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Make Air-cooled Engine Compartment Air-tight
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daroota
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2019 4:54 am    Post subject: Re: Make Air-cooled Engine Compartment Air-tight Reply with quote

Temps you want should be under 400f.

At 430, is when aluminum starts to warp, and it's especially important on how you bring the temperatures back down again. At 450+ it is critical, slowly bring the temperatures back down otherwise if you bring it down too quickly the engine may definitely Warp. You may cause other damage like blowing out seals, damaging rings, Pistons, recessing valves, or worse.

Typical temperatures are about 290 Fahrenheit to 400. This also brings into the equation just how accurate a cylinder head temperature gauge is as well. O have a vdo that I've had a few years now, it shows me about 48f hotter on the gauge. I used an ir thermometer and check it now and then and idle, warm and hot.
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fiftytakedowns
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2019 9:53 pm    Post subject: Re: Make Air-cooled Engine Compartment Air-tight Reply with quote

What type of temperature drops could I expect after performing all these sealing tips.

My van doesn't run too hot, but I haven't climbed the mountain yet... Whats the CHT danger zone?
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daroota
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 21, 2019 10:36 am    Post subject: Re: Make Air-cooled Engine Compartment Air-tight Reply with quote

nunzio82 wrote:
If I use RTV high temp sealant as another poster suggested will or can it cause any hot spots on my engine? Should I avoid using it in the engine bay?


Check Out VersiMould. You can make a nice seal out of these for around the engine tin. Like for the cooling tubes and oil filler
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nunzio82
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2019 2:15 pm    Post subject: Re: Make Air-cooled Engine Compartment Air-tight Reply with quote

If I use RTV high temp sealant as another poster suggested will or can it cause any hot spots on my engine? Should I avoid using it in the engine bay?
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sandoz
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2015 7:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

De nada, glad I could give you a visual....

I am also befuddled as to why this part is not reproduced, seems simple enough?!
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a2d2
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2015 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sandoz wrote:
Pouring rain out and I don't have a picture of one installed.... Hope a couple of pics of one out will do. It isn't easy to install with all the tin in place but it can be done....


Thanks for the pics, very helpful. I think I can picture how that fits in the tin so now I just have to search for something similar to modify.

Looks easy enough to reproduce, strange that no one's done it yet.
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Last edited by a2d2 on Mon Apr 27, 2015 1:48 am; edited 1 time in total
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sandoz
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2015 3:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pouring rain out and I don't have a picture of one installed.... Hope a couple of pics of one out will do. It isn't easy to install with all the tin in place but it can be done....
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sandoz
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2015 3:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Mark70baja
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2015 11:01 am    Post subject: Thanks. Reply with quote

Getting our 82 out and on the road. Hadn't even thought of filling all the holes, of which there are many. It's on the list. Learn something new and vital every time I visit this group. And I'm very happy to see so many Air Cooled posts. Thanks again.
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a2d2
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2015 10:46 am    Post subject: Re: Make Air-cooled Engine Compartment Air-tight Reply with quote

reluctantartist wrote:
Heater tube:
The heater tube seal is NLA as well as the filler tub e seal and a few others. So you will have to get good at using RTV or something else to make one. This is what I did for my heater tube (luckily my oil filler seal is still good)


Does anyone have a picture of the oil filler seal in use? I have never seen one and a search just gave me a lot of fuel filler seals.

Need to fabricate something here and am hoping to keep it looking "stock-ish" and removable so would prefer to not use RTV.

Thanks!
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ryecatcher
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 9:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just did my seal, which I got from Bus Depot. Not too hard a job, just a bit painstaking at times. A one hour, much-cursing job at most. I combined it with installing new air filter an cleaning off some grounds at the same time.
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reluctantartist
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 5:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since summer is well upon us and I see newer airheads on the forum I thought I would bump this up again so we can keep the airheads running happily down the road.
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VWinVT
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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2014 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used that pipe insulation. I used the rubber type, not the foam, as the rubber is more pliable and forgiving. It works VERY well to fill the gaps. I have it pressed in place right now. We are in the process of moving. Once we settle, I will use contact cement to secure it to the body, as it will work itself free after about a week of daily driving (makes a great moving van)!!
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MarkWard
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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2014 9:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is what I am talking about.

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You can see the slit where you could fit it of the sheet metal lip.
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ryecatcher
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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2014 7:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Re: Duct tape: fwiw, I've heard not to use duct tape, as it can loosen and get sucked up into the fan which creates an whole mess of problems.
I've waiting on my seal to come in for a month. It seems everyone is out of it or back-ordered...
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MarkWard
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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2014 7:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For a temporary seal, you might try swinging by the hardware store. On the race cars we use water heater hose insulation between the shroud and the radiator. It is gray and has a slit with adhesive running down the seam. I bet you could use that and it would fill the gap quiet neatly. Duct tape will leave a glue residue and will not stick to anything that is not perfectly clean. If you use the insulation, post a picture if it works.
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2014 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobody cares what the engine compartment temp is.

The only temps you care about are the cylinder head temps...

http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=...prd347.htm

and the oil temperature....

http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=...prd326.htm

Oil temperature is normally sampled at the "taco plate" as it is easy to do.....



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onemat
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PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2014 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

While I wait for my new seal to come from Bus Depot, I'm going to use duct tape between the old seal and the sides of the engine well. I hate the stuff but it will do for a few weeks. Someone in this thread mentioned a wireless temperature gauge for inside the engine compartment from Autozone. It seems to me that it's not going to give you true engine temperature. Has any figured out roughly what a is a good engine compartment temperature is? Another words, if the compartment is 200 degrees what is the engine temperature? WOuld using this kind of temperature gauge be a waste of my money?

Thanks,

Matt
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 01, 2013 1:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That black and red wire in the picture is for a cylinder head temperature gauge. Do you have one installed on your dash somewhere? If you do then you need to get a new sender that is usually installed under a spark plug.
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daroota
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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 8:16 pm    Post subject: Re: Make Air-cooled Engine Compartment Air-tight Reply with quote

Sorry to revive a old thread, I'm just curious about the wire in this photo of yours. (see below) In the center of the firewall there's a hole in mine above the weather seal, and that red/black connector comes out of it, but mine isn't connected to anything, and I haven't figured out where it goes. (the wire on mine has the connector, and it's a brown ground, and yellow)

Thanks

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