MPG from 26 to 15

[DSVW]

Hi, I have a 1966 Beetle all stock.

All ignition components are new. I checked the timing, valve clearance, plugs, points, and wires three times, and everything seems to check out.

The car starts right up with a bump of the key first thing in the morning in all temperatures and runs beautifully with plenty of power, but my fuel mileage is has gone from 26 to 15 mpg. I pulled a couple of the new plugs and they are now fouled after a few hundred miles of driving.

The car runs a newer EMPI 30PICT 1 Carburetor. It started running erratically, and I noticed that the clip came off the left side of the carburetor.
I will do my best to describe this piece:
The graduated piece that the fast idle screw adjusts to has a second piece of metal bent at a 90 degree angle that clamps to it and moves with it. I bent that piece ever so slightly to “ride” with the graduated piece.
Maybe I screwed something up by doing this but it is what every diagram showed.

There is a smell of gasoline in the car that eventually goes away as I drive and I have checked the fuel lines and gas tank and can’t find any leaks. I also checked the odometer to my phone and that checks out.

I am thinking it is dumping gas into the carb. A stuck float or something else?

Any ideas where to start?

[rcooled]

Run the engine for a few minutes, then remove the air cleaner to check the position of the choke plate. Maybe playing around with the fast idle cam jammed the choke in the closed position creating an overly-rich condition that fouled the plugs and killed your gas mileage. After running for a bit, the choke plate should be fully open.

A stuck float could be a possible culprit too, but have a look at the choke first.
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'63 Ragtop (current)
'65 Ghia coupe (totaled)
'67 Ghia convertible (current)
'69.5 Ghia convertible and
'62, '63, '65, '69 Bugs (all long gone)

[richparker]

How’s the timing?
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’71 Westy build
Adventure thread
’65 Deluxe Build
’71 Double Cab

[DSVW]

Thank you. I static timed twice. I will check the choke.

[Jeff Geisen]

the choke butterfly pivots off center so when you accelerate it’ll pull on open, unless it’s a manual choke

I’d look elsewhere
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I Corinthians 4: 1 thru 5

‘63 ragtop - ‘68 single cab

[zerotofifty]

[Bobs67vwagen]

It could also be a stuck fuel cutoff valve in the top half of the carb. If stuck in the open position it will not shut off fuel coming into the carb and causing an overly rich and or flooded condition. Get a carb rebuild kit and change this, they do go bad.

[DSVW]

All great advice. I will look into everything.

I just took the plugs out and cleaned them all. Perhaps the plugs were fouled by the clip that came detached from the graduated idle part that pivots on the left side of the carb. I will watch mpg now.

Anyway, I just got back from a drive at highway speeds and checked the choke. It is open about 1/2 way at idle. It is a newer empi carb and I noticed that the electric choke says 12 volts on the side. My car is a 6 volt system.
This wasn’t an issue previously, so I think it is probably dumping gas as was suggested.

[DSVW]

I just read that using a 12-volt choke on my 6-volt car could be a problem with mileage, performance and running rich but
I didn't have any problem with the mileage or performance the last 3K miles using this set-up.

[rcooled]

[Bobs67vwagen]

If you think the choke is staying partly closed you could disable it to check if the car runs fine with it open. Make a pencil mark on the adjustable center portion of it and extend the line over the outer ring where the 3 screws are that lock it into position. This will enable you to return to your present position after the test. Loosen the 3 screws and rotate it clockwise until the butterfly is fully open and tighten down the screws. Take the power wire off and tape the end of it temporarily and secure it so it cannot cause a short. Place a piece of thin wire over the top of the stepped lever on the throttle side to the fuel inlet pipe on top of the carb to insure the butterfly cannot close. Now drive the car with the choke disabled for a while and see if the plugs are still fouling.

[Eric&Barb]

Might pop the fuel pump up and see if there is a pool of fuel under it.

Know you checked the flex fuel lines, but did you run your hand all along those. Could be a seep that is enough to drain fuel, but not enough to drip.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[wagen19]

[Eric&Barb]

[Max Welton]

[VW_Jimbo]

Your description has similiar symptoms of a bad condenser or a bad coil. If you have a known good replacement, that would be the quickest test. If not you could try ohming them but know that at times is not trust worthy.
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Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[DSVW]

The oil level is good and hasn't moved. There is no smell of gas in the oil. The last three digits of the distributor say 009. It has a vacuum advance and it holds vacuum.
I will check the coil and condenser.
All of the fuel hoses are new and are not leaking.
There is no leaking of fuel in any of the hard lines either.
I ordered a 6 volt check and will put that on when it arrives. It should solve the choke issue.
If the plugs still fail, I will check fuel pump and carb.
Thanks everyone!