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EVfun Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2012 Posts: 5493 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Sat Feb 24, 2024 10:11 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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BCE56 wrote: |
EVfun wrote: |
BCE56 wrote: |
Assuming a properly calibrated speedometer:
What is engine RPM at red shift points on speedo? |
Depends on what transaxle you have and the diameter of your rear tires.
If your speedometer is stock it generally reads slightly high, in my experience |
Frankenbug has stock size tires, 4-speed manual IRS w/ 4.125 R&P.
Speedo reads about 10% higher than actual speed. |
If your speedometer is marked at 16mph, 32mph, and 48mph, like the 40 horse ones I'm familiar with, then your actual speeds in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd at the indicated shift points would be 3300 rpm, 3600 rpm, and 3300 rpm. If your speedometer reads 10% high then subtract about 300 rpm. _________________
Wildthings wrote: |
As a general rule, cheap parts are the most expensive parts you can buy. |
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BCE56 Samba Member
Joined: July 16, 2013 Posts: 359 Location: So Cal
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Posted: Sat Feb 24, 2024 1:12 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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[quote=]Assuming a properly calibrated speedometer:
What is engine RPM at red shift points on speedo?
Depends on what transaxle you have and the diameter of your rear tires.
If your speedometer is stock it generally reads slightly high, in my experience[
Frankenbug has stock size tires, 4-speed manual IRS w/ 4.125 R&P.
Speedo reads about 10% higher than actual speed.
If your speedometer is marked at 16mph, 32mph, and 48mph, like the 40 horse ones I'm familiar with, then your actual speeds in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd at the indicated shift points would be 3300 rpm, 3600 rpm, and 3300 rpm. If your speedometer reads 10% high then subtract about 300 rpm.[/quote]
Thanks.
Now- what about that 10% speedo error? _________________ =BCE56=
'86 Syncro tintop
EJ22, OBD II early SC adapter plate conversion
Side project: '69 Frankenbug "It's alive!" |
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RMD3819 Samba Member
Joined: January 04, 2024 Posts: 29
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Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2024 12:09 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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What is this cable?
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67rustavenger Samba Member
Joined: February 24, 2015 Posts: 9779 Location: Oregon
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Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2024 12:43 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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RMD3819 wrote: |
What is this cable?
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What's the other end attached to? That might lead to a better answer. _________________ I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!
There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo! |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51173 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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RMD3819 Samba Member
Joined: January 04, 2024 Posts: 29
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Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2024 12:59 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Thanks. I can see this is another thing for the list. I just bought this and it wasn’t attached to anything.
In reading through the other threads is it mainly needed for cold weather/heat? |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51173 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2024 1:32 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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RMD3819 wrote: |
Thanks. I can see this is another thing for the list. I just bought this and it wasn’t attached to anything.
In reading through the other threads is it mainly needed for cold weather/heat? |
It's for any climate on earth, especially with today's modern fuel blends, a warm aircleaner and manifold atomizes the fuel better making driving smoother and giving better mileage. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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T1SuperNoob Samba Member
Joined: February 25, 2024 Posts: 26 Location: Puerto Rico & FL
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Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2024 1:31 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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What's the norm in regard to painting an engine? I'm thinking I want to have my engine blacked out. Is there a consensus or best practice on methods/paints? Thanks! |
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kpf Samba Member
Joined: March 01, 2017 Posts: 859 Location: California, US
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Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2024 4:58 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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@T1SuperNoob, I think if there is a "norm" it would be to replicate what the factory did originally.
Those who want something different just follow their heart.
Probably the only rules would be to keep paint out of things which shouldn't be gummed up with paint, and use high-temp paint on exhaust, etc. _________________ 1971 Super Beetle |
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T1SuperNoob Samba Member
Joined: February 25, 2024 Posts: 26 Location: Puerto Rico & FL
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Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2024 11:05 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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kpf wrote: |
@T1SuperNoob, I think if there is a "norm" it would be to replicate what the factory did originally.
Those who want something different just follow their heart.
Probably the only rules would be to keep paint out of things which shouldn't be gummed up with paint, and use high-temp paint on exhaust, etc. |
Thanks |
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RMD3819 Samba Member
Joined: January 04, 2024 Posts: 29
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Posted: Sun Mar 03, 2024 10:15 am Post subject: Questions on inline fuses and diff. question on th oil check lig |
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The PO had an old Sanyo radio and installed a cigarette plug.
He installed a 30 amp inline fuse for the radio and a 3 amp inline for the cig plug.
I am replacing both of these and the question is since these are connected directly to the fuse box are inline fuses necessary?
Second question-does the oil dash light come on as a check when you turn the key to accessory or start? Mine does not come on (checked bulb) so I don’t waste time working on this if it doesn’t have a check test.
1969 Beetle non USA. |
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Cusser Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006 Posts: 31392 Location: Hot Arizona
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Posted: Sun Mar 03, 2024 10:23 am Post subject: Re: Questions on inline fuses and diff. question on th oil check lig |
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RMD3819 wrote: |
does the oil dash light come on as a check when you turn the key to accessory or start? Mine does not come on (checked bulb) so I don’t waste time working on this if it doesn’t have a check test.
1969 Beetle non USA. |
Yes, the oil pressure warning light should be on when the key is in the "Run" position.
Leave key in run position, pull wire off the oil sending switch and touch that to engine bare metal, and if the light then comes on where it didn't before, then there's an "open" in the sending switch, so that must be replaced.
RMD3819 wrote: |
The PO had an old Sanyo radio and installed a cigarette plug.
He installed a 30 amp inline fuse for the radio and a 3 amp inline for the cig plug.
I am replacing both of these and the question is since these are connected directly to the fuse box are inline fuses necessary? |
If the cigarette lighter socket is actually going to be used for heating up a lighter, then that should have the 30-amp inline fuse; very little amps are needed for stuff like phone chargers, radar detectors, etc. If not used as an actual lighter, the fuse can be smaller or simply "fed" from a fuse in the fuse box.
In reality, the fuse in the fuse box should be sufficient for a stereo. Many aftermarket relatively-modern stereos have a red wire for switched power and a yellow wire for "always hot" voltage for the station memory and clock, and each has a small inline fuse present, like 3 amps. _________________ 1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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Lost69Convertible Samba Member
Joined: July 29, 2020 Posts: 449 Location: Rhode Island
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Posted: Wed Mar 06, 2024 12:04 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I'm replacing a seized rear wheel cylinder. I have an ATE replacement cylinder being delivered by Heimlich. And a second cylinder as a spare.
I know the PO had the brakes completely overhauled shortly before I bought the Beetle in 2020. So I think the failed cylinder is not original and might be 5 or 6 years old. Here's a picture of the seized wheel cylinder:
Can anyone identify the brand from the logo? Is this brand known for failing quickly?
If it ain't broke ... <-- I tend to follow this philosophy. But if these cylinders are junk, I'll probably replace the other rear wheel cylinder as well. And maybe the front cylinders. Advice appreciated! _________________ 1956 Beetle Ragtop: My Father's car
1969 Beetle Convertible: My first car. I loved it, I lost it, and I never got over it.
1979 Super Beetle Convertible |
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Q-Dog Samba Member
Joined: April 05, 2010 Posts: 8700 Location: Sunset, Louisiana
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Posted: Wed Mar 06, 2024 1:01 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Unless you know the new one to be exactly the same as the old one, replace them in pairs, so change both wheel cylinders on the same axle. _________________ Brian
'69 Dune Buggy
'69 Beetle Convertible
'70 Beetle |
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Rome Samba Member
Joined: June 02, 2004 Posts: 9657 Location: Pearl River, NY
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Posted: Wed Mar 06, 2024 4:28 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Lost, if you turn your photo upside-down, doesn't that logo resemble "Ate" (hoffvw gallery)?
Ate stands for Alfred Teves. German pronunciation for the 3 separate letters sounds like Ah- tay- ay or Ah- teh- eh. |
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Goshenite Samba Member
Joined: April 23, 2023 Posts: 19 Location: Northern Virginia
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Posted: Thu Mar 07, 2024 3:51 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Hi Volks,
In the Beetle, why does the brake line run alongside the tunnel rather than in it? What was the engineering issue that drove that decision?
Thanks, _________________ John
Restorer's Tip: Never screw a hole that has not been chased. |
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Lost69Convertible Samba Member
Joined: July 29, 2020 Posts: 449 Location: Rhode Island
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Posted: Thu Mar 07, 2024 4:45 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Rome - I can't tell if the logo is ATE or not. When I get the old wheel cylinder off the car, I'll post a better picture here.
Is your picture an old can of ATE brake fluid? _________________ 1956 Beetle Ragtop: My Father's car
1969 Beetle Convertible: My first car. I loved it, I lost it, and I never got over it.
1979 Super Beetle Convertible |
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EVfun Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2012 Posts: 5493 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Thu Mar 07, 2024 6:06 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Goshenite wrote: |
Hi Volks,
In the Beetle, why does the brake line run alongside the tunnel rather than in it? What was the engineering issue that drove that decision?
Thanks, |
By design, the inside of the tunnel is closed up before it runs down the assembly line. These cars started out in '39 with cable operated brakes (ran inside the tunnel). Hydraulic brakes came later, VW added the hole in the Napoleon's hat to drive the master cylinder and the brake lines. Even into the early '60's the front plate of the frame head had the stamping needed for the cable brake system. _________________
Wildthings wrote: |
As a general rule, cheap parts are the most expensive parts you can buy. |
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Sloanstavern Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2014 Posts: 35 Location: Chandler AZ
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Posted: Fri Mar 08, 2024 1:34 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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After a lengthy break, I’m getting back to work on my 74 super beetle. I successfully got the motor to fire and idol but now I’m tackling the wiring. My first plan was to replace the entire harness however, the rear main was in decent shape, and it appears there is no aftermarket for the front harness.
I’m slowly putting power into the system, and so far so good I can get power to the wiper motor and lights with no sparks. However, when I try to start the engine, I hear a clicking at the relay in the attached photos. I tried to pull the pins and clean them but they’re too corroded so I’m assuming that needs to be replaced. Is that a stock item or an aftermarket cold start upgrade? Also I’ve been led to believe that relays are somewhat universal. If I have a five prong 30 amp 12 V relay would that work? Thanks in advance for the feedback.
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Cusser Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006 Posts: 31392 Location: Hot Arizona
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