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south_island_surf
Samba Member
Joined: September 23, 2004
Posts: 149
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
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 Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2014 2:10 pm Post subject: Heater tube |
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Does anyone have recent experience replacing the main (longest) heater tube? I looked around online, and they don't seem to be currently available. Looks like KF put them out in the past maybe? I'm guessing I'll have to have a shop make one up for me...
Thanks.
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Art
My '65 single cab project:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=491474 |
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easy e
Samba Member
Joined: May 28, 2008
Posts: 3931
Location: 1 hr north of Santa Barbara
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| Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2014 2:58 pm Post subject: center heat pipe defrost tube |
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I bought a replacement piece from Wolfgang... it was about 1/8" thick... maybe not really... but waaaay too heavy duty.
Bus Depot cuts theirs in half to ship.
Here's the part number for your reference if you want to Google what's available: 211255785A
I ended up getting a stick from my local O'reilly's auto parts. The standard US outer diameter is 2.75".
Original outer dia. = 70 millimeters = 2.756 inches
I recommend 17 or 18 gauge.... thicker & it gets heavy.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/WAL0/4900...;ppt=C0022
I think less than half the 10' stick did the job & sold other half on Samba. I don't think O'reilly's has it in aluminized (low carbon only)... but may be available from another source. Check your local auto parts store or a muffler shop for a partial length stick.
I believe 10' stick was $34, including tax.
Don't forget one of these insulative wrap kits: http://jogrusa.com/products/heater-wrap-insulation-kit-50-67-bus
... and read this thread for some helpful tips on install:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=320691
Wrap kit calls for being sewn up alongh the length. I used a little bit of a few dollar roll of thin galvanized wire to perform the sewing and for putting a couple wire loops on the rear heater tube pieces. A key to making the sewing easy (no needle involved) is to just weave it through the material after using a leather hole punch (like this one in link below) on the smallest hole size (pinch together material with fingers, use hole punch, thread wire starting at one end tied off & by giving yourself enough slack to work in one direction, pulling taught as you go):
http://www.amazon.com/Leather-Hole-Punch-Heavy-2-0mm/dp/B000NK5VY2
e
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aka: Evan
Spreadsheet for Bus RPM, based on gearing & tire size (Excel format)
Searchable, click-navigable 1958 Bus Parts List |
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south_island_surf
Samba Member
Joined: September 23, 2004
Posts: 149
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
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curtis4085
Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2011
Posts: 4806
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2014 4:30 pm Post subject: |
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If you have more heat pipes rusted out I believe Alan Schofield or auto craft sells a whole kit
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Bruce Amacker
Samba Member
Joined: December 26, 2007
Posts: 1786
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
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south_island_surf
Samba Member
Joined: September 23, 2004
Posts: 149
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
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| Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2014 6:47 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks, guys.
Curtis, it's only the long tube. It still had the factory wrap on it; I think that encouraged the rust, although the section in front of it came out of the wrap looking mint:
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Art
My '65 single cab project:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=491474 |
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thomas.
Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2010
Posts: 1291
Location: South West (Pa.)
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| Posted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 4:29 am Post subject: |
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I used this link . I did it a little different. The guy in the link did his in two pieces but I made mine one piece. It fit so good in fact I haven't had to tack it or secure it.I got it at Napa and bought it a little long just to make sure. It was between 4 and 5 foot long and I cut about a foot off. I sprayed it with a good brand of primer for now and no surface rust so far but will probably spray it again. I think it was around $15. I know it was less than $20. I purchased the 2.5 inch piece BTW.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=499280 |
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paule
Samba Member
Joined: May 22, 2004
Posts: 24
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| Posted: Fri Feb 21, 2020 7:59 am Post subject: Re: Heater tube |
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I have an Autocraft replacement heater tube (bare steel). Wondering if I should use a high heat paint on the outside? Eventually I would like to get a heater tube wrap to get to factory standard.
I plan on replacing rear centre section and heater tube. mainly to seal up the rear rust holes and get better heat.
Any thoughts on this? what have others done. I haven't come across much info on painting the tube.
thx |
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Bruce Amacker
Samba Member
Joined: December 26, 2007
Posts: 1786
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
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Eric&Barb
Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2004
Posts: 24736
Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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| Posted: Fri Feb 21, 2020 11:54 am Post subject: Re: Heater tube |
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| Bruce Amacker wrote: |
| paule wrote: |
Wondering if I should use a high heat paint on the outside?
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I've just used regular car paint on both of mine, no issues from the heat. |
If you want to keep it from rusting up for as long as possible, use a cold galvanizing compound (primer) from a spray can. VW in the workshop manuals recommended such for the fresh air heat exchanger repairs.
https://www.airgas.com/p/RAD64000130
That is the best one we have found with highest zinc content. Anything below 85% zinc content is a waste of $$. Only downside is the primer does settle quickly and will spray like flocking if not shaken often enough just before using.
You want to starting shaking it up about a day before spraying. Going back to shake the can/s to be used every few hours while you are up and about during that time. Storing this primer or any other spray cans of paint on the side will help also. That way the pigment of the paint settles over the entire side of the can and not in the bottom where it becomes a much deeper and thusly harder to shake up mess that will even lock up the shaker ball requiring quite a lot of arm time shaking the ball loose. Storing the cans on their side the ball will come loose a lot quicker, making for less time and energy shaking up. More pigment will be stirred up due to not so much of it stuck in the narrow crevice of the domed bottom where the shaker ball can not fully reach.
To make a galvanic coating work properly to slow down rust to a very slow crawl, it must be sprayed onto clean bare steel to make a proper electrical connection to it. Salt water marine ships use ingots of zinc bolted to the hull to keep rust at a minimum this way. Ingots that need to be replaced regularly as they corrode away before the steel is much affected.
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paule
Samba Member
Joined: May 22, 2004
Posts: 24
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| Posted: Mon Feb 24, 2020 7:57 pm Post subject: Re: Heater tube |
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Wow, pretty great information. thanks for the replies. I am not as focused on perfection as I once was. Given the fact that my truck is loved more now than it ever has been (no winters, lives indoors). the new heater tube will most likely outlast me.
Will see if i can find some zinc based primer as mentioned. was planning on using a two part epoxy primer.
thanks again. |
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fluxcap
Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2006
Posts: 1969
Location: Newnan GA
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| Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2023 9:29 am Post subject: Re: Heater tube |
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Waking this post from a 3 year slumber. I’ve had my bus about 11 or so years and it’s always had a mangled rear cross brace. The prior owner had the replacement metal, and it’s only taken me 11 years to finally decide to tackle the replacement.
At some point the long heater tube was replaced and after removing it, I’m not sure what I have left.
This rotted tube piece here, is it what is left of the original long tube? Or is it part of the Y on the back side of the cross brace? (This is a panel bus, so there is no heater log). What I’m meaning is, will it (the part with the X) come out with the cross brace and leave me just the Y that I can then slide the new replacement long pipe into?
Further away pic to show the big picture
The replacement pipe I removed. Looks like it was flat sheet metal that was rolled into a tube and then held in shape with about 20 self tapping screws. Worked pretty good for what it’s worth.
Thanks for any insight!
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Eric - 1966 camper bus
"It's like, how much more black could this be, and the answer is none.......none more black." |
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Eric&Barb
Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2004
Posts: 24736
Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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| Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2023 10:43 am Post subject: Re: Heater tube |
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| fluxcap wrote: |
This rotted tube piece here, is it what is left of the original long tube? |
Verily!!
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fluxcap
Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2006
Posts: 1969
Location: Newnan GA
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| Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2023 10:48 am Post subject: Re: Heater tube |
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| Eric&Barb wrote: |
| fluxcap wrote: |
This rotted tube piece here, is it what is left of the original long tube? |
Verily!! |
Awesome. That’s a little good news then. The Y and what I can see of the inside looks to be in good shape. So maybe I’ll get lucky and just need the new long section. Thanks!
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Eric - 1966 camper bus
"It's like, how much more black could this be, and the answer is none.......none more black." |
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zuggbug
Samba Member
Joined: June 17, 2008
Posts: 3479
Location: Anderson SC
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| Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2023 10:52 am Post subject: Re: Heater tube |
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Eric,
glad to see you have awaken from your 3 year slumber.
hope all is well.
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fluxcap
Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2006
Posts: 1969
Location: Newnan GA
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| Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2023 10:57 am Post subject: Re: Heater tube |
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| zuggbug wrote: |
Eric,
glad to see you have awaken from your 3 year slumber.
hope all is well. |
Haha Paul. I was pulling the engine to do oil cooler seals and pulled the tank for a new sending unit. So I finally decided now would be a good time to tackle this. Rest of the chassis is great, but somebody must have drove over something at some point and tore that brace all up. We’re trying to get back to taking longer trips in the bus so maybe we will see you and Mary again sometime soon.
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Eric - 1966 camper bus
"It's like, how much more black could this be, and the answer is none.......none more black." |
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