Blown Engine (1500cc Air Cooled) - Advice Needed

[foxacoon]

Hi All,

Looking to get an experts opinion.

I recently purchased a Brazilian bus from a company listed on these forums, and after about 100 miles of driving, the engine blew and I ended up throwing a rod.

The bus I purchased is a 1975 air-cooled 1500cc Brazilian Bus (restored). Upon delivery, I put 20w50 oil in it.

As I was driving back from getting the bus inspected in preparation for registeration/title application, I noticed a significant decrease in power and a loud knocking in the engine bay. I was on the highway and attempted to take the first exit, but before I got to the next exit, the bus came to a hault, a loud pop noise and a puff of white smoke shot out the rear.

After I had my bus towed home, I noticed a big hole in the block - a clear indication that I threw a rod.

So, my question is... where would you recommend me looking to get a new motor? I have a little experience working on my vintage land rovers, but not a ton.

You can see pictures attached.

[Glenn]

So you have to assume the long block is a total loss.

You could buy a rebuilt 1500/1600 single port long block and move the tins, intake, exhaust, generator, distributor, carb over and that might be the cheapest option.

Or you could go with a 1600 or 1776 dual port which will require new tins, shroud and intake.

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Last year we had a customer with a similar problem, 1975 Brazilian Bus with a seized 1500SP. Case as already cut twice, crank and rods were gone and heads not good. After discussing the cost to build a new engine or buy a long block... it was cheaper to buy a 1600SP long block and move all the good parts over to the new engine.

Obviously, we could not warranty the engine since we didn't build it but we've dealt with this vendor in the past and have had good results.

http://steelbugin.com/
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[gt1953]

You have to step back and decide are you going to drive this alot, road trip it or going to keep the stock look in the engine bay area.
A 1776 would be a good overall choice and a quality engine builder may do it in a single port to keep the stock look.
What ever you do do not cheap out once and done.
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[94touring]

Great opportunity to go with something larger. I drove a slow Brazilian around for a bit and quickly went with something that could manage highway speeds better. Not knowing the condition, I also opted to send the transaxle out as well and regeared to match the new engine. You'll want to switch to 10w30 fyi.

[Q-Dog]

1776 single port with a cheater cam.
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[Bugged Again]

Do you plan to do the removal and installation yourself? Also, your location may make a difference. If your area has some VW shops with good reviews you may want to go with them.

Otherwise, get some how to VW books and ask questions. I’d suggest you gain some VW experience by pulling you’re engine out first. Then see how you feel about doing the install.

[Glenn]

[slalombuggy]

Are you expecting to drive at modern speeds for extended periods of time on the highways and byways. If so I would look at an engine displacement of at least 2 liters, twin carbs and upgraded factory cooling.

[johnnyvw164]

IMO, the two most important factors are budget and how much you are willing to work on maintaining the engine. Dual carbs will give more power but have to be able to tune them as needed. No sense looking to do a big engine if you have a very tight budget

As Glenn mentioned, if you can find a good condition running 1600, it would be the quickest and cheapest solution.

[buckswilde]

Just go with a stock 1600 DP or SP. There are many shops all over the US that can handle that with no problem. I sold a strong running used 1600 DP turnkey last year for $600. It's an affordable solution that will have a bit more power than the 1500.

[nsracing]

First of all, why did you use that thick oil?

And where are you located? Motors are all over the place in all flavors. Choose your poison.

[foxacoon]

[Cusser]

[wcfvw69]

My advice is do some serious vetting of the business or vendor before pulling the trigger and buying an engine from a rebuilder. There's still some good engine builders out there but there's also some awful ones with horrific customer service. Obviously some do shoddy work using the cheapest parts they can find. These forums have a sellers feedback section. A couple engine builders come to mind that take your order and money and then never meet promised completion/shipping dates. Some miss by months and months while providing excuse after excuse.

If you have the capability to build an engine yourself, that's the perfect world. When I rebuilt my engines, I was able to take my time and double and triple check everything during assembly. I also knew the quality of every part I installed. There's nothing more satisfying than rebuilding or building an engine and lighting it off the first time.

In regards to that thick 50 weight oil, wow! Oil that thick can cause oil pressure issues where the oil relief valve won't open and allow oil to the oil cooler unless the oil gets HOT and thins out. I ran 10-40 in hot Arizona on a freshly overhauled engine I rebuilt. I was running hot oil temps. I dropped to 10-30 and saw a big decrease in oil temps. Now I only run 10-30.

Here's a thread that discusses the oil system- https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=280293
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[Dusty1]

[foxacoon]

[94touring]

I always see FB post from some guy in Katy Tx with rebuilt blocks. Not sure of the quality of his work but something to look into.

[Glenn]

[nextgen]

Well it is a beautiful bus and it is worth a lot of money. Compared to a Bug, the bus is massive with bug engine.. As some of the guys said you need a larger engine and be aware of what it can push at highway speeds . The weight of the bus empty vs it loaded for a trip with people. Just another thing to think about.

Don't worry guys I am not going to T-4.
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[Dusty1]