Heavy Rain = Leaky Windshield. What Do?

[epowell]

[spacecadet]

If you've been leaking in the front drivers side corner, inspect the grounds there, only a matter of time before something acts up or your blow fuses for no reason.
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[epowell]

Probably the thing to do might be first to pour a bucket of water (or a garden hose) over the nose, and see where water might be coming in... ???
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[alnvilma]

Right where your gutter drains off....
Sure worth a shot, isn't it?

[MidwestDrifter]

There are several places on the nose where water can enter, the windshield and the antenna being the most common.

If the the windshield seal is already bonded down I would not disturb it. I would suggest confirming a good bond all the way around, if you find any gaps a dab of sealant should be an easy fix.

I have never seen water moving in from side "A" around the window glass. But it might be possible with a loose fitting seal. Any water ingress here should be visible on the inside of the van above the dashboard.

As a test some non permanent rubber cement (used for bonding photos etc) could be used to cover any suspected leak locations. Then just apply water.

Edit: If the repaint was done with the windshield instsalled, it is possible that the paint is holding the seal edges down. This is not going to stop water ingress. I would recommend freeing the seal edge and applying sealant if this is the case.
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[epowell]

I just checked out my windshield seal up-close... and SIDE "B" (the outer side of the seal) seems to be totally glued down tightly almost all the way around - so tightly that I really don't think I should mess with it (or should I rip it open??)

However there are a couple of spots in the upper corners that look slightly slightly opened (see fotos)... and slightly along the top seam might not be so sealed up --- perhaps this might be where the problem lies?

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[MidwestDrifter]

[epowell]

ONE QUESTION: (see foto)

First I lift back the seal and inspect the metal underneath for rust and moisture --- do I lift the seal back from SIDE A or SIDE B?

Second, if I find that there is no rust and/or anything to be too concerned about under the seal, then I should go ahead and apply a bead of urathane sealant under the seal from SIDE A or SIDE B?

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[MidwestDrifter]

Even with new glass and seal I had leaks on my 82. The fix was to completely dry the seal area and apply a fine bead of sealant under the perimeter of the body to seal surface. I lifted the seal edge as I went using a plastic tool. There is no need to use windshield adhesive (it won't hurt though) as this is not a structural application, just a water seal.
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2004 Dodge/Mercedes Sprinter (Custom Camper)
2000 Jetta TDI
1982 Diesel Westy W/ ABA I4 hybrid (Sold)
Epic Road Tripping since 08/05/12 | http://VagariesAbound.blogspot.com/
My Current Build | http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41215

[epowell]

Ahhh.... cool! Thanks guys.
Currently the seal looks so nice and clean and snug that I wouldn't normally think of lifting it - but I guess that is what has to be done - I will check it tomorrow in the light --- hopefully I won't have to pull the windshield... my guess is that I won't have to because I think this recent body work and paint job is just 18 months old or less...
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[alnvilma]

epowell,
I had a problem just like yours: new German seal, new glass and good surface.
I may have wrongly used a bead of silicone as opposed to urathane but, the fix worked!
I ran a bead under the ( lifted up seal ) approximately 6" both directions from the UPPER corners. Not a drop of moisture for 4 years now.
Good luck.

[dobryan]

Ed,

It depends on what you see when you lift the outside outer edge of the windshield seal (like a flap) and take a look at the paint under it. Any rust? If so then you need to remove the windshield, treat the rust, reinstall the windshield with a new seal and some sealant. The sealant goes under that rubber flap, not along the edge.

If the paint is good, unlikely, then you could try to just add the sealant under the flap and hope that takes care of it.... YMMV.
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Dave O
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[epowell]

[epowell]

[Tom Powell]

[16CVs]

Silicone may be right for a bathtub or ... ? Using it to seal glass is a bad idea on more then one front. Its hell to get off of paint. When used between Rubber and metal or any closed area it will hold Moisture and moist dirt and increase the likely hood of corrosion.
As others have suggested, figure out where the leak is before diving head long into it.
A rubber seal is meant to hold a window in and still needs to be sealed with a sealant at least between the glass and rubber in the lower corners.
Check the FAQ's ,My opinions haven't changed and I document how I prefer to do it and with what chemicals.

Stacy
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[Howesight]

[greebly]

[Zeitgeist 13]

The only place I use RTV on a vehicle is the red stuff on warped exhaust flanges. With silicone, I only use the spray for temporary lubrication and silicone grease on electrical connections. Silicone sealant is really tough to remove from painted surfaces, and RTV will foul oil and cooling systems in an engine. They're both way overused in vehicle applications
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'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
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[avernon82]

great, now I find out not to use RTV or flowable silicone...