pulls it back out) into the opening with every tank fill.
For a city water hookup, you could look at some marine type fittings ... or this common pressure regulated RV one:
https://www.amazon.com/attwood-6115-1-Check-Tee-Combination/dp/B000BGM2U4/
I think just having a large fillable tank is enough, to be honest... I don't really get a lot of use my city water hookup.
But it sure is darn cool when you do use it.... the whole care-free-ness of infinite water.........
Tank level
The most elegantly simple tank level sensor seems to be the MOPEKA... I haven't tried it
https://www.mopeka.com/product/mopeka-water-sensor-bottom-mount/
There are also arms and floats and other stuff you can install inside the tank... I'm not a huge fan of something that requires penetrating the tank.
There's also the "GobiusPro" system that is, I believe, Ultrasonic...you mount multiple level sensors....a little more complex than the Mopeka..but it does have a driver to run a standard gauge...so you can run a VDO marine water tank gauge connected to it...which is pretty cool IMO
Misc...
For the drain (grey water) I would run it to a garden hose thread fitting (a marine wash down fitting comes to mind, or a regular home depot hose bib)...so that you can connect a hose to it if you ever need to direct or capture it in something like a collapsible grey water tank.
I would recommend looking at Scandvik faucets...
If you want to get really fancy, this 12V 6L water heater from Australia is very interesting.... if you plumb it with a thermostatic premixing safety valve you can set the the tank thermostat to max (167F) and end up having about 5 gallons of shower water....
https://ausj.com.au/product/aqueous-water-heater-6l-12v/
It would be best ran with a Victron Smart Battery Protect in front of it... so you can set the voltage thresholds that you feel comfortable cycling on the water heater.... that way, it can sap up moments of "excess power" (such as solar or alternator charge)..and toggle on/off from your phone or via hardwired switch when needed manually
with that, I think the ultimate would be to have an additional sprayer hose in the rear spare tire well.... not unlike a Eurovan Winnebago.... but with a nice garden hose thread fitting and the spray head from something like TheWaterPort.com...
I believe the fittings you will want to use with those tanks are "bulkhead fittings" .. you will need a fill, pickup, a drain valve, and a vent
the fill is usually pretty large, drain and vent is typically 3/8", the pickup can be 3/8" (or 1/2" if you want)
the check tee takes i believe expects 3/8" (pump) and 1/2" (city), if you use that... |
Great post, I've been thinking about sticking some water under my bus, shame there isn't another 60L one for the other side to make 120L and take full advantage of the space |
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metahacker Samba Member

Joined: May 26, 2010 Posts: 901 Location: san.diego
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Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2022 7:26 am Post subject: Re: tips for adding a fresh water tank underneath? |
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"Volume 60 l for VW Type 2 made of anthracite PE, can be mounted underneath the vehicle on both sides (turn around longitudinal axis)"
looks like you can have a 32 gallon Taj Mahal type camping experience after all  |
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richparker Samba Member

Joined: November 24, 2011 Posts: 7552 Location: Durango, CO
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Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2022 7:51 am Post subject: Re: tips for adding a fresh water tank underneath? |
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airschooled wrote: |
Damn, and to think I get by with a 3-gallon jug in the back seat…
Thanks again for all the helpful links.
Robbie |
I will agree with that. That large storage container is overkill and will be pretty heavy when full.
We carry a 7 gallon jug, filled with tap water for doing dishes and washing up and a 1 gallon container of potable water. We use a lot less water now that we have the collapsible wash pan and drying rack for dishes.
I think a large propane cylinder would be more desirable then a large water storage container. In our camp we run a propane grill, propane stove, propane fire pit and a propane heater when cold. We use way more propane then water.
I also think a solar panel is overkill, I find charging the battery off the alternator works just fine. What are you running that you need that much juice? Maybe I don’t camp as much as the next guy, but I do go our for 1 to 2 weeks at a time and camp at many festivals every year. Two of the festivals we go to I'm parked for 6 days and 5 nights. We USB charge all our devices off the leisure battery, run USB powered Edison lights, the ARB Awning light and I have yet to kill the leisure battery. I guess if you are running a fridge you need more juice, but we’ve made the switch to a Yeti and keeping things cool isn’t an issue for us. I guess everyone has different needs a camp, I’m all about keeping it simple cause there’s a lot of other stuff to carry when camping for an extended period of time.
A bus loaded with gear for 3 people is heavy, I couldn’t imagine adding 150 to 300 lbs of water. _________________ __________
’71 Westy build
Adventure thread
’65 Deluxe Build |
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Globespotter Samba Member

Joined: February 16, 2012 Posts: 1785 Location: Newmarket, ON
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Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2022 9:54 am Post subject: Re: tips for adding a fresh water tank underneath? |
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I agree with Rich, and that's my experience too. I have a portable solar panel to charge my leisure battery, but I can't seem to drain it, even using the water pump, lights, inverter, usb charging, radio etc., so I haven't even used the solar charger. That setup is definitely amazing, but more for a full size trailer.
We use an icebox rather than a fridge - with a plastic bottle filled with water and frozen prior to a trip, it lasts a week no problem, and no mess, plus extra water when it melts.
We have a portable water container - I think it's about 2.5 gals and it sits in a box I built as a console in between the front seats, with a small pump that pumps the water to the sink.
We rarely run out, and usually we can refill it where we camp. _________________ 1977 Westfalia - October 2015 - Current
1971 Super Beetle - May 2012 - Current
1979 Westfalia - 1986-1991
1971 Super Beetle - 1977-1980
1971 SB Survivor Story: https://globespotter.com/
Road Trip Thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=511800&highlight=
My 77 Westy Thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=647114&highlight=
http://vw-mplate.com/mcode.php?lang=EN&id=30990
https://vw-type2-id.xyz/mplate/72067382 |
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Globespotter Samba Member

Joined: February 16, 2012 Posts: 1785 Location: Newmarket, ON
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metahacker Samba Member

Joined: May 26, 2010 Posts: 901 Location: san.diego
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Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2022 1:35 pm Post subject: Re: tips for adding a fresh water tank underneath? |
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two 60L tanks full would weigh a total of approx 265 lbs .. not much more than one Dad Bod riding in the driver's seat .. from a load carrying perspective, the ideal place to keep water is under the vehicle in a length-wise enclosure, as the OP intends, where it has the lowest center of gravity and will minimize weight transfer sloshing in cornering ..
water is, generally, the limiting factor for staying off grid .. it's always the thing i wish i had more of .. either camping or just driving around or using my bus the way i use it every single day .. as a rolling living room or as a "WFH" office .. all usages that are made practical by having well-designed means of carry, operation and delivery for water, refrigeration and electrical ... solar allows perpetual power while stationary .. which alleviates the need for ice .. a propane tank on a bus is typically the equivalent of 12 green bottles .. so there's no shortage there even with an extremely long period off-grid .. so, again, it comes back to water.
im pretty sure the man is asking about creating a nice fresh water system on his bus .. not asking to be convinced that his ideas are foolish and not worthy of consideration, and that he should abort building himself a really nice camper with well though out electrical and water systems (things that, ironically, have been considered typical of any nice "van conversion" since the 1970s)
while extremely low-tech configurations have their charm for occasional use.... one would be hard pressed to find real advantages after spending serious time in a bus with a working fridge/freezer that runs 365 days per year, and water that flows like a house... an onboard forced air heater... and batteries that stay charged perpetually... and a cooktop that requires nothing to operate other than opening a lid, opening a valve and sparking it... i don't think there would be much interest being FORCED to deal with ice chests, jugs of water and white gas stoves on tables ... (not that any of those are a bad thing, they are fun, too, in their own way...and have their place even with a swank camper build.. )
ironically, a typical late riviera or euro market westfalia ALREADY came with all the fancy things... (yes perhaps not solar but onboard 120v battery chargers available on both variants at some point... and yes everything else - water tank, electric water pump, a real fridge/freezer, even built-in propane heat, yes even on a westie...as i said-- euro market...the euro ones even had crumpet toasters on their propane stove, etc.)..
in more simple terms, here's why you need all that shit:
Link
that's a typical day in my bus...and, also, ice cream and cold delicious beverages....always there and ready to go, like the sink/stove, not just for my special weekend.
i didnt need to go to a store and buy ice, i didnt need to "set up a camp site".. no need to lug heavy/awkward objects to complete my task.... my trunk is empty.
i just open the fridge....turn the tap on.....fire my stove... and live my life
that's how my bus worked back in 1978
and sure i have made some incremental improvements to functionality but the configuration is basically the same as it was back in the day... nowadays adding a portable solar panel for long camps is cheap and easy and makes the fridge go forever. if you use things like a CPAP they can also be the difference between being able to camp or not....
so lay off, let the man enjoy his bus and do something nice
maybe he wants to put rear discs on it too, no need to spend 4 pages of posts telling him that the stock brakes are so great (news flash: brand new coming off the lift they can post a nice 60-0 stop distance, but they really aren't that great...i have daily driven buses for a long time and the drums don't stay in adjustment on their own)
we are bay window people
bay windows are awesome
and the PEOPLE in this forum are awesome
WE CAN DO BETTER
"you don't need that." --> "wow, that's [cool/ interesting/ inspiring]!"
"i don't see the point" --> "i haven't used one before. what do you like about it?"
"what do you need all that for" is always a hoot, i get it
it, however, does not promote productive conversation or advance the collective knowledge and capability of the community antagonizing people working on stuff that, ironically, vanagon people do/talk about every single day
and yes, refrigerators, sinks with taps flowin' like marfkkn waterfalls and... yes, even inverters and stoves, do exist and they are fucking marvelous.
live your best life
no need to accept anything less than microRV level functionality
and you can even maintain originality when doing so |
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Globespotter Samba Member

Joined: February 16, 2012 Posts: 1785 Location: Newmarket, ON
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metahacker Samba Member

Joined: May 26, 2010 Posts: 901 Location: san.diego
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Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2022 2:32 pm Post subject: Re: tips for adding a fresh water tank underneath? |
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That's bullshit.
First of all, Buses came with that shit stock.
More importantly, The dude started a thread called "tips for adding a fresh water tank underneath" and mentioned his solar panel...
Posting passive aggressive disrespectful stuff saying his ideas are worthless or foolish is just obnoxious and unhelpful.
It's not sharing opinions... it's a weird cultural perversion that has come to define a lot of the happenings in this particular forum.
It makes it extremely difficult to have a productive conversation.
I've observed it many times... and spoken to many people who say they won't post in this forum anymore because of it.
That type of interaction is definitely not the hallmark of places like the Vanagon forum... where posting the exact same thing, a productive conversation would have ensued. Similarly, you aren't going to have a bunch of people tell you to put a 1500 single port in instead when you ask about a serious build on the performance forum. Yet, here we are... dude just wants to have a water tank on his bus.
I put my money where my mouth is and made my contribution above.
It took significant time and effort to post and it was well-meaning;
it reflected years of real world experience and research.
If I was the OP, absent said post, I would not want to come back and ask more questions just to be peppered with insulting and irrelevant conjecture.
Similarly, I question whether my own time making such posts is wasted.
Threads that could be full of useful information just get taken over and flooded with garbage drivel that provides no substantial value.
That's not good and not healthy for our community.
That's why I felt compelled to speak up. I don't want to just sit and watch and do nothing.. or just withdraw to lurker status or just stop coming here.
I'm not calling anyone anything. I honestly think the people in this forum are generally terrific people... all the specific people who posted on this thread included... What I'm getting at, however, is that we should check ourselves and our culture...
All I'm saying is: We as a community can do a lot better.
PS yeah, I hear you. It's a pretty stark response for just 2 posts in basically shooting the shit (and I am really sorry for that, and I apologize -- none of it is about you or anyone in particular.. and I mean that)... it's not really so much about this thread, but just in general. It's all of our responsibility to be stewards for a more positive productive loving Bay window Samba world.. one thread at a time. I believe I speak for many people who have felt bullied off the forums when I say that... |
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richparker Samba Member

Joined: November 24, 2011 Posts: 7552 Location: Durango, CO
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Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2022 4:36 pm Post subject: Re: tips for adding a fresh water tank underneath? |
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Metahacker, we hear you loud and clear. Technology is awesome! But so is the simplicity of a bus. Space is is a commodity in a bus and one should think of that as well. Personally I travel with my wife and son. Let me tell you that once we pack the cabinets full of our clothes, there isn’t much room left in the bus for bedding and all the camping gear. Maybe you don’t carry other people or camp gear (ie:chairs, tables, BB guns, child cot, fire pit, stove, grill, ect), but once you add all that stuff another 300 lbs (water plus containers and mounting brackets) seems like a lot to me. I’m not a purist, the members in this forum can attest to that. But, I am a VW fanatic, my moves are calculated to provide the best outcome and even if that seems like it’s too much to my wife.
We are not trying to deter him from his decision. We are just Sharing our experiences to show him that there are alternatives to spending all that money and wasting all of that weight when traveling in a bus. I do most of my traveling in the southwest. I can get water almost everywhere, but I can’t get propane at midnight on a Wednesday everywhere. So, you might enjoy 300 gallons of water at your disposal, where I would be for 60 pounds of propane at mine.
Robbie’s water set up is nice and simplistic. I like it, but personally I wouldn’t want to give up that interior space. I like it and it’s well thought out, but not for me.
Different strokes for different folks. _________________ __________
’71 Westy build
Adventure thread
’65 Deluxe Build |
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Shonandb  Samba Member

Joined: January 12, 2019 Posts: 2087 Location: Vancouver, BC
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Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2022 4:46 pm Post subject: Re: tips for adding a fresh water tank underneath? |
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metahacker wrote: |
two 60L tanks full would weigh a total of approx 265 lbs .. not much more than one Dad Bod riding in the driver's seat .. from a load carrying perspective, the ideal place to keep water is under the vehicle in a length-wise enclosure, as the OP intends, where it has the lowest center of gravity and will minimize weight transfer sloshing in cornering ..
in more simple terms, here's why you need all that shit:
Link
that's
live your best life
so |
Love this!
I had about 1500 extra poorly distributed pounds in/on my 73 panel on a 1.5 year, 25,000 mile trip across/around NA and it didn't matter! Do what makes you happy. It gives others something to talk about!
_________________ *******************************
76 Westy with a 2.5L Subaru SOHC + Vanagon (010) Automatic Transaxle
Build & Trip Thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=758760
Previous 1973 Panel Bus:
Click to view image
Last edited by Shonandb on Thu Mar 24, 2022 8:48 am; edited 2 times in total |
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richparker Samba Member

Joined: November 24, 2011 Posts: 7552 Location: Durango, CO
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Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2022 5:21 pm Post subject: Re: tips for adding a fresh water tank underneath? |
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I’m down with weight. I actually set my bus up for that. But, one needs to calculate how the weight is Distributed and whet it if used for. _________________ __________
’71 Westy build
Adventure thread
’65 Deluxe Build |
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Globespotter Samba Member

Joined: February 16, 2012 Posts: 1785 Location: Newmarket, ON
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honkadori Samba Member

Joined: September 02, 2020 Posts: 23 Location: los angeles
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Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2022 9:48 pm Post subject: Re: tips for adding a fresh water tank underneath? |
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lol!
@metahacker thanks for the super detailed reply! thats exactly what i was looking for.
and also thanks for all the other input. _________________ '73 bug
'77 bus
Last edited by honkadori on Wed Mar 23, 2022 10:49 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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VOLTWAGEN Samba Member

Joined: May 24, 2014 Posts: 119 Location: Perth, Australia
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Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2022 10:07 pm Post subject: Re: tips for adding a fresh water tank underneath? |
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I travel off-grid here in Australia a lot
For longer trips I tow a trailer it has:
180w solar panel
150 amp lithium battery
1200w invertor
fixed 82L water tank
minimum of 2 x 20L jeryy/water cans
sink/tap etc
62L fridge
I'm looking at more options not to take the trailer and just take the bus
In the bus I've already got a 15L fridge between the seats run off a 75 amp lithium battery |
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Abscate  Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2014 Posts: 24046 Location: NYC/Upstate/ROW
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Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2022 3:38 am Post subject: Re: tips for adding a fresh water tank underneath? |
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From a cruising sailor
You don’t want to carry any more water than you can use in about one week. It will grow splooge and shinola , especially in warm sunny LA. You can treat it , of course, but the best fit water systems for drinking supply need to be emptied and cleaned easily.
Remember a 150 kg tank needs a support structure for 500-600kg to accommodate g force and slosh _________________ 🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🍊 🍊 🍊 |
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VOLTWAGEN Samba Member

Joined: May 24, 2014 Posts: 119 Location: Perth, Australia
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Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2022 6:18 pm Post subject: Re: tips for adding a fresh water tank underneath? |
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Abscate wrote: |
From a cruising sailor
You don’t want to carry any more water than you can use in about one week. It will grow splooge and shinola , especially in warm sunny LA. You can treat it , of course, but the best fit water systems for drinking supply need to be emptied and cleaned easily.
Remember a 150 kg tank needs a support structure for 500-600kg to accommodate g force and slosh |
Also a sailor racing & cruising, I would disagree about only 1 week
Am also looking more into these - http://www.blubag.com.au/
The water will last longer than in tanks as there is no air getting in when the water is used |
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metahacker Samba Member

Joined: May 26, 2010 Posts: 901 Location: san.diego
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Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2022 9:30 am Post subject: Re: tips for adding a fresh water tank underneath? |
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the big tank is ~ 130 lbs
not 150 kg (330 lbs)
a stock vanagon westy tank is ~ 110 lbs
they are both made of plastic
the vanagon tanks simply sits in a plywood cupboard with a single metal strap (#29 below) locationg it, to keep from fatiguing the fittings
similarly, bay westie tanks sit in wood cabinets.
600 kg in force sloshing? 1,320 lbs? nonsense.
a bus pulls a 0.7x G skidpad rating .. so it would be < 100 lbs
much less force than someone stepping on it while climbing into a pop top
the reimo under-frame tanks sit surrounded by the vehicle frame on 3 sides
reimo is german and the top camper van product company in europe
nothing about what they are offering for T2 water tanks is misguided
21 - 32 gallon tanks are typical on sprinter conversions and are mounted and used without much fuss. some just held in the spare tire spot with some thin metal bar.
here are some Vanagon guys working with under frame tanks...same ones as above.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9237808
you can see that the dude who is the NAHT high top (AdventureWagen derivative) dealer himself, a cool dude who is also a proprietor of a very detailed and complete Vanagon hot water system.... simply uses heavy duty rubber straps to hold the tank.
you might also notice that there are no people jumping onto the thread to tip the scales into naysaying, turning it to shit with multiple people piling on to tell them that they "don't need it"
and maybe my time on a B-32 sailboat racing team doesn't provide much street cred in this regard (unlike a cruiser we had no tank), i can say that the water in a tank can stay good for a long time.. if you put some Ef-Chlor in there it will last a VERY long time and the tanks and lines never seem to build up any crud..... i use it in every fill and mine are all spotless after ~3 years of daily use....IMO the issue is when people have tanks that remain mostly (but not totally) empty for periods of time sitting in disuse.... IMO ideal is full all the time with a little chlorination and a really good filter... or, alternatively, occasional use with rapid consumption followed by storage with a properly drained and dried tank/lines.... but that's pretty difficult to actually achieve TBH
i sent a sample of water in for drinking water analysis and it was rated as "excellent" - TDS was extremely low... 0-50 range ... the water tastes great, it might as well be motherfucking evian
VOLTWAGEN wrote: |
180w solar panel
150 amp lithium battery
1200w invertor
fixed 82L water tank
minimum of 2 x 20L jeryy/water cans
sink/tap etc
62L fridge
I'm looking at more options not to take the trailer and just take the bus
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if you aren't in need of an under-vehicle propane tank, it would seem that carrying 120L (up from the 82L on the trailer... basically matching the 122L with the jerry cans) on the belly of the bus is very easy and practical with the Reimo 1302 tanks.
you can also easily put 2 x 100Ah LiFePO4 batteries (such as the Aolithium bluetooth) in the engine bay and just bridge them together (and use a voltage cut unit off or manual battery switch to prevent full discharge...no need for a split charge wasting one of them just sitting there doing nothing), up to about 180Ah effective from the 150Ah on the trailer. honestly, there's room to fit 300-400Ah in the engine bay if you get resourceful (particularly, if you are OK with modifying/removing the spare tire hump)...inverters are an easy enough affair...the stock camper interiors lend themselves well to the use of a transfer switch relay and inverter so you can have pass thru power from the exterior hook up.....the Victron MultiPlus is an excellent choice to just do it all in one shot - inverter/charger/transfer switch
i use a Vitrifrigo C62IXD4-F in the original Riviera fridge location in my Bus...also 62 liters...so having that inside the bus, as well, should be no problem with the right unit/cabinet.
Regarding weight...
You might say we like to carry some stuff on the Bus, too. In this pic, there's also a bicycle rack in front with multiple bikes. We climbed ~6,000 ft into the mountains from sea level and did about ~1,500 miles on this trip. There were two kids and two adults in the car, a ton of stuff inside, a full water tank, a 62L fridge/freezer packed to the brim and a small cooler. There was probably about 200lbs of just wood for the smoker/fire pit as well. The smoker is made of steel and it's not light, neither is the chromoly arm it swings on.
The bus didn't care and neither should you. As always with a Bus, just make sure your air-fuel ratios and timing are correct and everything will be fine. A little rented time on a dyno or with your own WBo2 getting your fuel right will make the bus last a very long time carrying any load .... a bus with factory coil overs is rated for 1.25 metric tonnes that's the better part of 3,000 lbs of cargo... the book will tell you 4,960 lbs GVWR ... which means a minimum cargo capacity of approx 1 US ton without any fancy rear suspension stuff (Gabriel HiJacker air coil overs are only aroud 100 bux btw)..... it won't notice 260 lbs of water if you want to be crazy and mount twin 16 gallon tanks, in either configuration ...
@Shanondb you look like you know how to have a good time
Richparker wrote: |
Metahacker, we hear you loud and clear. Technology is awesome! But so is the simplicity of a bus. |
Camper buses come with sinks and water tanks stock. Many of them have electric pumps as well.
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Space is is a commodity in a bus and one should think of that as well. |
Nothing is more space efficient than under-vehicle water tanks, and it's the ideal location to place weight.
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Personally I travel with my wife and son. Let me tell you that once we pack the cabinets full of our clothes, there isn’t much room left in the bus for bedding and all the camping gear. Maybe you don’t carry other people or camp gear (ie:chairs, tables, BB guns, child cot, fire pit, stove, grill, ect), but once you add all that stuff another 300 lbs (water plus containers and mounting brackets) seems like a lot to me. I’m not a purist, the members in this forum can attest to that. But, I am a VW fanatic, my moves are calculated to provide the best outcome and even if that seems like it’s too much to my wife. |
I'm with you, brother. I think we're totally on the same page here. I also have a family and take all of that (minus the BB guns... might need to look into that, sounds like fun).
To me, the ultimately designed/thought-out Bus setup means you can drink water, wash your hands, store and prepare food...sleep and wash up....all at the drop of a hat... yet you have an empty trunk, just some items stowed in the cabinets and cargo rack of the camper. Well integrated systems let you enjoy all the luxury of a camper conversion all the time, too...without "setting up" or lugging stuff. A Euro market Westie already has everything built in... real fridge and propane heater included....even the US ones have fridges and electric water pumps by the time the SO76 Berlin came out.
Honestly, I think that the reality is that most Bus people simply just don't know anything about van conversion sub-systems. (unlike Vanagon people). It's ironic since the Bay bus is really the 1.0 of modern #vanlife but most owners don't know anything about a #vanlife style build
I go to multiple campouts a year that have hundreds of buses at them...
I see what's going on.....a buncha dudes who have ripped out an early Bay westie sink cabinets so they can keep a super expensive yeti cooler there....
and a bunch of guys with Westfalia Berlin interiors that have a sink sitting there that doesn't work.....
and yes, both of them carry jugs of water instead... ironically, since even the early Bay holds 7.5 gallons in a built-in tank.
sooooo many bay window camper model owners at the campouts don't have working original water setups..... the best i see is typically someone with a late bay draining their jug into their sink (they tend to keep the cabinet in place since it provides so much storage). and ripping out the cabinet on an early bay seems almost like a norm in many circles....
but then you go check out some dude in a Vanagon and he's living in the taj mahal in the lap of luxury....taps flowing, burners burning...even inverters going and propane heaters blowing warm air through the freezing night.
it's interesting... conversely, Australian and UK (and most of western Europe, honestly) people seem to also know what's up .. they have super KILLER setups in their BUSES ..... it's just the North American people who keep their head in the sand on this stuff for some reason, preaching about lugging jugs and stoves
People should stop destroying their original camper interiors ripping stuff out and carrying jugs and coolers. They should learn how to make use of what's available, yes, like these Reimo water tanks, the super nice 12V pumps and 12V compressors that are out there. That's what Vanagon people are doing - learning, as a community, and keeping their stuff looking original but working better than ever.
Something like this isn't much more than a Yeti..and uses a Danfoss-Secop compressor, the best in the world for years (hence why LG has been trying to destroy their patent positions in Europe)... one of those and a small solar panel means a fridge that can run 24-7-365.
https://www.serial-kombi.com/en-GB/camping-leisure...in-n324823
telling people pursuing a working, well-thought-out setup that it's "wasteful" and then manhandling jugs of water seems kind of silly.
A lot of the same people are rolling around with a $500 Yeti cooler...which is interesting.....
A nice tank and pump are around $ 200 BTW
Sorry if this makes anyone mad (it shouldn't)
I am not trying to say that destroying the originality of a VW bus camper interior and carrying a heavy (and perhaps expensive) cooler and unwieldy water containers makes anyone a bad person
I think that's fine if that's what one wants to do.. it's easier in some ways...
(BTW you can also do both at the same time) |
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