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The Stupid Question Thread
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EVfun
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2024 10:11 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

BCE56 wrote:
EVfun wrote:
BCE56 wrote:
Assuming a properly calibrated speedometer:
What is engine RPM at red shift points on speedo?

Depends on what transaxle you have and the diameter of your rear tires.

If your speedometer is stock it generally reads slightly high, in my experience


Frankenbug has stock size tires, 4-speed manual IRS w/ 4.125 R&P.
Speedo reads about 10% higher than actual speed.


If your speedometer is marked at 16mph, 32mph, and 48mph, like the 40 horse ones I'm familiar with, then your actual speeds in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd at the indicated shift points would be 3300 rpm, 3600 rpm, and 3300 rpm. If your speedometer reads 10% high then subtract about 300 rpm.
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BCE56
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2024 1:12 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

[quote=]Assuming a properly calibrated speedometer:
What is engine RPM at red shift points on speedo?
Depends on what transaxle you have and the diameter of your rear tires.

If your speedometer is stock it generally reads slightly high, in my experience[

Frankenbug has stock size tires, 4-speed manual IRS w/ 4.125 R&P.
Speedo reads about 10% higher than actual speed.

If your speedometer is marked at 16mph, 32mph, and 48mph, like the 40 horse ones I'm familiar with, then your actual speeds in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd at the indicated shift points would be 3300 rpm, 3600 rpm, and 3300 rpm. If your speedometer reads 10% high then subtract about 300 rpm.[/quote]

Thanks.
Now- what about that 10% speedo error?
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RMD3819
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2024 12:09 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

What is this cable?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2024 12:43 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

RMD3819 wrote:
What is this cable?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

What's the other end attached to? That might lead to a better answer.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2024 12:51 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

RMD3819 wrote:
What is this cable?

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=376395&highlight=thermostat+cable
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RMD3819
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2024 12:59 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
RMD3819 wrote:
What is this cable?

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=376395&highlight=thermostat+cable


Thanks. I can see this is another thing for the list. I just bought this and it wasn’t attached to anything.

In reading through the other threads is it mainly needed for cold weather/heat?
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2024 1:32 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

RMD3819 wrote:
busdaddy wrote:
RMD3819 wrote:
What is this cable?

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=376395&highlight=thermostat+cable


Thanks. I can see this is another thing for the list. I just bought this and it wasn’t attached to anything.

In reading through the other threads is it mainly needed for cold weather/heat?

It's for any climate on earth, especially with today's modern fuel blends, a warm aircleaner and manifold atomizes the fuel better making driving smoother and giving better mileage.
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T1SuperNoob
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2024 1:31 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

What's the norm in regard to painting an engine? I'm thinking I want to have my engine blacked out. Is there a consensus or best practice on methods/paints? Thanks!
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kpf
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2024 4:58 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

@T1SuperNoob, I think if there is a "norm" it would be to replicate what the factory did originally.

Those who want something different just follow their heart.

Probably the only rules would be to keep paint out of things which shouldn't be gummed up with paint, and use high-temp paint on exhaust, etc.
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T1SuperNoob
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2024 11:05 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

kpf wrote:
@T1SuperNoob, I think if there is a "norm" it would be to replicate what the factory did originally.

Those who want something different just follow their heart.

Probably the only rules would be to keep paint out of things which shouldn't be gummed up with paint, and use high-temp paint on exhaust, etc.


Thanks
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RMD3819
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2024 10:15 am    Post subject: Questions on inline fuses and diff. question on th oil check lig Reply with quote

The PO had an old Sanyo radio and installed a cigarette plug.

He installed a 30 amp inline fuse for the radio and a 3 amp inline for the cig plug.

I am replacing both of these and the question is since these are connected directly to the fuse box are inline fuses necessary?

Second question-does the oil dash light come on as a check when you turn the key to accessory or start? Mine does not come on (checked bulb) so I don’t waste time working on this if it doesn’t have a check test.

1969 Beetle non USA.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2024 10:23 am    Post subject: Re: Questions on inline fuses and diff. question on th oil check lig Reply with quote

RMD3819 wrote:
does the oil dash light come on as a check when you turn the key to accessory or start? Mine does not come on (checked bulb) so I don’t waste time working on this if it doesn’t have a check test.
1969 Beetle non USA.

Yes, the oil pressure warning light should be on when the key is in the "Run" position.

Leave key in run position, pull wire off the oil sending switch and touch that to engine bare metal, and if the light then comes on where it didn't before, then there's an "open" in the sending switch, so that must be replaced.


RMD3819 wrote:
The PO had an old Sanyo radio and installed a cigarette plug.

He installed a 30 amp inline fuse for the radio and a 3 amp inline for the cig plug.

I am replacing both of these and the question is since these are connected directly to the fuse box are inline fuses necessary?

If the cigarette lighter socket is actually going to be used for heating up a lighter, then that should have the 30-amp inline fuse; very little amps are needed for stuff like phone chargers, radar detectors, etc. If not used as an actual lighter, the fuse can be smaller or simply "fed" from a fuse in the fuse box.

In reality, the fuse in the fuse box should be sufficient for a stereo. Many aftermarket relatively-modern stereos have a red wire for switched power and a yellow wire for "always hot" voltage for the station memory and clock, and each has a small inline fuse present, like 3 amps.
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Lost69Convertible
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2024 12:04 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I'm replacing a seized rear wheel cylinder. I have an ATE replacement cylinder being delivered by Heimlich. And a second cylinder as a spare.

I know the PO had the brakes completely overhauled shortly before I bought the Beetle in 2020. So I think the failed cylinder is not original and might be 5 or 6 years old. Here's a picture of the seized wheel cylinder:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Can anyone identify the brand from the logo? Is this brand known for failing quickly?

If it ain't broke ... <-- I tend to follow this philosophy. But if these cylinders are junk, I'll probably replace the other rear wheel cylinder as well. And maybe the front cylinders. Advice appreciated!
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2024 1:01 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Unless you know the new one to be exactly the same as the old one, replace them in pairs, so change both wheel cylinders on the same axle.
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Rome
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2024 4:28 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Lost, if you turn your photo upside-down, doesn't that logo resemble "Ate" (hoffvw gallery)?
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Ate stands for Alfred Teves. German pronunciation for the 3 separate letters sounds like Ah- tay- ay or Ah- teh- eh.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2024 3:51 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Hi Volks,

In the Beetle, why does the brake line run alongside the tunnel rather than in it? What was the engineering issue that drove that decision?

Thanks,
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Lost69Convertible
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2024 4:45 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Rome - I can't tell if the logo is ATE or not. When I get the old wheel cylinder off the car, I'll post a better picture here.

Is your picture an old can of ATE brake fluid?
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EVfun
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2024 6:06 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Goshenite wrote:
Hi Volks,

In the Beetle, why does the brake line run alongside the tunnel rather than in it? What was the engineering issue that drove that decision?

Thanks,

By design, the inside of the tunnel is closed up before it runs down the assembly line. These cars started out in '39 with cable operated brakes (ran inside the tunnel). Hydraulic brakes came later, VW added the hole in the Napoleon's hat to drive the master cylinder and the brake lines. Even into the early '60's the front plate of the frame head had the stamping needed for the cable brake system.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2024 1:34 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

After a lengthy break, I’m getting back to work on my 74 super beetle. I successfully got the motor to fire and idol but now I’m tackling the wiring. My first plan was to replace the entire harness however, the rear main was in decent shape, and it appears there is no aftermarket for the front harness.

I’m slowly putting power into the system, and so far so good I can get power to the wiper motor and lights with no sparks. However, when I try to start the engine, I hear a clicking at the relay in the attached photos. I tried to pull the pins and clean them but they’re too corroded so I’m assuming that needs to be replaced. Is that a stock item or an aftermarket cold start upgrade? Also I’ve been led to believe that relays are somewhat universal. If I have a five prong 30 amp 12 V relay would that work? Thanks in advance for the feedback.


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Cusser
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2024 2:05 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Hard start relay, not uncommon.

I don't use one on my 1970 or 1971.
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