Build thread: Aussie Westfalia Conversion

[OzzieJo]

With the cabinetry out of the way I focussed my attention on installing the Subaru cruise control that I removed from the donor vehicle a few years ago.

When I was doing the Subie engine conversion I installed the cruise control actuator in area behind right hand tail light and the cruise control module was installed under rear bench seat near the ECU, but didn’t install the on/off, set/resume/cancel, or brake/clutch switches. I toyed with the idea of using the original Subaru on/off switch and set/resume/cancel stalk for these functions but that would have meant cutting a hole in the dash for the on/off switch and probably cutting a hole in the steering column cover to mount the set/resume/cancel stalk and didn’t really want to do that.

After a bit of research I came across a guy on YouTube who was reviewing
a Vanagon cruise control kit (search ItalJohn Vanagon cruise control) where the indicator stalk had been modified with buttons for on/off, set/resume and this looked pretty good. I contacted the guy who made the original kit and he said he wasn’t doing that anymore but the files required to 3D print the modification to the indicator stork and brackets for the brake/clutch switches were available for purchase at https://cults3d.com/en/users/pawelsalbut/3d-models. I went ahead and purchased the files and printed them off but found that the brackets for the brake/clutch switches were too long for the Subaru switches, and the modified ‘back plate’ for the indicator stalk would not accept the micro switches that I purchased locally in Aus. I have to give the guy credit though, the concept was good and I doubt if I would have thought about modifying the indicator stalk if I hadn’t purchased the files, so with the seed planted I jumped into my trusty 3D CAD program and developed my own 3D print models for the indicator stalk ‘back plate’ and brake/clutch switch brackets.

So how does the indicator stalk back plate thingy work?, well at the end of the indicator stalk on the back there is a bulge. This bulge piece can be removed to reveal a cavity underneath with enough space to house 3 microswitches.

The 3D printed ‘back plate’ has mounting points for the 3 micros on/off, set and resume (cancel can be achieved by pressing set/resume together).

The on/off button mounts on the end of the back plate and then protrudes trough a hole I drilled in the end of the indicator stalk, while the set and resume buttons just protrude through the back of the plate.

The wires for the micro switches exit through a small slot in the back plate and then run along the back of the stalk and into the steering column cavity. I just used a small cable tie to secure the cable to the back of the indicator stalk and you cant really see it.

The brake and clutch switches are installed on a 3D printed bracket and then mounted above the pedals using 4mm bolts into existing holes.

The Subaru brake switch is a bit wider than the clutch switch because in the original installation it also turns on/off the brake lights as well as disconnecting the cruise control. I found that this switch was just too big to fit above the brake pedal in the van as it would foul on the lower steering column joint (thingy). Since I didn’t need a stop light activation switch I just opted to find another clutch switch from a wrecker and this fitted in with about 1-2mm to spare.

I also found that the arm of the clutch pedal sits a bit lower than the brake arm and even with the clutch switch adjusted all the way down it was just not making good contact so I 3D printed a ‘pad’ which clamps around the brake pedal so that it makes good contact with the switch.

The Subaru on/off switch has a light on it to indicate that the cruise control is on, to provide this function I removed the green indicator LED from an old T3 instrument cluster (along with the associated resistor) and then installed the LED in the blank spot on my instrument cluster just below the battery/charge indicator.

To join everything together I had a 12 core wiring loom made up and ran this from the back of the van along the left hand chassis rail (next to main wiring harness) and up to the front. Behind the left hand headlight I found an entry hole that wasn’t being used (had a bung in it) and passed the wiring loom through that and inside the van (forward of the switchboard), I then threaded it over to the right had side just near the steering column and connected it up to the other bits and pieces. I only used 7 of the 12 wires in the wiring loom so there are a few spare for future use …. Subie check engine light and immobiliser maybe !!.

I have done about 1500Km of freeway driving in the van since installing the cruise control and it has been a life changer, everything is operating as it should and my right foot no longer cramps up after a long drive.

I have taken the van for a test drive and all cruise control functions seem to be working fine.

[OzzieJo]

Finally finished off the cabinetry a few weeks ago and connected up the 240v shore supply and inverter charger.

The inverter charger is installed under the rear bench seat on the left hand side and then I installed a diesel heater on the right hand side under the Subie ECU.

.

Above the inverter charger is the main electrical switchboard that I have now covered with a clear Perspex lid.

[zululep]

RE: the shallow depth USB socket, which seems to be a great solution for certain situations. This appears to be the only source on the web from what I could find, and it's in the UK. They do ship internationally.

https://www.carbuilder.com/products/twin-usb-socket-wth-sprung-lid
_________________
1984 Westfalia with Bostig Zetec

[dobryan]

_________________
Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2010 Subaru EJ25 (Vanaru) and Peloquin TBD

"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevenson

MD>Canada>AK>WA>OR>CA>AZ>UT>WY>SD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620646

Building a bus for travel in Europe (euroBus)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

The Western Syncro build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746794

[OzzieJo]

Finally finished wiring up the main switchboard under the rear seat this afternoon. It took longer than expected to get all of the spaghetti organised and then wrapped.

With this done I cautiously connected up the batteries and then after a few checks with a multimeter to make sure I was getting power to the board I started inserting fuses.

Pretty happy with the results so far, everything seems to be working fine.

Next job will be to wire in the Multiplus Inverter/Charger, and DCDC/MPPT.

[OzzieJo]

I started re-installing the cabinets today. First up I lifted the rear closet up onto a panel stand.

Then moved this over to the back of the van.

From there I was able to slide the whole thing into the back of the van and then stand it up

Then it was just a matter of carefully spinning it around and into position

Once the rear closet was bolted down I moved the sink unit back into place and then bolted it to the rear closet and floor.

[OzzieJo]

[pnwkayaker]

I've probably mentioned it earlier, but just in case, this is a very well thought out (and executed) build <applause>

I'm very interested in these adapters with the electrical connectors pointing down (instead of to the back), do you happen to have a link to them?

[OzzieJo]

The rear closet hosts the main control panels for the van including the battery monitor (Simarine Pico display), Victron Multiplus Inverter/charger controls, Heater controls as well as a number of switches and 2 x dual USB chargers.

All of the wiring is hidden away within a wall cavity and can be accessed via 3 x removable panels from within the closet.

[OzzieJo]

Once all of the cabinets were installed and I new that they would fit correctly I had to pull them all out again in order to get on with installing my electrical system.

This is the wiring schematic

Power is provided by 2 x 135Ah LiFePO batteries which are secured in a battery box that is located under the pantry/beside the rear seat.

New Australian regulations now require that all Lithium batteries installed in caravans/campers etc must be 'installed behind a wall, compartment, or barrier that prevents the egress of gases into the habitable area'. So with that in mind I had a local fabricator make me a box up pout of 3mm Al.

I used two pass through connectors to give me positive/negative connections outside. The elbow on top is a plumbing fitting which attaches to a hose that then goes down under the rear closet, through a bulkhead fitting and exhausts into the area forward of the rear taillight. The other two fittings allow a cable to pass through that can be used to re-set each battery BMS if required.

The main switchboard is located under the rear seat, the heart of which is the Blue Sea Systems Safety Hub which is used to funnel to/from the batteries to loads and charge sources. This image shows my prototype board, I'm getting a new one CNC cut at the moment along with a perspex cover. Overall Battery monitoring/health will be through a Simarine display located on the rear closet, while the SCQ-25 unit on the switchboard will allow for monitoring of up to four discrete loads but I'm only using three channlels for Fridge, all loads coming off the rear closet (lights, USB power etc), and heater.
The digital display located above the SCQ25 is a used to monitor temperature in the cabinet under the switchboard where the inverter/charger is and when the temp gets above a certain point it will turn on an exhaust fan.

[OzzieJo]

[OzzieJo]

Last little tidy up of the spice rack before shutting down for Christmas. I sprayed the aluminium bracket with some satin black just to make it blend in with the roof a little bit better and added the LED light strip underneath.

Wishing everyone a Happy Christmas … stay safe out there !

[OzzieJo]

Working on the Spice Rack today. I used the sheet metal feature in Fusion to come up with a design and then had this cut/bent by a local fabricator out of 3mm Aluminium.

This is then attached to the upper bunk support with some countersunk bolts into rivnuts. It is also secured to the rear closet with some 5mm bolts going into pre-installed tee nuts.

The bottom of the shelf is trimmed with a piece of furniture board that I had CNC cut to follow the shape of the body. this piece is held to the bottom of the aluminium with 6 x 6mm bolts with recessed nuts/washers.

I will cover the bolt holes with a full length LED strip like this.

Had the far end from the closet CNC cut and then this is held in place with some 6mm bolts.

The front of the shelf is covered with a full length aluminium extrusion which finishes it off nicely.

[OzzieJo]

I made a mistake in my CAD model associated with the cut out for the battery monitor/display panel … the dimensions of the hole should have been from edge to edge, but I managed to make it from centre of each radius for the corners ???? … anyway the hole was too big.

While I was getting the bench top cut I provided another file for an insert that would fit into the large hole and make it smaller. I made the insert about 0.1mm larger than the hole and then a light sand is all that was needed to make a tight fit.

Once the display is in and centred correctly you can barely notice the join.

[OzzieJo]

[4Gears4Tires]

The Austfalia is looking so good!
_________________
'87 Syncro Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition
'85 Westy Sciuridae Domus Edition

[OzzieJo]

Milled the last slots for edge banding today.

Managed to get through this job unscathed ... I hated it, working with this noisy, angry little machine with its blade spinning a million RPMs right near your you know what ... did I tighten up that blade nut properly ??

I used a padded edge for the bench top rather than the T-edge that I pretty much used everywhere else.

It looks much better with the edge trimmed.

Onto the spice rack next

[OzzieJo]

I received the bench top and the last few odds n sods back from being cut out yesterday. I went with a different colour for the bench top and bottom of the spice rack and was a bit concerned that I had made a mistake, but after seeing it in the van today I'm pretty pleased.

sink and tap fit in nicely

can't really see it from this shot but the bottom of the spice rack also fits nicely.

I had to make some minor adjustments to the end of the spice rack to make it fit properly around a piece of aluminium strip that I use to hold up the back of the head liner.

Also took the time to start installing the 3 LED light fixtures; one under the head banger.

one under the C-Pillar cross support

and the last one will go under the spice rack ... measure 50,000 times cut once.

[OzzieJo]

First glue joins for the rear closet going in.

These little Cabineo joiners have really served me well, I’ve lost track how many times that I have pulled the cabinets apart to make some adjustments and then out them back together again. These little blighters made that process so easy and relatively painless. I was in two minds whether to glue or not but in the end decided for a bit of added strength … my glue of choice was Titebond - Melamine.

While the closet was part for the last time I took the opportunity to embed some tee nuts behind the front panel that will be used to secure the spice rack.

I also made up some covers to go over the electrical access openings.

[OzzieJo]

Final fit of the cabinetry is now complete, and I have drilled remaining holes for the bolts to hold everything down (including the spice rack). With everything locked down I was able to take final measurements for the bench top, lower trim for the spice rack and the spice rack end that sits behind the drivers head. I have used these measurements to update the CAD model and will shoot the new files out to be CNC cut in a couple of weeks (the guy who does this for me is currently away). Next step is to remove everything, disassemble all of the cabinets parts, then glue them back together and put it all back in. I totally underestimated just how much time it would take to get these cabinets in, there are just so many little jobs to do, to get to this bit, I need to pull this and this off, measure/adjust, update CAD file, and then put it all back together again … over and over and over ….. I think it will be worth it in the end.