Need Advice on Engine/Inspection Report findings - 80 Westy

[surfinwesty]

Ok....I have been having trouble with an 80 air cooled that is getting better thanks to the samba. However, out of a stroke of luck a guy was selling his 80 westy close by (same color and interior). The 80 had only 700 miles on a new engine done by a very good shop in norcal: New engine, external oil cooler, tach, engine heat temperature display; new window seals and molding; and mint condition pop top canvas with clean interior. He said it would not start and he was feed-up with putting money into it (receipts for over 8K). The engine hesitated and shook in-between shifting as well. After looking at it with my Bentley and samba education, I found the problem was the second battery line off the positive which completely broke off. It also had a ground connection to the frame which was very loose. Once I attached everything all the problems went away. Long story short…the guy wanted me to have it at a price a college guy can afford because he thought I would care for his Westy (which I do). I now have a solid bus that just needs a little cosmetic love and proactive maintenance.

I passed the smog test with flying colors and I took it to the “infamous” ‘bus lab’ in Berkeley, California for a complete inspection. The final report seemed good; however they noted that these problems do exist and I should plan on getting them fixed eventually. Given that I have a limited budget, what problems do you think I should address first (I will eventually try to budget all of them within the next 10 months)? Are some of these repairs possible to do yourself (road-side style w/limited tools & Bentley)?

Here are the Report Findings: Everything ok unless specified below
Brakes-
- “Brake Hoses are old”
Steering and Suspension-
- Ball Joints: “Torn boots and play in uppers”
- Tie Rods: “Left End Bad”
- Tire Tread: Front 70%, Rear 20%
Engine-
- Compression results: “100-100-95-100”
- Oil Leaks and Level: “Right valve cover leaking slightly”
- “External oil cooler hose leaking” (will replace/tighten)
- Ignition Components: “Rotor & Cap Worn”
- Hoses: “Fuel Hoses Cracking” (will replace ASAP)
Transmission & Wheels -
- C.V. Joints/Boots: “Play in left outer”
- Clutch Hydraulics: “Slave Cylinder wet”
Road Test -
- Transmission: “Linkage Squeak with clutch shifting”

I really know nothing about suspension or steering, but I do know that if your C.V. joint goes out you are stuck for good until it gets replaced. I will replace all fuel lines and fuel filter in the next day or so. Is there anything else I should check and perform for this new bus? The good part of this buy is that I was able to reduce the insurance to a minimum on the older bus (dirt cheap), so I can afford to keep it around for parts to feed the one I just picked up if need be.

The other bus was getting pretty worn so I was more reactive in repairs verses proactive with the new one. I want to keep this bus for a long time and slowly restore it to perfection. What are some recommendations given the report? And what do you estimate it might costs to have a shop do it right (Bus lab is closed down for a while for their annual holiday vacation trip, so I could not get a quote)?

Thanks for your help

Old van tinted windows; newer van not tinted

_________________
Current Love:
"Adobe" 1984 VW Westy w/Subi

Retired:
"Swell Chaser #1" 1980 Westy (in VW Heaven)
"Swell Chaser #2" 1981 Westy (sold to loving family on TheSamba forum)

[FNGRUVN]

Compression numbers are pretty low for a new engine being at sea level. That would concern me.

Most of the stuff on your list could be done with limited resources.
_________________
"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote." - Benjamin Franklin

[edgood1]

[Terry Kay]

I'd invest in the brakes & fuel lines first---
Then hit the rest of the stuff as the money rolls in--

I think that maybe it would be a mistake to start throwing money at a Van that didn't have much for an engine though--the compression reading's really don't sound too good, & don't sound like a new engine.

Might be a bottomless pit your getting involved in here.

My question would be--with that low of compression , how did it get through the emissions test?
_________________
T.K.

[?Waldo?]

With low miles on it, the rings may not have seated yet and might account for the low compression numbers. Be sure not to use synthetic oil during break-in.
_________________
I am a high-functioning autistic into VW diesels and Vanagons along with other things that are unrelated to this site.

[surfinwesty]

I will go over the compression numbers with the bus lab when they get back in a few weeks. They said it ran fine and was really smooth...I could be miss-interpreting the compression results as well. What should the numbers be closer too? I have not changed the oil in it yet, what do you recommend in a newer engine to put in?

Also, the engine was installed by a very reputable shop in norcal named Valley Wagonworks. The receipts are detailed with a follow up engine compression check two months after install with "good results." However, the results/numbers of the follow up test are not listed.

The receipts show new fuel tank, with fuel sender and new seals on the tank. Repair of engine wire harness; New Brakes front and rear with rotor resurfacing; along with some other minor stuff.

On the new engine install it looks like they used Castrol 20W50. I see that they did not replace the cap and rotor, but replaced wires and plugs, belt, and only the fuel lines in the engine compartment. (I believe the cracked lines in the report refer to the lines coming to the engine and away from the engine). I also see a receipt for replacement of all vacuum lines in engine compartment.

The bus seems very quick (hell of a lot faster than the banged up one). Is there something that seems funky or fishy here?
_________________
Current Love:
"Adobe" 1984 VW Westy w/Subi

Retired:
"Swell Chaser #1" 1980 Westy (in VW Heaven)
"Swell Chaser #2" 1981 Westy (sold to loving family on TheSamba forum)

[Randy in Maine]

The secret for doing a compression test is to do it with a warm engine with valves freshly adjusted and the throttle wide open. Since you have hydraulic lifters, make sure they are well pumped up with adequate preload prior to the compression test.

I do them this way myself....

http://www.ratwell.com/technical/FAQ/FAQContent.html#0101 and do the oil squirt in 1.5.

For brake hoses, these are my suggestion if they will fit a 80 vanagon so you need to confirm that....

http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=BWL0001&cartid=

Rebuild the CV joints if they are at all questionable using the "rockford boots" would be my suggestion. At least you will kow they are done correctly. Call to confirm that it will work for your application

http://www.germansupply.com/home/customer/product.php?productid=16640&cat=&page=1

If you have to farm out anything, have a real shop do the ball joint replacements and adjust the alignment after they are done.

Air cooled vanagons should use the correct 185R14 tires as taller ones will gear it up even more and create more cylinder head temps in the process.

[surfinwesty]

Great links Randy -

I did have the compression test done when it was very cold outside, and I do not believe the bus lab really has the time to warm it up nice and hot before testing. It seems that the numbers should between 85 and 135. This engine is within range, but it really should be closer to 120-130 if the article you gave me is correct. I will run my own test and compare given your referral instructions along with cross-reference of the Bentley manual.

Are replacing the CV boots a PITA? Do you need special tools or is it pretty straight forward?
_________________
Current Love:
"Adobe" 1984 VW Westy w/Subi

Retired:
"Swell Chaser #1" 1980 Westy (in VW Heaven)
"Swell Chaser #2" 1981 Westy (sold to loving family on TheSamba forum)

[Randy in Maine]

Actually it is pretty straigtforward. I use this rap on doing it but van cafe or somebody like that has a nice write up also....

http://www.type2.com/bartnik/cvjoints.htm

Handy items to own include a 6mm tiple square socket, a good set of snap ring pliers, a box of latex gloves, a bench vise, some extra CV joint grease, and a 2 jaw gear puller.

I can do all 4 in an afternoon, but I have done it about a dozen times or so over the years.