66 Fastback - The Dirty Gertie Adventure

[JaxDog]

Rear deck is the biggest mess on the car, in conjunction rear pilar and pop out window metal.

She is a mess. If I had a lick of common sense I would part the car out and find something else, but I am now emotionally attached.
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66 Fasty - Total noob but trying to learn as fast I can.
The Dirty Gertie Adventure http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=466960

[Tram]

[JaxDog]

Negative. The OOP did this when the Kadrons were installed:

There is no way that the filter is passing any air.

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66 Fasty - Total noob but trying to learn as fast I can.
The Dirty Gertie Adventure http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=466960

[Tram]

[JaxDog]

Positive it's the cooler. It is leaking right at the seals.

There is a super crusty after market filter on the breather. It looks like no air can penetrate. I couldnt find one locally and had to order one. I'll replace it as soon as it arrives. Let me see if I can find a close up pick. It is nasty.
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66 Fasty - Total noob but trying to learn as fast I can.
The Dirty Gertie Adventure http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=466960

[Tram]

[JaxDog]

Tram, I know that your knowledge is well respected. So bear with me.

It was recommended that I try Permatex after three rounds of trouble with the oil cooler.

I am certain that I am using the correct seals. I have an original cooler and the motor, while the serial number has been filed off to to a funky rebuild, has 8MM oil ports.

According the sheet Russ posted months ago, it calls for the orginal thick seals with the 2mm or thick washers. The washers/spaces are being utilized between the oil cooler and the top of the case, for lack of a better description.

I was very careful alighning everything when instaled the last, or 4th time if you prefer. I torqued to 6lbs as recommended and did no in steps to unformly put pressure on seals.

I do not not have the tools or an intelligent way to pressure test the cooler.

At idle she does not leak. At any RPM she starts leaking.

I dont know what else to do other than buy another cooler and try it but the guys here said to try Permatex first.

You know, I am wondering if there is any way if clogged oil breather could somehow drive case pressure up? I am really taking a shot in the dark here. Is my cluenessness showing?
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66 Fasty - Total noob but trying to learn as fast I can.
The Dirty Gertie Adventure http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=466960

[Tram]

[Mike Fisher]

I have a bunch of good used door seals I think.
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https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold

Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey

[JaxDog]

Here is the latest short-term list:

1) Chase down tie rod ends, damp, and grommet/bushing.

2) Install front and rear compartment seals

3) Yank oil cooler again and try Permatex. Pull both upper tins to re-tourque heads and then tune up, set valves, etc.

4) Fix fuel gauge. It was working earlier. I think that wire up by tank was crushed when blocking and bracing was set in front compartment.

5) Pull fuel tank and treat. Relocate (and maybe replace) all line runs and fuel filter.

6) Fix turn signals as my arm is tired.

7) Test fit new hood and get some temp paint on it so front compartment will remain dry.

Seal off rear compartment from the rest of the car as carbon monoxide poisoning is no fun. Visqueen and duct tape are my temporary best friends.

9) Put stock bolts, hub caps and beauty rings back on because the ol' girl deserves something shiny.

10) Hold on door seals to see if Mike is going to be Santa !
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66 Fasty - Total noob but trying to learn as fast I can.
The Dirty Gertie Adventure http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=466960

[JaxDog]

Tram, hiding the broom would only bring additional wrath, although she did putt Gertie around last night and cracked up the whole time. She clearly "gets it" although she has already decreed that the next car will be a 66 Type 1 for her.

She has been awesome. We talked about about the car extensively for a couple of days prior to purchase and that in spite of our best laid plans, things could go pear-shaped pretty quick.

We are still trying to get her drivable/safe in all her ghettoness. No surprise that we have had to spend way more money to do so than originally anticipated.

We also had to make some tough choices. As an example, the car leaks horribly. Since she is not garaged at this time, we elected to purchase all window, door, and compartment seals. We also know know that those seals may become damaged when pulling them back out during resto.

Bottom line is that we knew what it was going to cost (or close enough) to make her right or closer to right. We did not aniticipate pouring a ton of money in to her immediately.

Bob, I can't imagine what your parts run. We had talked about restoring an old car but knew we had to choose carefully due to resto costs. Thanks to all of you here, I know that Type 3's had lots of NLA stuff but nothing like trying to restore your car or a 356.

The hardest part about owning a Type 3 is the constant battle of seeing a part come up for sale that you know you will need at some point in the future and then trying to determine if you should eat Mac N Cheese for a few weeks, purchase the part and then stash it, or that you may be able to find another down the road. It's tricky business, especially when you are new to Type 3's and just don't have the history of chasing parts in the past.

Finally Bob, you guys that buy a car without ever driving it prior to resto have the toughest time of all. I at least get to drive this a bit and that always reminds me that what we all go through for these cars is clearly worth it.

Well, off to cuss and swear as I try to understand and find all the tie rod ends, steering damp. and that stupid grommet that I am certain no one has carried in 20 years.

Thanks again to all of you working so hard to help me. Not sure how I'll ever re-pay you guys.
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66 Fasty - Total noob but trying to learn as fast I can.
The Dirty Gertie Adventure http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=466960

[Bobnotch]

[Tram]

[JaxDog]

Mike has been trying to help me with some things. Unfortunately I have had to spend money like a sailor the last week or so. Throwing another grand on the fire will surely have my wife flying all over the house on her broom

I'll try and cut on a deal on the doors and maybe the heater channels for now, especially until we identify if the blow-by issue is resolved via re-torquing the heads, or it's motor rebuild time.

I swear that I have flushed less money down the toilet running amuck in Vegas! It's hell being in love with this car
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66 Fasty - Total noob but trying to learn as fast I can.
The Dirty Gertie Adventure http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=466960

[Bobnotch]

[Tram]

[Tram]

[JaxDog]

Bob, thanks so much for the info on the door! I have got to run down one of those parts books. I don't ever see them for sale so they must be tough.

You may be on to something with the rear drums being changed. I know that the motor was worked on and that heads were changed to dual ports. THere are also newer after-market CV boots on the car in fire engine red.

The width for old and new pads/shows was identical for the braking surface. The depth of the shoe itself (measuring at red line above) is the issue. The new shoes are much shorter here so they dont make proper contact with the cylinder or push bar.

As info, the Super Beetle shoes were identical to the base of the current brakes on the car but were more narrow.

If I have learned anything this past week, I now have a crystal clear understanding of why so many people preach buying a bone stock car. I now chase 66 parts but also watch for certain 67 parts due to the 12v conversion. In addition, we have a mystery set of rear drums on the back of the car.

With all of this, I'm going with that door. The only difference I see is a slight swelling at the point where the door lock pin comes through at the sill of the door. While I hate swapping out the orginal door (and hood), it saves enough money for half of a proper engine rebuild.

I am not heading for the darkside nor do I want to move further away from the stock look and feel of the vehicle; however, the depth and breadth of our disposible income does place certain limitations. I can live with the new door.

Finally, I will rip the oil cooler out one more time apply Permatex per the instructions. If it continues to leak, I reserve the right to apply the BFH. It won't correct the problem but will surely make me feel better.

Oh, almost forgot, we did run in to an interesting felony. All wheels drums have those after market chrome nuts and studs. One of those studs was seated so deeply that it snatched the emergency brake actuator arm (for lack of a better term) off of the drum. Pretty dangerous situation. These will all be going in the trash and I'll return the car to stock lug nuts.
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66 Fasty - Total noob but trying to learn as fast I can.
The Dirty Gertie Adventure http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=466960

[Bobnotch]

[flyinglow94]

When I had worked at Bill and Steve's in the late 80's The super beetle front shoe's were what was sold for 64 and later type 3 rear. Same dimensions. Or type 3 rears for super fronts due to the fact that the shoes accommodated to E- brake arm's. Before I put the disc's on the rear of my fastback I had put new super beetle shoes and wheel cylinders on.

I was at a VW shop out here in Vegas trying to get wheel cylinders for my Fastback and they could only see what was on the computer, they didnt have any cross references. Like FYI a super beetle front windshield seal is the same or will work as a fastback rear window seal. also 67 type 3 door locks have a 111 number on them which are a bug part or door lock.

Some shops are primarily Bug or Bus and don't have a clue about what will work for a type 3's.