simple way adjusting lifters

[vw-man-with-saturn]

Can someone tell me a step by step of adjusting valves on a hydraulic lifter engine? Please dont tell me to search because the stuff Ive read seems like chinese to me

[my59]

Have you ever adjusted valves before?
Do you have the Muir book?
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my59: Well son, my grandfather died before I got to drive it, so does that answer your question?
our79: sunroof bus w/camper interior and 2.0 FI
Other:'12 Jetta, '77 Benz 300D, and a 74 MG Midget.

[glutamodo]

Why do you want to adjust them? Is there some issue where you suspect they aren't set up properly? Once set up, you don't need to check them.

Adjusting - it's about the same as adjusting the valves on a mechanical lifter engine, except that you back the adjusters out til they have clearance, screw them in until they contact the valve stem, then turn them in 2 full turns and tighten the locknuts.

So:

Engine cold -

Pull the valve covers off, clean and re-gasket them as needed.

Remove the distributor cap and then turn the engine over until the rotor points at cylinder number 1 and is at TDC on the timing scale (there's a mark on edge of distributor body, and verify that it's the same as where the number one spark plug is plugged into.)

Adjust number 1 as mentioned above.

Rotate engine by hand backwards 90 degrees, repeat for cylinder two.
Rotate engine by hand backwards 90 degrees, repeat for cylinder three.
Rotate engine by hand backwards 90 degrees, repeat for cylinder four.

Replace valve covers and distributor cap.

Start engine and watch for valve cover leaks.

[aerosurfer]

[busdaddy]

I agree yet disagree with both of you in a way
Never trust the mark in the distributor as #1 TDC, get familiar with cylinder numbering and follow the plug wire from that cylinder to the distributor, then make a mark on the side of the distributor body with a Sharpie at each wires location with the corresponding number where it plugs in, there's too many differently marked distributors and dumbs**t mechanics installing drives to assume the mark is correct. Once it's marked adjust the valves on the cylinder number the rotor is currently pointing to.
Secondly Hydros don't really need to be warm for adjusting, you can still feel the end of the internal spring where it goes to zero lash even if they are dry.

As for don't need adjusting?, technically they don't but it's good to unwind them and readjust every year or two just to get a read on the health of the valve train and heads. Log how many turns it takes to reach zero lash for each cylinder and compare to previous jobs, if one requires more or less it may be eating a lifter or dropping a seat and things like that are best dealt with in the driveway opposed to roadside in the middle of nowhere.
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[glutamodo]

[vw-man-with-saturn]

local vw tech said that the right front one needed to be adjusted. All this from revving the engine and listening wow!!

How can I tell for sure its a hydrualic lifter engine?

[Glenn]

[glutamodo]

Well, it's hard to know what previous owners and mechanics have done to the engine over the years. But, back when these were knew, VW made a visual change to the rocker arms at the same time they went hydraulic, a spacer bushing between rockers instead of the spring they used previously.

Also - what's your engine number?

[VDubTech]

他妈的格伦!!
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[Desertbusman]

At least it isn't Greek.
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71 Superbug
71 Westy

[Westfabulous]

1.5 turns past 0 lash please. Not 2 turns.
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"I will gladly pay you Tuesday for a hamburger today."

[busdaddy]

[aopisa]

[vw-man-with-saturn]

Here are my questions

If it was converted to solid lifter would it have to have the springs on the rocker shaft or still left with the solid spacer?

So to adjust I turn it in so its touching the valve and then clockwise another 1.5 turns?

[curtis4085]

[Wildthings]

[Mobiltune]

[glutamodo]

Sometimes you can just shine a light down a pushrod tube and see the retaining clip that holds the hydraulic lifter together.

[kkjellquist]

I followed Ratwell....I confirmed all 6 and did 1.5 turns;

Here are some clues to look for in order to help you determine if you have hydraulic lifters:

The engine case number begins with GE (bus) or CV (Vanagon).
The fan shroud has a similarly prefixed number.
There is a sticker on the fan shroud indicating zero lash.
The case lacks a bolt with a large 13mm triple square head on the right side of the case between the push rod tubes.
The rocker arms are separated by a wavy spacer washer instead of a spring.
The push rods are one piece steel instead of a large aluminum tube with small steel tips.
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(1978 2L FI, Pertronix, Hydraulic Lifters)

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