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Blower motor resister bypass
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talimaster
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 2:22 pm    Post subject: Blower motor resister bypass Reply with quote

Hey all I have a 86 vanagon and just replaced the blower motor and once I got it all back together I found it only works on 3 not 1 or 2. I believe my resister is bad. Does anyone know how to bypass it and put in a new one outside the heater box? I do not want to get back in there...ever again.

thanks

rob
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big swifty
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 2:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I feel your pain. I relocated mine; here's some pics. Did mine during a complete refresh of the box. Suppose you could splice the wires closer to the switch. Good luck!


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The fan has 2 yellow power wires. 1 handles the full speed directly from the dash switch. The other is the resistor power. The presence of 2 wires almost suggests VW knew the resistor was sh1t and at least you would be left with full speed.
SO
If you have a replacement resistor you can install it WITHOUT removing the dash. If your replacement doesn't come with the switch socket then your in for more splicing.
Just reach behind the fan switch and pull it off so you can work. now splice the resistor solid yellow to the switch yellow. Don't sever the switch yellow ,just piggy back the resistor power on the full power line. Test for 3 speeds. Insulate all the exposed terminals('letric tape)and zip tie the resistor to something so it doesn't fall out.
There it's fixed and you don't remove the dash or crack the heater box.
Wow it looks like I have a spare front heater core with no leaks Wink


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RCB
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 5:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Click and Clack were asked the same question on their show this morning but instead of it being a Vanagon it was a very early Datsun Wagon which they claim was about the best car ever built.

This gal had about 200,000 miles on it and the blower motor had just began working on full speed, first and second speed quit.

Replacing the resistor would fix it right up.
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edgood1
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did this yesterday. I feel your pain...i never want to have to get in there again.

I relocated my resistor to the outside of the heater box. Make sure you tape up the leads on the resistor.. you don't want any loose grounds shorting on them.
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peaceful warrior
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

May be a idiotic question, but I do not understand how KS's diagram would give you the three speeds if the resistor is spent. It seems to me that it would just be paralleling 12 volts to the motor, so how could that give you different speeds? The resistor is designed to drop the ohms, so the fan will spin slower. Maybe I am missing something here????

Has anyone attempted to replace the resistor with a modern resistor? I looked thru the Bentley and it has no specs on the resistor, so that would have to be known before hand.

Any thoughts?
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 3:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

peaceful warrior wrote:
May be a idiotic question, but I do not understand how KS's diagram would give you the three speeds if the resistor is spent. It seems to me that it would just be paralleling 12 volts to the motor, so how could that give you different speeds? The resistor is designed to drop the ohms, so the fan will spin slower. Maybe I am missing something here????

Has anyone attempted to replace the resistor with a modern resistor? I looked thru the Bentley and it has no specs on the resistor, so that would have to be known before hand.

Any thoughts?


He is adding a second "new" resister outside the box, so there is still a resister. Probably just about any two speed resister for a heater fan of this size would do. It just needs about the right resistance and to be able to handle the required amount of heat.
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peaceful warrior
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 4:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
peaceful warrior wrote:
May be a idiotic question, but I do not understand how KS's diagram would give you the three speeds if the resistor is spent. It seems to me that it would just be paralleling 12 volts to the motor, so how could that give you different speeds? The resistor is designed to drop the ohms, so the fan will spin slower. Maybe I am missing something here????

Has anyone attempted to replace the resistor with a modern resistor? I looked thru the Bentley and it has no specs on the resistor, so that would have to be known before hand.

Any thoughts?


He is adding a second "new" resister outside the box, so there is still a resister. Probably just about any two speed resister for a heater fan of this size would do. It just needs about the right resistance and to be able to handle the required amount of heat.


I understand that is what he said, but you cannot get to the yellow wire between the resistor and the fan motor without removing dash and cracking the air box. You can get to the white and yellow/black to the resistor from the switch, and the yellow power from the switch to the motor. So how could you splice the yellow resistor wire in to the main yellow without doing the former.

On the same subject, but of a different nature. I replaced my fan motor, bench tested it (a-ok) put everything back together. Turn the switch on and no fan? I replaced the switch with a new one and still no fan?????
I then checked with multimeter and I am getting power into the switch, but when I switch to the first position, I am getting power to each outgoing wire. It's the same in every position.....This isn't correct is it?
Shouldn't the switch as it is turned to each position only get power to that post? I am dumbfounded at this point.
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crazyvwvanman
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Both yellow wires go to the same place, the motor. That is why you can tap into the switch yellow wire for the bypass resistor, since it does not matter which yellow you use.

What you describe as far as voltage the same on all switch wires no matter which speed is on is exactly what you would see if the ground connection was bad.
That is probably why the fan does not work even though you have voltage to it. The brown wire must be connected to ground for the motor to run.

Mark



peaceful warrior wrote:
..........................

I understand that is what he said, but you cannot get to the yellow wire between the resistor and the fan motor without removing dash and cracking the air box. You can get to the white and yellow/black to the resistor from the switch, and the yellow power from the switch to the motor. So how could you splice the yellow resistor wire in to the main yellow without doing the former.

On the same subject, but of a different nature. I replaced my fan motor, bench tested it (a-ok) put everything back together. Turn the switch on and no fan? I replaced the switch with a new one and still no fan?????
I then checked with multimeter and I am getting power into the switch, but when I switch to the first position, I am getting power to each outgoing wire. It's the same in every position.....This isn't correct is it?
Shouldn't the switch as it is turned to each position only get power to that post? I am dumbfounded at this point.
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peaceful warrior
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 6:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

crazyvwvanman wrote:
Both yellow wires go to the same place, the motor. That is why you can tap into the switch yellow wire for the bypass resistor, since it does not matter which yellow you use.

What you describe as far as voltage the same on all switch wires no matter which speed is on is exactly what you would see if the ground connection was bad. That is probably why the fan does not work even though you have voltage to it. The brown wire must be connected to ground for the motor to run.

Mark


Thank you Mark,
I thought that was the case with switch and ground. I am heading back out to check it now. I know that I reconnected the ground, but it may not be a clean connection. Funny thing is I cannot remember where the heck it was screwed down to. Rolling Eyes

As for the wiring, I sat down and laid the wiring out on paper and figured it out. I think what threw me was that the photos did not show the resistor wired up and I confused myself........got it now. Very Happy Wink

EDIT:

Well, I found the ground, and it is connected up to a ground block (circular actually) just above the fuse box on the A-pillar. I guess it is back to the drawing board and remove the dash again. I also found 2 new resistors at the ABQ dealer, so I ordered them both. I am going to rewire it so it's under the dash. Any good ideas on locations, so that it does melt anything else or should I enclose it?
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toomanyveedubs
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 10:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can't understand why people are relocating these if they take 20 years to fail??? Are they still going to own it 20 years from now!

Anyway, is the rear underseat heater the same resistor pack as the front?
My rear heater stopped working on Speed 1 & 2. Do I need to find another rear, or will either work?
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crazyvwvanman
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 11:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The rear heater resistor is different. The rear resistor also has a thermal fuse attached that would disable speeds 1 and 2 if it blew, according to the wiring diagram.


Mark



toomanyveedubs wrote:
I can't understand why people are relocating these if they take 20 years to fail??? Are they still going to own it 20 years from now!

Anyway, is the rear underseat heater the same resistor pack as the front?
My rear heater stopped working on Speed 1 & 2. Do I need to find another rear, or will either work?
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crazyvwvanman
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 12:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you pull the ground wire off and then measure the voltage between it and the ground star for the various switch positions?

Mark


peaceful warrior wrote:

Well, I found the ground, and it is connected up to a ground block (circular actually) just above the fuse box on the A-pillar. I guess it is back to the drawing board and remove the dash again. I also found 2 new resistors at the ABQ dealer, so I ordered them both. I am going to rewire it so it's under the dash. Any good ideas on locations, so that it does melt anything else or should I enclose it?
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toomanyveedubs
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 12:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

crazyvwvanman wrote:
The rear heater resistor is different. The rear resistor also has a thermal fuse attached that would disable speeds 1 and 2 if it blew, according to the wiring diagram.


Mark


is the thermal fuse resetable? is it on the rear heater itself?
TIA
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peaceful warrior
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 8:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

crazyvwvanman wrote:
Did you pull the ground wire off and then measure the voltage between it and the ground star for the various switch positions?
Mark


No, I will be doing that today.....I was too tired to concentrate on it last night.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2010 5:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, frankly I am embarrassed... Embarassed

I couldn't suss the problem out, so I pulled the dash again and the air box, split it again and found I had not hooked up the wires to the motor after bench testing......... Laughing

All is good now and the resistor is fine. Good lesson in that I can take the dash out in 30 minutes and put it back in in 1 hour.
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 5:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

this came up in another topic.

How hot does the resistor get, and does it really need to be in the airflow of the heater box?

I don't think it does, but others argued it did. I can't see how blowing hot air over it is going to cool it. That air can get really hot being so close to the heater core.

My argument was that the early jettas use the same blower and resistor and they aren't in the airflow path:


thoughts?
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't think airflow is essential for it, but some space around it so it can radiate heat won't hurt.
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 9:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why not use a US A1 resistor which is mounted in the airflow in a position inside the cab where it can be removed when needed? I did this in my hot rod 1979 GTI.

I suspect this is a standard generic US part but never looked as I had plenty of used ones at the time. It has not failed in the 17 years since building the car.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 01, 2017 3:55 pm    Post subject: Thermal Cutoff/Fuse Specs was Re: Blower motor resister bypass Reply with quote

Great thread on heater blower resistors. They're available new again, from VW Heritage and their outlets, for US$70 or so.

My rear blower (87 Syncro) was corroded so badly I had to hammer it out of the plastic case, snapping off a few chunks in the process. I replaced the motor with a front motor from Bus Depot. I can't recommend that method: the fan is fractionally larger in diameter so the case, already broken, had to be dremel'd out and hit with a heat gun to accept the BD front fan. Removing hte fan in both cases was difficult; a puller would have helped and been less damaging.

If I could do it again, I'd have the motor rebuilt by a shop.

As it turns out, the thermal cut off (fuse) was also blown, probably from overheating due to being corroded.

Here is the replacement spec:

Newark Electronics 09WX6683, THERMODISC G4A01167C Fuse, Thermal Cutoff, MICROTEMP Series, 10 A, 250 V, 167 C (Lime color code), Axial Leaded, 152 C.

$1.27 as of January 1, 2017.

When installing, use a heat sink and be careful not to damage the case when bending leads. Best to use two needle nose pliars or leave them straigh and solder to the stumps of the original!

Link:
[/url]http://www.newark.com/thermodisc/g4a01167c/fuse-thermal-167-c-10a-250v/dp/09WX6683?aa=true&vw=&categoryId=800000004761&eq=N%3D200308%2B422%2B2203%26amp%3BNs%3DP_STORE_MARKETING_RANK_NEWARK_US%257c0%257c%257cP_MAN_PART_NUM%257c0%26amp%3BNtpc%3D1%26amp%3BNtpr%3D1&searchView=table&iscrfnonsku=false[url][/url]
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