GNARWAL- 1971 VW Type 2 Riviera Camper Resto

[richparker]

I’m not planning on using a plug. The pump doesn’t have the hole for the oil to exit the pump into the case. It’s a small galley, it will be filled with oil from the return line and dead end.
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’71 Westy build
Adventure thread
’65 Deluxe Build
’71 Double Cab

[Buggeee]

[Buggeee]

[richparker]

That’s a crazy 90° fitting in oh have coming off the oil pump. I would highly recommend you use AN fittings and lines. You’re asking for trouble with those hose clamp lines. The are know. to leak and slide off the fittings.

Did you clearance the pulley tin and the mustache bar before you put everything together?

Where are you going to mount the external cooling system? Are you going to use an oil filter, 180° oil thermostat and a cooler with a fan?
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’71 Westy build
Adventure thread
’65 Deluxe Build
’71 Double Cab

[emtlibby]

Yes, the 90 degree fitting is necessary there to clear the mounting bolt for the mustache bar. I was pretty concerned about it too, but honestly, the entire case is full of 90 degree turns, so I am not too worried about one more.

I used these same fittings, oil lines, and special clamps (they are wide and grip the entire fitting) on my boat with two 5.9 cummins that push over 120psi when cold and never had an issue. So I had the hose and everything left over. I'm gonna give it a try and see.

I did clearance the pulley tin and mustache bar.

No external cooling system. It's only a 1679 with basically stock compression and cam. I did add a type 4 oil cooler (extra capacity) with bigger shroud and andrig air cooled fan that significantly increases airflow.

Thanks for the input on the oil pump. I'm weirded out a little because its not super tight in the case. I have to tap it in, but just with my hand..... I remember pulling these in the past and finding them very tight.

I've also read that sometimes these pumps are a tad undersized. One thread I read someone said to use self-adhesive aluminum tape to increase the OD. That feels not good? Thoughts?
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1971 VW Riviera

[richparker]

[emtlibby]

Im adding an external filter.

I've also installed an oil temperature gauge in the filter housing. If it turns out that oil temperatures aren't ideal, I can always add an external cooler later.

I'm likely gonna bench test it this weekend, so I guess I'm in the run it camp for now, lol.
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1971 VW Riviera

[richparker]

Is it alive?
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__________
’71 Westy build
Adventure thread
’65 Deluxe Build
’71 Double Cab

[emtlibby]

My starter died 10 seconds into trying to start building oil pressure.
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1971 VW Riviera

[richparker]

I use one from Autozone because of the lifetime warranty. I’d have to check my records to see which one I’m using, but I think it’s this one. I will try to look it up later.

Duralast Starter Motor 16300
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__________
’71 Westy build
Adventure thread
’65 Deluxe Build
’71 Double Cab

[emtlibby]

Coming tomorrow. Then we'll try. Frustratingly, despite meticulous sealing, I have a small drip from the very front bottom of the case on the seam below the oil pump.

I think the case wasn't perfectly machined there.
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1971 VW Riviera

[richparker]

What sealant did you use?
_________________
__________
’71 Westy build
Adventure thread
’65 Deluxe Build
’71 Double Cab

[emtlibby]

Permatex 3H
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1971 VW Riviera

[richparker]

Curil T2 would have been a better choice. But, nothing you can do about it now except wipe it down every now and again.
_________________
__________
’71 Westy build
Adventure thread
’65 Deluxe Build
’71 Double Cab

[emtlibby]

IT LIVES, well sort of.

Yesterday my new starter came. Attempted to start the engine, and it just cranked. Working through things, I quicky realized it was getting no fuel.

Removed the brand new Brosol fuel pump, and it was dead.... Yes I have the correct rod. Pressed on the tab, and no flow..... Ordering a new one.

In the meantime, I had a low pressure electric pump. So I hooked that up tonight.

Bus started, but it was hard to keep it at 2000RPM, timing was ok, around 25 degrees at 2000ish RPM. Exhaust smelled and seemed hot. Besides that it was running smooth. After a few minutes got a backfire out the carb....

So heres the thing. When I got this bus, it was running ok, but smelled like it was running very rich. I pulled and rebuilt the carb (34 PICT 3), found that it had a 137.5 main jet. Switched to a 132. The bus was then backfiring and running like crap. This is when I discovered the number 4 plug was oil soaked, and had low compression. This is what led me to rebuild. I assumed then, that the rich jet was masking some issues. So I left the 132 in for tonights first start..... I think its super lean. My plan is to put the 137.5 back in and try again.

That feels like too big a main for a 1679... But, maybe there's an issue with the carb that is requiring it. Or, maybe its something else. BUT, that seems like the simplest explanation, and the old engine did run pretty good with that jet and carb. Open to ideas.
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1971 VW Riviera

[Buggeee]

There is a break-in procedure for a first start. Stage one is hold it at 2,000 rpm for 20 minutes then shut it down, change the oil and filter, then adjust the valves again when everything is stone cold. This is necessary to work-harden the cam lobes and lifters together so they don't grind each other to dust during driving. Stage two is to drive to a reasonable speed then coast down by engine braking, then speed up, then coast down a bunch of times to set the piston rings. Then change the oil and filter. Then check the valve adjustment when it's stone cold. Then check the timing again when fully hot. Then final tune the carburetor.

Enjoy! This is such a thrill.
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Big Time 1988 Vanagon Westy
Release the Krankenwagen! 1966 Sportsmobile Camper
Dr. Kompressor 72 Super Duper
61 Turkis Pile (adopted out)

[emtlibby]

Yes aware. That was the plan, but shut down the cam break in early due to lean condition. Will pick it back up tomorrow.
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1971 VW Riviera

[Buggeee]

Oh, and every one of mine is a leaker from the case seam, even with the curil-t. I'm going to try aviation on the next one. Not trying to start the threat eating debate on sealants, just letting you know you are not alone.

Bug on! Er, I mean Bus.
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Big Time 1988 Vanagon Westy
Release the Krankenwagen! 1966 Sportsmobile Camper
Dr. Kompressor 72 Super Duper
61 Turkis Pile (adopted out)

[emtlibby]

lol, thanks for that.
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1971 VW Riviera

[emtlibby]

It ran, and pretty well.

So I woke up this am, and changed the jets in the carb. Bus still wouldn't start. Changed them again, nothing. Then I sat there for a bit, and started to question everything. I KNEW that I had set static timing right. But, after going through everything, I checked it again. Guess what, timing was off. Maybe I bumped the distributor, or maybe I mucked it up, but once that was done, it started right up and ran pretty well.

Did the 20 mins at 2000RPM. Dropped the oil, no metal in it or on the magnetic plug. Will let it cool and then check valves.

2 small issues:

1- I seem to be getting a small misfire... I had the alternator charging wire zip tied to #1 plug wire, so maybe thats it? Not sure. Slight stumble and my digital tachometer wouldnt read consistently from the number 1 plug wire. So I assume #1 has a misfire. Read fine on #2. I'll pull the plug and check wires once cool too.

2- A few oil drips from the valve covers, nothing major, but about a cup of oil leaked from around the oil pump cover. Now I am wondering if my leak was never from the seam, but from the pump. Its a CB performance aluminum one.... I used both paper gaskets and permatex, but I guess I'll need to seal it again....
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1971 VW Riviera