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VR6 Conversion: Can we make this thing fit.
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wjjr
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

VR6 vanagon wrote:
I don't feel the loss of space where I raised the deck lid is such a huge issue. I think I can raise my entire bench seat to the height of the new deck lid and everything will be flat and level.
That will be a winter project when it's a bit cooler down here, but I will let you all know how it works. Fropm what I can see, it will work perfectly.


@ VR6 Vanagon

I am in Tampa and would love to check out your conversion, please PM if that's cool, think I will be working in Palm Harbor late next week. Thnx, Wayne
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VR6 vanagon
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 4:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't feel the loss of space where I raised the deck lid is such a huge issue. I think I can raise my entire bench seat to the height of the new deck lid and everything will be flat and level.
That will be a winter project when it's a bit cooler down here, but I will let you all know how it works. Fropm what I can see, it will work perfectly.
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 1:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good to hear it's back up and running again Rob Smile

It's interesting to know that stock 3rd and 4th gears (along with the rest of the gearbox) will take 190bhp and 180ftlbs and live.

I don't think anything which needed replacing in your gearbox was as a result of the engine conversion (having chatted to Aidan), just the normal parts which suffer. Also.. going along with the theory that stock ratios will work on other petrol engines with bigger tyre/wheel combos seem to work.

Sorry you had to find out a day before you went on holiday!! Hope you had a good time anyway.

MG
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slobbo
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 2:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well just had the gearbox rebuilt in mine and seems I was fed a load of smelly stuff regarding the gearbox. It is a bog standard 2.1 petrol gearbox
- AAN code with 4.86 final drive. built 10/12/85
- 7 teeth on pinion and 34 on the crown
- .85 4th gear
The box now has oiling plates in and will hopefully las a very long time.
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casey79westfalia
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 9:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well ground clearence seems to be the main problem. My garage is not tall enough to accomidate anymore then the stock height. I have driven a good amount of vr's and they just run beautifully. I think I am going to go the tdi route as it just seems to work out better in the long run. I have considered the 1.8t as well but think that would cause more headache then the tdi.
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 3:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thummmper wrote:
okay, so you have 700.00 worth of 3+4 gears, super diff, probably sold you bearings out of fear...limited slip or locker too? 2k, 2.5k$
or 1.5k$. for a trans you will burn.
you could space the cabin up or the suspension down to build more engine room. not easy trashing your CG.
Why are you in love with this engine again? theres a lot of large engines that deliver more power--most of them won't work, including this one.
my pal is struggling with the gp 10 bostig...struggling with the obvious flaws in equipment selection. economics dominated the list, and dimensions and thoroughness of kit fell dead last. It's so bad he just started working on it again after dropping it in november. It dont fit!


Todd, everyone to their own.

As far as I know, Slobbo bought the van with this converison already fitted and the gearbox work done so it doesn't make sense to pull something out which works and spend even more money going for something else.

I think it's a great conversion which, although doesn't fit maybe as well as some other engines, still provides plenty of torque and power for a heavy van.

Nice to see you Slobbo Smile

MG
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thummmper
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 2:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

okay, so you have 700.00 worth of 3+4 gears, super diff, probably sold you bearings out of fear...limited slip or locker too? 2k, 2.5k$
or 1.5k$. for a trans you will burn.
you could space the cabin up or the suspension down to build more engine room. not easy trashing your CG.
Why are you in love with this engine again? theres a lot of large engines that deliver more power--most of them won't work, including this one.
my pal is struggling with the gp 10 bostig...struggling with the obvious flaws in equipment selection. economics dominated the list, and dimensions and thoroughness of kit fell dead last. It's so bad he just started working on it again after dropping it in november. It dont fit!
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dredward
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 8:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

slobbo you have a nice van!!!!!!!!!! I pondered the vr6. When i was decideing on what to do the vr6 was at th top of my list. I even pondered the 3.2 v6 from a wrecked r32. I went with the 1.8t mainly cause it was done legally before me in California and i found a great deal on a 1.8t... Again good job, best of all it a VW Very Happy Cool
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slobbo
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 1:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi everyone. The Blue beast is mine. The engine doesn't fit in the hole and can't see how you could without the sump getting destroyed every time you went over a speed bump. Not great on a Syncro. The mounts in mine are huge though. I reckon the one on the NS is 6" in length. The engine lid has been custom made and the useable space around it is limited. I use it for the jack and tools.

I had the more common roof rack front on the roof but it had the rack cut out to enable the sunroof to open. I swapped the roof section with later one to improve economy. I got about 18mpg (on the motorway) out of it The new roof section improved the situation by a mpg or 2.

The engine performance is fabulous. You can take it up to the redline and it still has more to go. It cruises effortlessly at 70 mph. I try not to thrash it though as I know I will end up destroying the box.

It has had the gearbox rebuilt with stronger 3rd and 4th at different ratios. Don't know the ratios but I could probably work it out. If you put one of these in without the modifications and strengthening I reckon the gearbox would implode. It needs the ratio change to make it cruise at the right revs.

I have put AVO adjustable dampers in the back which has helped with the handling. I found the stock ones were a bit soft and the van wallowed a bit. The engine is a heavy beast as it has a cast iron block (I believe) and doesn't help the handling.

The engine protrudes considerably in mine. So much so the interior was modified to fit. The rock and roll bed is higher. Not enough that it looks weird or causes problems. The interior in mine is a custom job and is the best interior from a use perspective I have seen and used (and I have had a few vans).

I have more info and pictures on www.aircooledcrazy.com . If you want some more specific pictures let me know.
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James 93SLC
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 8:59 am    Post subject: Re: oil pans Reply with quote

SyncroGhia wrote:
.....looking at the photo below, the sump on a VR6 isn't the problem as it's almost inline with the bottom of the gearbox.. it's everything on the top which gets in the way.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


MG


That pic doesn't show the other end of the pan nearest the back, which does drop down another 3 inches or so below the trans. That's the part that reduces clearance.

djbside wrote:
Why couldn't you lower the engine at the mounts to get the Deck Lid to sit flat... Then either shorten (custom) the Oil Pan or Raise the suspension to gain the lift back?


Custom low-pro oil pans on the VR have been a long searched for holy grail among the custom VW crowd for years. Guys that like to run their cars super low with a VR6 are always smashing pan. The problem is the oil pick-up tube for the oil pump and finding a way to shorten it. It is a cast aluminum piece that can't be easily shortened or modified.

I've seen one design for a dry-sump system, but the guy had spent mad $$$$$$$ Shocked
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djbside
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 8:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why couldn't you lower the engine at the mounts to get the Deck Lid to sit flat... Then either shorten (custom) the Oil Pan or Raise the suspension to gain the lift back?

Maybe a combo of all 3 things... Lower the motor, shorten the Pan, lengthen the suspension...
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SyncroGhia
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 7:39 am    Post subject: Re: oil pans Reply with quote

J Charlton wrote:
If oil pans are the issue in road clearance, has anyone used a dry sump solution with a conversion? I've often wondered about this but I don't recall anyone writing about using it.


That would help with a Subaru engine but looking at the photo below, the sump on a VR6 isn't the problem as it's almost inline with the bottom of the gearbox.. it's everything on the top which gets in the way.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


MG
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 6:48 am    Post subject: oil pans Reply with quote

If oil pans are the issue in road clearance, has anyone used a dry sump solution with a conversion? I've often wondered about this but I don't recall anyone writing about using it.
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 6:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SyncroGhia wrote:
They're supposed to good for more mpg. I had one on Limey when I first fitted the roof but wanted the more storage space and was prepared to sacriface the mpg.

MG


Any idea what the improvement in mileage would be with this other front peice? I don't utilize my luggage area and was considering making a flat lid to hopefully improve the airflow in that area. If I come across a spare, I would consider modifying one and making a mold. The one pictured still has an abrupt edge where the pop top closes. I think something slicker could be made. Thank you
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James 93SLC
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 6:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

D Clymer wrote:
I think the only way a VR6 would fit cleanly into a Vanagon would be to lay it over like VW did with the diesel inline four. As mentioned, this would require a custom oil pan and possibly a custom intake manifold, but it would allow this great engine to fit the available space in the Vanagon engine bay. Anyone want to tackle this one?

David


Yes, that's the only viable solution I could see maybe working. Besides the need for a custom oil pan, I would begin to become concerned with the oil return path up at the cams when angled over on its side. The oil runs down the cam chain side to lubricate the chain and gears. Flopped over, the oil might not distribute correctly.
I think the only way to answer this is to mock it up and see just how far over the VR needs to be flopped. I'm betting it's at least 45 degrees or more.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 21, 2010 9:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A few years ago I saw a Vanagon in a local wrecking yard with a VR6 installed below the stock engine cover. The oil pan was literally only a few inches off the ground. The project had been abandoned and sold off to the wrecking yard, so obviously the previous owner had run out of good ideas.

I think the only way a VR6 would fit cleanly into a Vanagon would be to lay it over like VW did with the diesel inline four. As mentioned, this would require a custom oil pan and possibly a custom intake manifold, but it would allow this great engine to fit the available space in the Vanagon engine bay. Anyone want to tackle this one?

David
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 21, 2010 6:25 pm    Post subject: space Reply with quote

I think that the entire conversation of whether or not to raise a deck lid really should be viewed in terms of the actual amount of space lost in doing so. The approximate math is this - if we say that the rear deck area is roughly 4 feet by 2 1/2 feet that gives 12 square feet, if we were to raise the deck lid by 3 inches, or 1/4 of a foot, we would then have taken up a volume of 4 X 2.5 X .25 = 2.5 cubic feet. Not a lot of space.
Certainly not enough space to either accept or reject an engine for conversion based on it alone.
Personally, I'm looking into using a more modern TDI engine for my next conversion, I understand that a more upright installation is better, if so, so be it. I don't think that the entire lid will have to be raised 3" either, but even if it did, inasmuch as I'll be gaining about 13' X 5' X 2' = 130 cubic feet (all measures approximate) of volume by adding a hightop, the sacrifice of losing 2.5 cubic feet to be able to install the engine of my choice seems to be a very small loss.
Actually the 130 cu ft is a bit misleading - probably just the volume of the hightop aft of the hole (in the roof) and the forward storage should be considered. So it would be about 5X 4 X 2 (aft) + 3 X 4 X 2 (forward) totalling 64 cubic feet - still plenty of additional volume to accomodate lots and lots of stuff.
If the rear deck being raised meant that the seat had to be raised , well the space under the seat is storage anyway, so there would just be a bit more of it.
I would always opt to give up interior volume as opposed to lowering the road clearance. Too much investment in re-powering to risk anything hitting an unnecessarily low engine part.
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Last edited by J Charlton on Tue Jun 22, 2010 6:45 am; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 21, 2010 6:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

edgood1 wrote:

OK... so why can't you lower the engine at the mounts? The tranny would be angled down more, but so what?


Because the VR6 oil pan would be nearly dragging the ground.

A VR6 sitting WITH a raised deck lid sits closer to the ground than even the Ford Zetec motor.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 21, 2010 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I guess the engine could have been mounted lower in the shell but as with all syncros, ground clearance is important.

I've managed to get a 2.5TDi 5 cyl into my Syncro 16 without having to raise the lid and without losing much ground clearance. I only dropped it an extra 20mm from stock.

The roof section at the front is a factory piece and came on late Westfalias inc the California and Atlantic and is meant to work with a sunroof. They're supposed to good for more mpg. I had one on Limey when I first fitted the roof but wanted the more storage space and was prepared to sacriface the mpg.

MG
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 21, 2010 1:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rsxsr wrote:
I understood the original poster actually wanted to improve ground clearance to the point of trimming the rear valance away. So I don't think lowering the entire drive train was in his vision, but as you state could be done, but not easily.


yes, if you lower the engine and transmission you'll have to raise the suspension to grain the ground clearance back... then you'd be getting the CV angles closer to stock.
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