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halbug
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Joined: March 09, 2006
Posts: 579
Location: Germany
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halbug
Samba Member
Joined: March 09, 2006
Posts: 579
Location: Germany
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halbug
Samba Member
Joined: March 09, 2006
Posts: 579
Location: Germany
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 Posted: Wed Sep 03, 2025 11:32 am Post subject: Re: Oxyboxer (s) for my Ghia project |
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| Victor H wrote: |
What a fantastic build! Love the fabrication. Yes, nothing fits, everything pretty much requires modification.
Once it's running you'll find you drive it for a while, then take it off the road to modify something else. Then repeat, over and over.
Best wishes, super nice project and your documentation is really interesting.
Over here the Porsche style cooling systems are not popular at all and what's available here evidently doesn't cool very efficiently. I have a BAS/Ahnendorp system with 260 mm fan waiting for another motor to be completed. |
Hi Victor, thanks for your nice comment! Yes, the oxy needs a lot of adaptation and fabrication... The over all project was well planned, so I hope to keep the re-engineering to a minimum. I know exactly what you described and I have done it numerous times in the past.
I know I want to exchange this used engine with my own planned 2.8 at some time. Otherwise I hope to keep everything technically as is. Let's see LOL
_________________
Stealth Ghia Transformation: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7226044&highlight=#7226044
My Berg5: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=730276&start=0
The motor: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=10343324#10343324 |
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ArnoudH
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Joined: December 30, 2008
Posts: 183
Location: The Lowlands
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| Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2025 12:08 pm Post subject: Re: Oxyboxer (s) for my Ghia project |
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Hi Halbug!
Could you share some more details of the modified "banana"exhaust?
Looks really well made!
Cheers,Arnoud |
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Victor H
Samba Member
Joined: November 28, 2004
Posts: 121
Location: Lexington, South Carolina
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| Posted: Sun Aug 31, 2025 9:16 am Post subject: Re: Oxyboxer (s) for my Ghia project |
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What a fantastic build! Love the fabrication. Yes, nothing fits, everything pretty much requires modification.
Once it's running you'll find you drive it for a while, then take it off the road to modify something else. Then repeat, over and over.
Best wishes, super nice project and your documentation is really interesting.
Over here the Porsche style cooling systems are not popular at all and what's available here evidently doesn't cool very efficiently. I have a BAS/Ahnendorp system with 260 mm fan waiting for another motor to be completed. |
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halbug
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Joined: March 09, 2006
Posts: 579
Location: Germany
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halbug
Samba Member
Joined: March 09, 2006
Posts: 579
Location: Germany
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halbug
Samba Member
Joined: March 09, 2006
Posts: 579
Location: Germany
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halbug
Samba Member
Joined: March 09, 2006
Posts: 579
Location: Germany
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halbug
Samba Member
Joined: March 09, 2006
Posts: 579
Location: Germany
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halbug
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Posts: 579
Location: Germany
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vince1
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Joined: December 14, 2003
Posts: 842
Location: Burgundy, France
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TRS63
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Joined: December 17, 2017
Posts: 1134
Location: Stuttgart - Germany
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halbug
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Joined: March 09, 2006
Posts: 579
Location: Germany
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TRS63
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Joined: December 17, 2017
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Location: Stuttgart - Germany
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halbug
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Joined: March 09, 2006
Posts: 579
Location: Germany
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halbug
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Location: Germany
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Dan_Lockwood
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Joined: October 03, 2023
Posts: 469
Location: Clare MI
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| Posted: Fri Mar 07, 2025 5:32 pm Post subject: Re: Oxyboxer (s) for my Ghia project |
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| halbug wrote: |
| Dan_Lockwood wrote: |
| Ian Godfrey wrote: |
Very Porsche 
Are you using a drain back valve to stop the crankcase filling overnight? |
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What am I missing and should even be concerned about it?
Sorry to hijack this thread... 
Dan |
Dan, Ian, I am so glad you are raising this subject, so no hijacking at all! I have been pondering this back and forth myself and have not come to a final result.
In my case the scavenge pump will route the oil from the engine sump through a thermostat into the external tank. If the oil gets hot, the thermostat will direct the oil to the front mounted oil cooler first and then into the tank. The tank filling inlet is at its highest point, so no oil can escape through there.
The tank's outlet to the pressure pump is at a low point to positively feed the pump. And this could become an issue, because if all the oil would seep through the gears, over time, the engine would suffer from starvation on start up.
My first idea was to use a motorized ball valve in combination with a starter delay relay, to make sure the valve has fully opened before the engine starts. I have no room to install such a valve and the delay complicates things further.
Second idea was to use a ball check valve, maybe operated by a bowden cable from the interior of the car. Also here, I would want a dead switch or at least a warning light combined with the closed valve. There is very! little space left in the inner fender, so even this solution could become rather complicated in my case.
Right now I was about to test what the oil level in the engine will be once the oil from the tank drains into the case. I figure that anything below the crank cheeks would be save for starting the engine. More important, will there be any oil left in the tank when starting up???
The valves Ian mentioned are one more option I guess...
Thanks for the great discussion guys! |
I have a slightly different schematic that is basically what's below. I have a MasterLube pre-luber accumulator tank with a 2qt capacity.
In the bottom of my air over oil accumulator tank, there is an electric solenoid valve that is triggered by a spring-loaded return switch in the sand rail. When I turn on the key and switch, I soon will see oil pressure, at that point I know I'm okay to start the motor. BUT... it may take some (lots) of the oil out of the accumulator so it's now maybe close to empty. After the motor starts and builds oil pressure in all my lines and oil gallery, the solenoid valve is also a one-way check valve. It will let oil re-accumulate back into the tank automatically until the air pressure over the oil is equalized with the normal oil pressure in the oil system.
How does the Porsche drain-back valve work. Obviously it's a one-way valve of sorts. Is there a ball and seat with the ball being held against the seat with a very weak spring that will stop the gravity oil getting through, but actual oil pressure of, say 3 psi, would override the spring and let a full flow of oil as if without the valve in place????
In this system, with the opportunity for the oil cooler oil to slip past the bearings and back into the sump, and or, the filter oil/cooler line can also seep back into the sump via gears in the oil pump, where would you place the drain-back valve?
Thanks for the added discussion on this subject... 
Dan |
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halbug
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Posts: 579
Location: Germany
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Ian Godfrey
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Joined: September 25, 2006
Posts: 1216
Location: Melbourne Australia
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| Posted: Fri Mar 07, 2025 12:48 am Post subject: Re: Oxyboxer (s) for my Ghia project |
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Lars and Dan, I thought about a ball valve as my tank is where the back seat was and i can reach around to it. So I thought about putting a HUGE red tag on my key ring 'OPEN OIL VALVE', but i can be absent minded 
I also though about an ignition interlock or a fuel pump interlock but a passive anti drain back valve is 'absent minded' proof.
My tank is higher in the car than yours, so more of a problem.
I think working out how much might drain in to the sump is a good idea, ideally, you would want the oil level in the sump to be below the pushrod tubes so the rocker covers didn't fill up and certainly not above the crank centre line.
That would be a lot of oil in the sump and not much in the tank. |
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