67 Bus Shift Coupler Install Issue...

[Jack Frisch]

Any help appreciated:


Link

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1958 Beetle orig. 6 volt 36 hp engine, body & pan, Black w/red/off white inter., Orig. VW wood roof rack and orig. rear luggage rack.
1967 13 Window Walk-thru Deluxe Bus, stock 1500 engine, Titan Red/Grey, Platinum Mesh interior, orig. & stock
1966 GT350H Shelby Orig. low mileage car

[Eric&Barb]

Either fix the front linkage so you can remove it.

OR

1. Remove rear apron.

2. Unbolt the front transaxle mount from the body.

3. Install a floor jack under the engine.

4. Unbolt the rear transaxle cradle from the body.

5. Use a Come A Long or winch, or ratchet strap, anchored to a large object like a truck, tree, bolder to pull the transaxle and engine back an inch (25mm) or so. Do beware not to get fingers in places that might get trapped in, if this pulling fails suddenly.

6. Install the shift coupler. This works well for installing front transaxle mount when that fails.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[Kommercial]

Just worked through this issue last night on my 67.
I would definitely look into disconnecting the shift rod up behind the front wheels at the center of the bus, first. That coupler is often fused together with rust, but mine slid apart surprisingly easy, so you might get lucky. Once that's separated you can pull the rear long shiftrod forward to obtain enough room for the rear coupler install. Good time to put a new front shift birdie and boot on the front half of the long shift rod. The rear birdie will have to wait unless you get serious about pulling the shift rod completely out, but you could also boot that rear side for now as well to keep out moisture, at least.

Also check the wear on your 66-67 front most Bushing while apart. Plugs into the front face of your front shift rod.

[chrisflstf]

If you have to cut the front coupler off to remove it, new ones are only $10

https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=211711169A

[BonTonRoulet]

I've replaced the coupler in my 66 microbus with that same part without taking all kinds of stuff loose.

And I wouldn't do any of that 6 step procedure above.

You need a helper. Draw them a diagram of the shift pattern. Have your helper put the shift lever in either 2nd, 4th or reverse. That will move the front shift rod forward, and since you are under the bus you can see what is going on. See if you can't get the front part of the coupler on that rod and get the grub screw in the front part of the coupler. Then move the gear shift forward to select 1st or 3rd which will move the coupler towards the transmission and get it aligned for the grub screw. You can even put a large pair of vice grips on the hockey stick forward of the grub screw indent so you don't scratch up the part that slides in the brass sleeve and contributes to a gear oil leak move the vice grips side to side as you push towards the transmission to find either 1st or 3rd gear in the transmission. This isn't difficult.

Good Luck!
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Never argue with an Idiot. They'll only bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.

[Split 66']

Since you have a '67, it should the same as my '66.

I agree with those above who said to look on the shift rod tube towards the front cab, you'll find a square grub screw seemingly in the middle of nowhere on the shift rod tube, if you remove that bolt, the shift rod will retract inside of the tube, giving you enough room to install the coupler, without removing anything else. Very easy to realign, alone, if you do it this way.



I have to get out there and do this again, too, just got my new rubber coupler from Lind.
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"OG = Original German" -- TheSamba.com dictionary

[velvetgreen]

I have no personal experience or agenda with this product but it looks beefier than most that are on the market

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1632696

[Eric&Barb]

[Jack Frisch]

UPDATE as of 8-24-2025

The front couple screw's head snapped off.
Drilling it out will be a pain, to say the least.
So I will be cutting through on of the rods and removing them both.
and replacing them with brand new shifter rods, bushing etc etc from Wolfsburg West

This will all mew to get back on the road asap and enjoy the rest of the summer and falll.


Thanks for all your help!!!
Jack
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1958 Beetle orig. 6 volt 36 hp engine, body & pan, Black w/red/off white inter., Orig. VW wood roof rack and orig. rear luggage rack.
1967 13 Window Walk-thru Deluxe Bus, stock 1500 engine, Titan Red/Grey, Platinum Mesh interior, orig. & stock
1966 GT350H Shelby Orig. low mileage car

[70bus]

Removing and reinstalling the long middle rod means dropping motor and tranny, which may take longer than drilling the screws. If you go this route, save the old rods to compare the placement of screw holes, as some people got shift rods with holes in wrong place resulting in shifting issues.
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Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people." - Robert Williams

Raoul the 65 singlecab

Karl the 70 nine-seater

[mdege]

I had the same problem.

Here is what I did:
1. I cut apart the ring, just two cuts and the thing cam off. The ring can be purchased.
2. I cut the front shift rod carefully lengths wise,just an inch or two, this will relieve the tension between the two parts due to the rust between them. the I could pull them apart.
3. The I inserted a piece of copper pipe into the front rod and welded the cut back together. And cleaned up the weld.
4. I made a new ring on my lathe. Bus, as mentioned, this part can also be bought.
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- Michael

1965 21F: Restoration of a former '65 firetruck
1963 Typ3 Notchback project
1988 Multivan Magnum 112i
1984 Standard: My son wanted a bug for his first car

[Kommercial]

If you end up needing to remove the longer rear shift rod, you can pull that shift rod out through the front without dropping the engine/tranny if you remove the bolt/nut/swing arm and then push the center pin down to create clearance. Then there will be just enough room to flex the shift rod down and out through the front once it gets out of the guide tube enough to allow it to flex.

[Stocknazi]

[70bus]

OP may be at the point many of us have reached: saying
"screw it; I'm starting over" and replacing all the components that are giving us guff! In which case, try getting it all out the front way (thanks for the tip!); from there, you can work on it easier if you want to remove the busted screw. Decide whether rusty OG quality parts are still better than repros (they often are), clean up and reinstall. Or at least have them as a guide to check repros... and if intact, stash them as spares or put them in the classifieds.
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Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people." - Robert Williams

Raoul the 65 singlecab

Karl the 70 nine-seater

[chrisflstf]

Since 66 and later use a different bushing for the shifter, you might be able to remove the shifter and get enough forward movement on the shift rod to get the coupler in place

[Jack Frisch]

UPDATE 8-25-2025

Yes, I made a mistake in my previous update, I know see I need to remove the font coupller no matter what.
_________________
1958 Beetle orig. 6 volt 36 hp engine, body & pan, Black w/red/off white inter., Orig. VW wood roof rack and orig. rear luggage rack.
1967 13 Window Walk-thru Deluxe Bus, stock 1500 engine, Titan Red/Grey, Platinum Mesh interior, orig. & stock
1966 GT350H Shelby Orig. low mileage car

[Jack Frisch]

UPDATE 8-26-2025

Front coupler removed
The two rods are rusted together, I'm working ion separating them.
But, I might end up needing to cut the front rod and cut away its rusted end and replace it with a new front rod.

We'll see.
_________________
1958 Beetle orig. 6 volt 36 hp engine, body & pan, Black w/red/off white inter., Orig. VW wood roof rack and orig. rear luggage rack.
1967 13 Window Walk-thru Deluxe Bus, stock 1500 engine, Titan Red/Grey, Platinum Mesh interior, orig. & stock
1966 GT350H Shelby Orig. low mileage car

[70bus]

Front shift rods are common, new and used. Those long middle shift rods, uncut, are very hard to find. Try to save that one if a sacrifice must be made.
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Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people." - Robert Williams

Raoul the 65 singlecab

Karl the 70 nine-seater

[Jack Frisch]

Thanks Craig!
Agreed,

I'm confident if I cut the front rod, I can then removed the rusted end attached ti the long rod easily with a grinding wheel, slicing and removing sections one at a time
Any idea how far the long rod inserts into the front rod?
How far does it go past the hold for the set screw?
_________________
1958 Beetle orig. 6 volt 36 hp engine, body & pan, Black w/red/off white inter., Orig. VW wood roof rack and orig. rear luggage rack.
1967 13 Window Walk-thru Deluxe Bus, stock 1500 engine, Titan Red/Grey, Platinum Mesh interior, orig. & stock
1966 GT350H Shelby Orig. low mileage car

[Jack Frisch]

looks like there is not a long length that joins them, which means theres not a lot to pull apart to separate them

I'm inspired not to keep trying to separate them! and not cut anything
_________________
1958 Beetle orig. 6 volt 36 hp engine, body & pan, Black w/red/off white inter., Orig. VW wood roof rack and orig. rear luggage rack.
1967 13 Window Walk-thru Deluxe Bus, stock 1500 engine, Titan Red/Grey, Platinum Mesh interior, orig. & stock
1966 GT350H Shelby Orig. low mileage car