Steering Boxes: VW vs. TRW; VW Teardown & Rebuild

[meet]

Just a quick update on my issue. Took my steering box to a machine shop with a sunnen hone and he was able to take the bushings I.D. to size. Everything is now square and lines up perfectly. Assembled to Bently specifications and tolerances and my steering box feels great!
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1969 Sunroof Beetle "Ivory"
1970 Baja Beetle "Greenbean" (sold)

Check out my progress on Instagram @meetsbeetles

[raygreenwood]

Just an observation.

From what you have stated over the past few days of how you have found that these were built....correct me if I am wrong regarding my takeaway from your posts...but pretty much even when brand new, parts taken from complete steering boxes made on one side of the assembly line or on one date versus another....do not interchange and operate?

This very much reminds me of rebuilt CV joints....where thousands of crapped out cores arrive at a warehouse in a gondola dumpster and get dumped in a vat, stripped by solvent, stripped into constituent components and then just assembled into working joints again. Sometimes with new parts....sometimes just mixing and matching of old parts.

It sounds like raw castings, machined parts and new bearings at the factory were just layed out in piles. Each workbench and worker dude was his own little factory. Put together a working steering box is the task.

Each one had roughly the same input/ouput tolerances measured at the shaft....but accomplished it with different tolerances inside.

All hand built stuff.



Ray

[meet]

[OKType3Tim]

Remote diagnosis: I'm going with lower bushing not reamed plumb to the top cover bushing.

To confirm, if you take the roller shaft out; then you can install the top cover with the bolts all lining up correctly?
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'69 Squareback restoration
'69 Fastback restoration
'66 Type34

[meet]

[OKType3Tim]

A thought: "Back in the day"; there were a few different manufacturers that VW used to have the steering box built. As long as the unit produced met the specifications for where it attached to the beam, and that the drop arm and steering column would attached correctly; then the rest of the unit could have manufacturing tolerance differences.

Also I remember that I could observe manufacturing tolerance differences between units that came from the same manufacturer. I.E. different 'production runs' had differences.
I especially found this when I thought about producing new lower bushings. I had a few dozen units; went through them taking measurements of lower bushing and roller shaft diameters. Results: all over the place.
E.G. perfectly good roller shafts wouldn't fit into perfectly good lower bushings.

If the holes are all off in the same direction, by the same amount; then I postulate that the lower bushing isn't reamed plumb to the top cover position.
But;
If the holes are off in different directions, e.g. the top cover is either to big or to small for the bottom housing; then I would suspect manufacturing tolerance differences. And given the age of all the units out there; completely possible that some previous owner swapped a top cover over from a different unit.
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'69 Squareback restoration
'69 Fastback restoration
'66 Type34

[heimlich]

[OKType3Tim]

To confirm:

Are you saying that with the top adjuster screw in the top cover, that the top cover holes do not line up with the housing?
And if so, are all the holes off in the same direction, by the same amount?
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'69 Squareback restoration
'69 Fastback restoration
'66 Type34

[meet]

This thread has been wildly helpful, but I have encountered an issue while rebuilding my type1 box that nobody on the last 25 pages has had.

I have replaced the lower housing bushing, reamed it, and installed. Oem bearings, new worm, new roller, new top cap with brass bushing. Everything put together per the Bently manual specs and processes. The worm shim is the same exact thickness as the one I took out (I have a thinner and thicker one if needed).

The problem: when everything is installed, the four holes in my top cap do not line up. This is an issue on both the new top cap and the old top cap.

What could be causing that issue?
Thank you!
_________________
1969 Sunroof Beetle "Ivory"
1970 Baja Beetle "Greenbean" (sold)

Check out my progress on Instagram @meetsbeetles

[aquifer]

I recently rebuilt my Beetle steering box with a kit from VWNOS as well. I was referred to this thread for guidance even though I'm not a Type 3 owner, and after reading all 25 pages (some of them several times), I am confident that I assembled it right. Good quality parts from VWNOS.

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread over time. It was incredibly helpful!
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Project vehicles:
1967 Beetle #1. Bought in 2024, mostly original, October 1966 build date. Java Green.
1967 Beetle #2. Bought in the mid 80's, restored myself in the late 90's, June 1967 build date. Java Green.
1998 Jaguar XJR. Bought in 2015, rust free AZ car, refurbished myself. Driven in nice weather.

Parts needed:
Original brown rubber floor mats for a '67
Original gazelle seat upholstery for a ‘67

[maddave2000]

Just received my rebuild kit from VWNOS also. Took just a week to get all the way to the UK (but then another week sat at Royal Mail waiting for customs processing! Grr!). Kit looks really good. Looking forward to rebuilding my sloppy steering. Thanks VWNOS for great service.

[Max Welton]

Just got my new box from VWNOS. Pre-greased and adjusted. Feels snug.
I'll know how it drives in a few days after I get the engine back in the car.

Max
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1967 Type-3 Fastback
Under the Knife https://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=151582
Home Stretch https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=767836

[raygreenwood]

If you are not going to tear the box down, it's worthwhile to really clean it out. Take some of the old oil you drained out, dip a bolt in it and stir it around in the FAST EVAPORATING solvent of your choice and see how well it dissolves the oil.

At best, something like a carburetor cleaner like Berrymans B-12....fill it abou5 half full and slosh/shake it well. Then work the pitman arm back and forth. Drain and repeat about 3 times total.

Fast evaporating thinners have a habit of chilling things and causing condensation from the air. So heat the box lightly either laying in the sun or with a blow dryer to allow full evaporation. Then pump it full of grease. Ray

[heimlich]

If you aren't going to pull the top cover you should try and fill the grease from the bottom up. I have a little tube I attach to a filler to do this. If you fill from the top it is likely you will get cavities.
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www.vwnos.com [email protected]
Classic Brands. Classic Quality.
Not all parts are made the same. NOS OE/OEM parts made mainly in West Germany, Early Germany, and Early Brazil are where VW produced the best quality parts and best fitting products.
5% Off your order with coupon code: 5%OFF
Restored Distributors Available (<--Click here)

[Snollygoster11]

Firstly I would like to echo what everyone else has been saying...Thanks for the effort and time put in to this thread.

I am ready to replace the lubricant in my steering box and and have the "Cornhead grease", the two plastic plugs and new seal ready to go.

I'm just wanting to know ..is there any secret to cleaning out the old grease ? I have a compressor to help flush it out and plan on using some type of wax and grease remover solution.

[Chloepetra]

Just wanted to say tysm to Tim for all the work you've put into figuring out the failure modes of the different boxes and effectively sourcing a reliable rebuilt aftermarket option through VWNOS
I don't necessarily understand the details of everything, but I'm willing to give it a shot using the guides and pictures on this thread!!
My bug is my daily so can't rebuild the og one without having something to put back in its place Just about ready to order (though the website says it's on backorder and also that there are more than 10 available )

Thanks again, will post photos of the horror as it unfolds

[bnam]

Axial play in the roller was good. I couldn’t get a 0.0375mm (.0015”) thru it.
Races on the worm and the outer races are smooth with no flat spots. I had initially thought the notchiness was a flat spot but was surprised to see none. No ridge like you describe noted on the upper bushing of the roller. The was axial play in the adjustment screw. I’m having some new shims made. They should be ready today.

Btw, the original top cover gasket is still intact. I think it is thinner than the replacement. Wondering if I should clean and reuse.

Byas
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1971 1302LS Convertible (RHD) owned since '74
Click to view image
1965 Karmann Ghia Coupe - under restoration
1966 Fiat 1500 Cabrio (with 1600 Twin cam)
1952 Citroen TA 11BL

[OKType3Tim]

[bnam]

Thanks Marcel!
_________________
1971 1302LS Convertible (RHD) owned since '74
Click to view image
1965 Karmann Ghia Coupe - under restoration
1966 Fiat 1500 Cabrio (with 1600 Twin cam)
1952 Citroen TA 11BL

[heimlich]

The cage of the bearings is what wears the most. That is where you will look for wear. I put a micrometer on the balls from a new bearing. The bearing is the NOS FAG as I sell. The ball measures 4.99MM.

TRW removed that bushing out of the top cover as a cost saving measure. VW boxes have them. My new boxes and rebuild kits have them. I have a roller and top screwed together and there is a little wiggle. There's no way to stick a micrometer in there to measure it. The top is fairly easy to replace once you have everything set with the preload on the bearings. If you find you need to do something there just remove the 4 bolts and turn it off.
_________________
www.vwnos.com [email protected]
Classic Brands. Classic Quality.
Not all parts are made the same. NOS OE/OEM parts made mainly in West Germany, Early Germany, and Early Brazil are where VW produced the best quality parts and best fitting products.
5% Off your order with coupon code: 5%OFF
Restored Distributors Available (<--Click here)