Leaking swing axle boots

[FL-Frank]

The rear axle boots on my ‘67 Beetle leak gear oil...but only when the rear of the car is elevated on jack stands and the rear axles are drooping. Not an excessive amount of leaking, about an ounce per side on the drip pan after the car has been up on jackstands for a few days.

Is this “normal”, or is it a sign that the boots need to be replaced?
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“Tinker Toy” 1967 Savannah Beige Beetle Sedan...........Mostly Original Survivor
“Fritz” 1964 Gulf Blue Karmann Ghia Coupe...Complete Pan-Off Restoration SOLD

[bluebus86]

[mrmdls]

I believe the axle boots can weep when your car is jacked up as the angle of the axle tube stretching the top will compress the bottom of the boot. This can also cause a tear in the boot, which would require changing the boot.

With the car back on the ground, the boots should not weep or leak. If they do leak, replace them.
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75 model 110 (Basic Bug) - Project Daily Driver

[67rustavenger]

The boots should never leak. Jacked up, on the ground, or slammed to the ground.

If there's a leak anytime. The boot/s need to be replaced.

Last time I changed one I had the car on ramps. That got the axle tube damn near level and kept the new boot off of the frame horn.

Make sure to orient the seam in the 10 or 2 o'clock position.

Put the large end on the trans first and tighten the band. then if you can shove the small end toward the trans and tighten the band.

Job done.

Good Luck.
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[mrmdls]

Previous discussion regarding this:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=624324
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75 model 110 (Basic Bug) - Project Daily Driver

[KTPhil]

[mrmdls]

I'm in total agreement with you KTPhil! That's why I chose to add the link concerning the previous discussion on the subject. Weeping while the car is jacked up, with boots that are in good shape with no obvious tears do not necessarily require replacement of the boot(s).
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75 model 110 (Basic Bug) - Project Daily Driver

[herbie1200]

if they leak when car is jacked up they leak also during driving.

It can happen to have rear suspension fully extended, examples: hard emergency bralking, a small offroad, holes in the road, etc.

[EVfun]

I think I'll post here instead of start a new topic as I have a leaking axle boot too. I just installed the transaxle and filled it with gear oil to find that one of the boots leaks.

I thought it was the outer clamp on the axle tube, so I recleaned and tightened that being careful to have a tight seam. It still leaked and I cleaned it up and put a paper towel between the boot and the frame, so I could see where it leaked. I checked every day and wiped the trace of oil away and tightened the hose clamp a little more. Then I realized the lead didn't first wet the axle tube, the boot was wetted with oil first. I cleaned the area up with brake cleaner and started checking every 30 minutes with a bright light to find that the origin was a pin hole in the axle boot. It was tiny, as if made with a hypodermic needle, and was in the last bellow, facing down, next to the axle tube clamp. Anyway, I get to change the boot and I just filled the gearbox with synthetic oil, so...

How much oil do I need to removed from the swing axle gear box to remove the boot without that creating a continuing leak. The easy answer is lower than the large flange, but any good idea how much oil that is? I plan to use the gear oil pump in reverse and pump some of the new oil back out, then change the boot and pump it back in. Thanks for your help.
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[Cusser]

[67rustavenger]

EVfun,
I'd just jack up the car on the leaking side and wait a bit. Put a jack stand under that side.
Yea you're gonna loose a bit of gear lube that stays in the offending boot. But not much.

If you put your floor jack under the shock mount. It should lift the axle high enough to get the new (defective) boot off and the new (non-defective) one on.

FWIW, I apply a small bead of RTV to the sealing surface where the screws pass through the boot to seal the boot.

Don't bother sucking gear lube out of the transaxle. It's not worth the headache.

Good Luck.
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[ManyVDubs]

I'm going to need to be able to get under the car on a crawler to get this on.
Raising the car on one side with the erar wheel off is going to be tough. I'd rather raise the back and set it on jack stands then raise the wheel witht he floor jack under the lower shock mount to get the jack it up and raise the axle level. I could raise the other side another notch or two higher on the jack stands to compensate for the weight of the tire that will be hanging lower on that side. Having the car tip over would not be bueno. The extra jack stand height should offset the center of gravity. Tough job without a lift. Nobody left in town to fix it.
What do you all think? At age 65 it's hard to just get up off the floor. On a 1 to 10 how would this rank for an intermediate mechanic with plenty of tools for this? Thanks
_________________
ManyVDubs

In the Garage:
2014 R-Line Beetle - 6 Speed Manual
1968 Beetle - 4 Speed Manual

Long Gone:
1959 Deluxe Beetle with a wind up clock in the square where gas gauges went later on.
1968 T1 Conv, 1973 SB Conv, 1974 Orange Sport Bug, 1977 Rabbit, 1985 Golf, 1989 Brazilian made Fox, 1990 GTI, 1991 G60 Corrado, 1992 Jetta, 1994 Golf, 2004 Jetta 2.5L 5 Speed Manual

[67rustavenger]

Place the floor jack under the shock tower as noted above. Also place a jack stand under the torsion bar housing, gotta be safe!
The car won't tip over!

You want the axle housing (tube) level to get the boot installed.

Changing the axle boots is about a 2-3 on the difficulty level. You should be fine.

Clock the seem in the 2 or 10 o'clock position. So it won't flex open when the axle is fully extended or or compressed.

I turn 65 tomorrow and this task is quite easy to accomplish in a day if you take your time and work carefully.
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[Busstom]

[ManyVDubs]

[quote="Changing the axle boots is about a 2-3 on the difficulty level. You should be fine..[/quote]

Thanks for the vote of confidence. It helps and is motivating. I'm thinking of placing jack stands on both sides to get the rear up then jacking up the axle so it is level. Stretching my arms all the way jn there is going to be tough. The back will give out before all the bolts are put through the boot. If I could use a floor creeper and slide under the car that might easier but I don't know.

I also just saw a video that if you place a bolt between the spring plate and the torsion housing it will lock the wheels into level position so they don't drop when the car is jacked up. That might be worth a try?

I am seeking the path of least resistance. It is a left side boot so the clutch cable and others are in the way as well.
_________________
ManyVDubs

In the Garage:
2014 R-Line Beetle - 6 Speed Manual
1968 Beetle - 4 Speed Manual

Long Gone:
1959 Deluxe Beetle with a wind up clock in the square where gas gauges went later on.
1968 T1 Conv, 1973 SB Conv, 1974 Orange Sport Bug, 1977 Rabbit, 1985 Golf, 1989 Brazilian made Fox, 1990 GTI, 1991 G60 Corrado, 1992 Jetta, 1994 Golf, 2004 Jetta 2.5L 5 Speed Manual

[Busstom]

[ManyVDubs]

[ManyVDubs]

[Busstom]

You'll be fine, it's okay to go under the car, just be sure to have a stand, AND keep the jack somewhere under there too (somewhere solid). And for extra insurance, grab the spare tire, stack it on the left tire that you remove, and slide them under the pan too, close to the center-rear. Then you're super safe. Hell, you can probably nap under there if you want. Just be smarter than the car and ensure there's no way it can fall on you. You're probably gonna wanna get close to it and get a good eyeball on what's going on when you align and tighten the big inner clamp, heater box will be in the way too.
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My name's Steve and it's pronounced "Bust 'em" (cuz people think I'm Tom)

[67conv]