Cheap fix for failed ignition lock cylinder - 2001 EV

[vanaaron]

This group has helped me multiple times over the years, so I'm hoping to give a little back.

The ignition system on my van died, and at first I thought the issue was the ignition switch. But after taking it apart, the switch wasn't the issue. Thanks to another post here (I'll see if I can link to it) I learned how to drill a hole in the ignition body to pull out the lock cylinder and located the issue. The far end of the lock cylinder has a thin tab that engages with the switch, and the tab broke. There is such small contact area with the tab that I'm surprised it hasn't failed before. This is what it should look like:

This is what it looks like broken:

To buy the whole cylinder assembly online is at least $200, and the local VW dealer wanted almost $350 for it. And that doesn't even include the cost/time to rekey a new cylinder.

Fortunately, the tab that broke is part of a small end piece that's designed to be separated from the rest of the cylinder (probably designed to fail for some reason). There is a small pin connecting the end piece to the cylinder, and it can be tapped out with a small nail or punch.

But not even the dealer was able to find just the end piece for me. So in my online searching I was using the part number that's stamped on the end piece, and full lock cylinders were coming up. The part number from the end piece is 357905855B

So I took a chance and bought a lock cylinder assembly that referenced this part number, but was really meant for an earlier model EV. The cost was less than $20 on Amazon:

Here are the two cylinders next to each other:

As far as I could tell, the end piece was an exact match. But I later found that the machining was slightly off.

First, there was a very small misalignment with the holes so the little black pin wouldn't sit all the way in. I gently ran a drill bit thru the holes and then the pin went back in nicely. Here's the new end piece installed on my old lock cylinder:

Then I had to grind down a couple spots on the new end piece to match the old one. I only realized this after reinstalling the lock cylinder assembly into the van twice and having it stick when removing the key. The engine started and stopped just fine, and it allowed me to remove the key, but the internals were sticking which caused the van to think that the key was still in the ignition. So I made several passes at grinding with a Dremel tool to make the new end piece match the wear marks on the old one. Here are the two end pieces before I did any grinding:

I didn't get a photo after grinding but you get the idea. So with everything reinstalled and functioning properly, I paid less than $20 to fix the problem. I didn't have to dig thru the junk yard. I didn't even have to rekey.

[Endopotential]

Thanks for taking the time to write that up and post all those photos!

Hopefully I'll never come across this issue, but having writeups like these are super valuable.

[vanaaron]

Hopefully it saves someone a bit of time and money, just like the post about drilling into the ignition body.

[rcerick]

Hi. I’m dead in the water 290 miles from home. My ignition key turns all the way to the right and nothing happens, so I suspect that the metal tab broke off on my ignition lock cylinder.
Can the vehicle be started by removing the electronic connector and manually turning the starter inside the hole with a screwdriver after disconnecting it from the ignition lock cylinder? Thanks.

[rcerick]

I know how to start it with a screwdriver but can’t remove the lower trim piece under the ignition and steering wheel to access the ignition. I removed all 4 nuts on the bottom bracket, but it won’t come off. Please help.

[EuroTec]

THIS is what I love about this community. We all share solutions to problems. Thanks!
_________________
If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

[HeyCrutch]

[rcerick]

Thank you. A crack mechanic helped me. He knew exactly how to remove it and we replaced the ignition lock cylinder. Back on the road. Accessing things was unnecessarily complicated.

[soissisc]

That end piece with the tab that the OP replaced, I got mine off of a 1984 VW cabriolet. It is the same part on many more VW models. If you are ever at pick a part you can grab one. Mine failed without really any warning.
_________________
Mark

68 Westy
92 Jetta (oh it is retired)
99 Eurovan
05 NBC
06 Audi A3
72 Westy (I am going to fix it up)

[vwwestyman]

Couple years later, thanks for this!

I'm pretty sure my tab broke this evening. Stopped for gas, and the van wouldn't start again! It was stuck in the "run" position, so I can't turn it off or start it!

Well, I think what happened was I turned it off, then the tab broke when I wen to start it, as it went loose.

Either way, it's switched to the run position.

To get home, I jumped the starter with the little screwdriver attached to the jack.

Once home, I tried to shut it down by pulling the negative batter cable but it ran off the alternator, so I reattached (didn't want to fry the alternator) so I did some thinking, and killed the engine by pulling the fuse for the fuel pump, *then* pulled the battery cable.

Unfortunately, before jumping the starter, I first broke the lower column trim hoping to be able to unplug the electrical portion of the switch and get the van started...

I had my 5 year old and our puppy great dane in the van, and was tired and flustered and just needed to get it going.

Anyone have a link ot the thread to remove the lock cylinder?
_________________
Dave Cook

President, Wild Westerner Club

1978 Champagne Edition Westy, repowered to '97 Jetta TDI
1973 Wild Westerner
My Thing

[qval]

[Joshwa]

The beginning of my thread, explaining this same cylinder key fix, has some explanation on removing the cylinder.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=743231&highlight=
_________________
93 Weekender TDI conversion (AHU)
93 MV TDI conversion (1Z)
Weekender rear cot
Late model cabin air filter on 93
Euro spec bumper install on 93

[vwwestyman]

Thanks guys, I think those two threads will get me fixed up. Amazon should be delivering my new lock on Wednesday.

It looks/sounds like the drill location is the same on older and newer Eurovans, yes (and probably a zillion other VWs, too...)
_________________
Dave Cook

President, Wild Westerner Club

1978 Champagne Edition Westy, repowered to '97 Jetta TDI
1973 Wild Westerner
My Thing

[vwwestyman]

One other question...

I should be able to just drive my Bus for a few days, but this morning it was a real conundrum... Drive the Bus or drive the van and force it to die like I did yesterday. (My wife was out of town through late this afternoon and I was having to consider how i was going to take care of the dogs... I.e. bring one to work or drive home to let them out or what, and the great dane still requires riding in a kennel and that doesn't fit in the Bus!)

Anyway, I digress...

Yesterday I pulled the fuse to kill the fuel pumps to make the engine die, before removing the battery ground.

But I'm wondering if there is a different fuse that would be even safer/better to pull to force it to die, if I do end up having to drive the Van again before I can get this fixed?
_________________
Dave Cook

President, Wild Westerner Club

1978 Champagne Edition Westy, repowered to '97 Jetta TDI
1973 Wild Westerner
My Thing

[vwwestyman]

I don't know why, but for some reason I was thinking you were supposed to turn the key as you pull the lock out, after drilling the hole and depressing the retaining spring.

In case anyone else reads this and thinks they should use the key to pull the cylinder out, that's wrong.

When I tried that, it was triggering the shifter lock and that jammed things up.

So just push the spring and grasp the lock as best you can to pop it out.
_________________
Dave Cook

President, Wild Westerner Club

1978 Champagne Edition Westy, repowered to '97 Jetta TDI
1973 Wild Westerner
My Thing