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Mr.Duncan Samba Member

Joined: May 12, 2012 Posts: 3543 Location: Houston, TX
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Posted: Thu Dec 26, 2013 7:36 am Post subject: Valve clearance? |
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I just noticed in my owners manual that it says set the valve clearance (all valves) to .004"
Why has everyone recommended doing .006"?
Should I switch to maybe doing a .005" ? _________________ (Owner) www.vintagecarleds.com
Red 1971 Squareback Thread
Red 1966 Beetle Thread
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1971 Green Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Ghia (sold)
1971 Blue Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Java Green Std Beetle (sold)
1971 Red Squareback (sold)
1966 Red Beetle |
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johnnypan Samba Member

Joined: October 24, 2007 Posts: 7431 Location: sackamenna
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Posted: Thu Dec 26, 2013 8:59 am Post subject: |
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Use the 'go-no go" to achieve a dead on .006..if a .005 slides in (go) but a .007 doesn't (no go) then you are exactly .006..
IMO don't set .004,these engines close valve gap with wear..an exact .006 is as tight as I would go. |
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ashman40 Samba Member

Joined: February 16, 2007 Posts: 16617 Location: North Florida, USA
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Posted: Thu Dec 26, 2013 9:35 am Post subject: |
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If you are accurate and diligent, you can use 0.004" for your valve gap. This as the published standard in the late '60s. The maintenance calls for checking and setting valve gap at each oil change (3months/3000mi).
Most people failed to check THAT often and the valve adjustment went too long between checks. The valve gap would drop to zero and the valves would not fully close. Since the primary way valves release their heat is through the valve seats the valves would overheat and burn/crack. All because the owners failed to maintain the proper valve gap. VW changed the spec to 0.006" which allows more time between valve adjustments and fewer burned valves.
(at least this is the story I heard).
BTW, this is one of the reasons most car makers switched to hydraulic lifters instead of solid lifters. Hydraulic lifters are basically self adjusting. _________________ AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!} |
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Mr.Duncan Samba Member

Joined: May 12, 2012 Posts: 3543 Location: Houston, TX
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Posted: Thu Dec 26, 2013 9:40 am Post subject: |
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ashman40 wrote: |
If you are accurate and diligent, you can use 0.004" for your valve gap. This as the published standard in the late '60s. The maintenance calls for checking and setting valve gap at each oil change (3months/3000mi).
Most people failed to check THAT often and the valve adjustment went too long between checks. The valve gap would drop to zero and the valves would not fully close. Since the primary way valves release their heat is through the valve seats the valves would overheat and burn/crack. All because the owners failed to maintain the proper valve gap. VW changed the spec to 0.006" which allows more time between valve adjustments and fewer burned valves.
(at least this is the story I heard).
BTW, this is one of the reasons most car makers switched to hydraulic lifters instead of solid lifters. Hydraulic lifters are basically self adjusting. |
I check/adjust mine every 2k miles _________________ (Owner) www.vintagecarleds.com
Red 1971 Squareback Thread
Red 1966 Beetle Thread
---------------------------------------------------
1971 Green Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Ghia (sold)
1971 Blue Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Java Green Std Beetle (sold)
1971 Red Squareback (sold)
1966 Red Beetle |
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andk5591 Samba Member

Joined: August 29, 2005 Posts: 16804 Location: State College, PA
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Posted: Thu Dec 26, 2013 10:35 am Post subject: |
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This is all assuming you have stock pushrods and not chromoly........Those get set to loose 0. _________________ D-Dubya Manx clone 1914. Ex wifes car.
Rosie 65 bug - My mostly stock daily driver.
Woodie 69 VW woodie (Hot VWs 7/12).
"John's car" 64 VW woodie - The first ever
Maxine 61 Cal-look bug - Ex-wifes car.
66 bug project - Real patina & Suby conversion
There's more, but not keeping them... |
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Mr.Duncan Samba Member

Joined: May 12, 2012 Posts: 3543 Location: Houston, TX
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Posted: Thu Dec 26, 2013 10:53 am Post subject: |
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andk5591 wrote: |
This is all assuming you have stock pushrods and not chromoly........Those get set to loose 0. |
yes stock. _________________ (Owner) www.vintagecarleds.com
Red 1971 Squareback Thread
Red 1966 Beetle Thread
---------------------------------------------------
1971 Green Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Ghia (sold)
1971 Blue Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Java Green Std Beetle (sold)
1971 Red Squareback (sold)
1966 Red Beetle |
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gt1953 Samba Member

Joined: May 08, 2002 Posts: 13948 Location: White Mountains Arizona
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Posted: Thu Dec 26, 2013 2:10 pm Post subject: |
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If everything is stock on the engine the do set the Valves to .006. Like described above. .005 fits and .007 does not its OK. _________________ Volkswagen: We tune what we drive.
Numbers Matching VW's are getting harder to find. Source out the most Stock vehicle and keep that way. You will be glad you did.
72 type 1
72 Squareback
({59 Euro bug, 62, 63, 67, 68, 69, 73 type ones 68 & 69 type two, 68 Ghia all sold}) |
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Mr.Duncan Samba Member

Joined: May 12, 2012 Posts: 3543 Location: Houston, TX
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Posted: Thu Dec 26, 2013 2:14 pm Post subject: |
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gt1953 wrote: |
If everything is stock on the engine the do set the Valves to .006. Like described above. .005 fits and .007 does not its OK. |
cool.
Just understanding:
.005 Slides in SUPER EASY (yet falls out if I let go of the feeler gauge set)
.006 slides in slightly firm (yet hangs & does not fall if i let go of the set)
.007 Does not go in AT ALL (even with firm pressure will not slide in) _________________ (Owner) www.vintagecarleds.com
Red 1971 Squareback Thread
Red 1966 Beetle Thread
---------------------------------------------------
1971 Green Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Ghia (sold)
1971 Blue Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Java Green Std Beetle (sold)
1971 Red Squareback (sold)
1966 Red Beetle |
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Glenn73 Samba Member

Joined: May 30, 2011 Posts: 1191 Location: Iowa
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Tim Donahoe Samba Member

Joined: December 08, 2012 Posts: 11793 Location: Redding, CA
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Posted: Thu Dec 26, 2013 3:29 pm Post subject: |
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Seems like the .004 gap was for older engines where the gap actually increased as the engine warmed up to .006. Seems weird to me, though.
I've always set my valves to .006.
Tim |
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drs1023 Samba Member
Joined: October 20, 2011 Posts: 1682 Location: Georgia, USA
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Posted: Thu Dec 26, 2013 7:03 pm Post subject: |
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Quote: |
Seems like the .004 gap was for older engines where the gap actually increased as the engine warmed up to .006 |
Huh? Haven't heard that one. As engine heats up, the valve lash will close up due to metal expanding when heated. Back in the late 70's, I had a service booklet (not Bentley's or Muir) which called for .004" exhaust and .008" on the exhaust. |
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gt1953 Samba Member

Joined: May 08, 2002 Posts: 13948 Location: White Mountains Arizona
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Posted: Thu Dec 26, 2013 7:28 pm Post subject: |
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Mr.Duncan
I like your description the feeling of the feeler gauge. That's about how I have done it. _________________ Volkswagen: We tune what we drive.
Numbers Matching VW's are getting harder to find. Source out the most Stock vehicle and keep that way. You will be glad you did.
72 type 1
72 Squareback
({59 Euro bug, 62, 63, 67, 68, 69, 73 type ones 68 & 69 type two, 68 Ghia all sold}) |
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flyboat Samba Member
Joined: April 21, 2010 Posts: 2752 Location: Bath NC
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Posted: Thu Dec 26, 2013 7:37 pm Post subject: |
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If you hang around your engine long enough, you'll find that .005 or even .004 will work best on your engine. There is a good amount of variances in these engines. Depending on how yours is set up, the lash could vary .001.002 for best performance. I would look at .004 for intake and maybe just a touch more for exhaust.. Again, the more you do it the more you learn what your engine likes. _________________ 79 super Vert
62 Ragtop Bug
66 tintop Westy
Porsche 914
09 Z06 Vette track car |
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wayne1230cars Samba Member

Joined: April 05, 2010 Posts: 2692 Location: Canada
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Posted: Thu Dec 26, 2013 8:15 pm Post subject: |
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drs1023 wrote: |
Quote: |
Seems like the .004 gap was for older engines where the gap actually increased as the engine warmed up to .006 |
Huh? Haven't heard that one. As engine heats up, the valve lash will close up due to metal expanding when heated. Back in the late 70's, I had a service booklet (not Bentley's or Muir) which called for .004" exhaust and .008" on the exhaust. |
The 1958-1960 Bentley manual specifically states that valve clearance increases as the 36 hp engine warms up. I was really puzzled by this claim but I have tested it and found it to be true especially for the exhaust valves.
This of course is not true for the newer engines where valve clearance decreases as engine warms up. I have heard the suggestion that this was because of the different style of push rod that 36 hp's had with a wooden interior core?? Not sure.
The Bentley manual even gives a different valve clearance for when the 36 hp engine is not stone cold to compensate for the increasing clearance. With a cold engine, suggested clearance was .004. I have tried both the .004 and .006 adjustments on my 36 hp and really can't really feel much of a difference, perhaps a little noisier with .006.
The .006 clearance with engine stone cold is good advice.
_________________ 1960 beetle
1970 beetle convertible |
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wayne1230cars Samba Member

Joined: April 05, 2010 Posts: 2692 Location: Canada
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Posted: Thu Dec 26, 2013 8:24 pm Post subject: |
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Even the owner's manual for 36 hp equipped cars stated that "valve clearance increases as engine warms up. ( 4th paragraph under 'Valve adjustment')
_________________ 1960 beetle
1970 beetle convertible |
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drs1023 Samba Member
Joined: October 20, 2011 Posts: 1682 Location: Georgia, USA
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Posted: Fri Dec 27, 2013 5:29 am Post subject: |
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I have only actually seen two 36 HP engines in my life, and I didn't work on either. Thanks for your correction. |
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Juanito84 Samba Member

Joined: March 17, 2012 Posts: 2436 Location: Colorado Mountains
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Posted: Fri Dec 27, 2013 9:45 pm Post subject: |
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My 1971 manual states .004" for both intake and exhaust. I have a Haynes manual that says VW changed their tolerances for all previous .004" lashes to .006". _________________ If a water cooled engine cools its water with air, isn't it just an overcomplicated air cooled engine? |
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AirDirect Samba Member
Joined: November 03, 2010 Posts: 431 Location: Powderly TX
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Posted: Fri Dec 27, 2013 10:54 pm Post subject: Valve clearance |
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Noah's owners manual for the 1972 Std Beetle has a pasted in supplement that changes it from .004 to .006 on both intake and exhaust valves.
It also has a sticker on the doghouse just behind the A/C compressor that shows valve clearance of .006 .
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1103641.jpg |
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Aussiebug Samba Member
Joined: June 03, 2002 Posts: 2162 Location: Adelaide Australia
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Posted: Fri Dec 27, 2013 11:54 pm Post subject: |
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ashman40 wrote: |
If you are accurate and diligent, you can use 0.004" for your valve gap. This as the published standard in the late '60s. The maintenance calls for checking and setting valve gap at each oil change (3months/3000mi).
Most people failed to check THAT often and the valve adjustment went too long between checks. VW changed the spec to 0.006" which allows more time between valve adjustments and fewer burned valves.
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Ashman is exactly right.
If you check your valve clearances regularly, then you can safely use .004 on most aircooled VW engines.
The standard setting was changed to .006 to allow for some slackness in maintenance.
I have always used .004 on all my engines (1200 40hp, 1500sp and 1600 twin port), checking them every 3000 miles, and have never had any valve issues. The engines run a bit quieter with the .004 setting. _________________ Rob
Rob and Dave's aircooled VW pages
Repairs and maintenance for the home mechanic
http://www.vw-resource.com |
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goober Samba Member
Joined: May 03, 2003 Posts: 1240
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Posted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 6:14 am Post subject: |
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I like to set mine to the loose side. With the cylinder at TDC on compression, I place a .006" feeler gauge between the adjusting screw and valve stem. I rock the rocker arm back and forth and adjust until I feel no more play. This makes for a free-feeling .006". I may leave the exhausts with even a slight amount more play in summer. I adjust my valves every 6000 miles, sometimes more. For the life of the engine, I've never had to add clearance, only had to take up clearance.
This may create a little more wear on the valve train although the screw tips still have a nice radius (I use OEM harden screws). I've always felt that when I didn't hear the valves clacking away I would be in trouble. I'd trade a little noise and wear for a sucked valve any day. |
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