85 Build Show and Tell

[whatwrenchwhere]

Hey all, this forum has been really wonderful, and just want to do my part to give back. Gonna be posting the small and big projects I do along the way in a 1985 Vanagon 1.9 Camper, to help and inspire others.

First one, been taking fire prevention more seriously after reading the many threads about burn downs. Fuel lines already completed, next up was fire fighting.

= BlazeCut and Foam Refinishing

I thought about removing the engine lid foam and replacing, but that looked like alot of effort and would of make the blazecut install harder. I went with the Plasti-Dip. method, and happy with outcome. Not new, but much much better.

I used half bottle of SuperClean and a hose to clean the foam, and let dry a few days in the sun. Gave the white surfaces a good cleaning too, magic eraser helped. Then masked everything, and used 3 cans of Plasti-Dip. Not quite as 'dipped' as hoped but would of taken alot more to get there. The color has pretty dull, so I hit it with 2x coat of HighTemp black spray paint for more gloss.

I went with the 9' version of BlazeCut, as it seem to make sense with size of the lid the most. The black version was on sale, which was nice to match. Getting the stiff BlazeCut in space was tricky. I started at the top, and kept the zip ties loose to get basic shape. Finding a piece of metal where you needed it was challenge as well.

= Fire Extinguishers

I originally had a 1.5 Lbs ABC fire extinguisher, but realized that likely too small for engine fire and/or the thought of that white powder destroying interior space gave me pause.

I read in here about the 'Generic Element Fire Extinguisher Stick (E50)', that takes no maintenance and gives 90 seconds of time. Turns out there is a perfect place for it under dash, by the pedals on the driver side. I painted the cap satin black, used some electrical tape to make mount more secure, and added industrial velcro to the mount for attachment to the metal body. Makes for easy reach in event of fire in the back compartment as you head out the door.

For any kitchen/wire fires, have added a H3R 1.4 HalGuard dry fire extinguisher that lives under the sink, that dosen't use any powder to keep inside clean. For backup to backup, still have the ABC as a last resort. Whats nice about having multiple small fire extinighsers, is I have close to 4 lbs fire fighting, but don't have a big tank to deal with, so all can be out of sight but in reach. And no a single point of failure with one big tank.

References:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=565193&highlight=blazecut

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...plasti-dip

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...;start=120

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zXa-IxcGCLU

[Alaskaberrys]

Great way to start out for sure - attention to fire safety, great reminder!

We installed a Blazecut early on along with a dry chem extinguisher in the kitchen area but I realize now they are both are coming up on 10 year anniversary of their install

Might be time to update… And I like the idea of smaller multiple systems.

Thanks for posting the layout and links.
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'91 Westfalia, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2.1L 2wd Auto
'91 T3 Syncro Doka, Escorial Green 1.9L TD AAZ “Gremian” (to provoke, irritate, exasperate, vex...)

[whatwrenchwhere]

= Subwoofer Under Dash

So it turns out, that dead space behind the glovebox is perfect fit for PIONEER TS-WX010A subwoofer. What I thought was easy mount, turned much more time consuming as some custom brackets had to be made up. And also the access and angles are just real bad to get in there.

My dash is lined with FatMat, so the idea of just using velcro to attach, and with the car movement/heat/speaker rattle, it seemed I'd be setting myself up for future work. So went harder way, and used some hardware bolts/nuts. I think I found some 2.5 inch brackets that just had to make one cut, to shorter the base, and holes were already there. Make sure to drill down and not out or you will be going out the front of the paint. Drilling the holes through van is the 2nd hardest part, and you will need right angle drill or attachments. Paint bare metal and silicon for water. You want to make sure the subwoofer is far from back wall as possible with still having access for nuts and base. I added some padding to the vertical seam on the wall, as mine did touch gently. The 1st hardest part is attaching the nuts, especially on the far passenger side, used nylon locking ones. Long pliers are key. The black blower pipe can be removed for access. The front grill can be removed for access to bolts behind passenger headlight.

The wiring was straight forward if you already have a big enough wire to power it in your dash. The stereo has great access from the dash cigarette tray to find the RCAs and ACC if your system on independent switch. Using with a Pioneer AVH-X7800BT headunit, and 10awg from auxiliary battery. Overall, very impressed to add just enough bass/depth to audio.

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'85 Westfalia, 1.9L 2wd Manual

[whatwrenchwhere]

= Headlight Warning System

The comments on this call it easy, but I'd call it simple, not easy. What thought be 30 minute job, was 2-3 hours in all. If this your first time under the dash, maybe more. The video from GoWesty and instructions are for 1986+, so confusing with relays, and really hide all the tideousness of the process. But maybe now I won't forget the headlights to a dead battery.

If you have an 1985 like mine, you will also have to buy a new headlight switch, missed that, it has extra pins.

Was my second time in here, so switches came out easier, but first time may be a bear. Slow and wiggle, breaking would be baddd news. There is so little extra wire. The brake can set at side as one assembly, but headlight needs to be unplugged, then switch pulls out with two side fins. Make sure turn battery off before starting.

On dropping dash, I felt the switches to figure out which vibrating the most, but then some Bently confirmed it was tall one, and looking underneath all the wires matched to 'Seatbelt Relay' in the wire diagrams. The grey wire with black tracer comes from ignition, and this wire is spliced, that if headlights on, the buzzer is powered.

When you put in the new wire to the headlight, the metal hoops will be facing down in the socket, and have to insert farther then you think. The most time consuming part is just getting the new switch back in place (I even took a long break, as it just wasn't going in, and didn't want to break things). For me I had to put in new switch, and then connect plug after. To fish the wire down to fuse area, I find a flexible claw tool most useful. GoWesty gave almost no extra wire, which is another level of difficultly, as I had to reposition for optimal line down to fuse. And again the gray/black wire was short and buried, so getting the splice clipped in with long pliers also a challenge.

Also removing both seats is helpful, I wrapped some 1/2 plywood with carpet that makes it nicer to work. Will also need lots of lights.

But in the end, it works - in action: https://sendvid.com/29ad1xfz

Reference: https://gowesty.com/products/headlight-warning-system
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'85 Westfalia, 1.9L 2wd Manual

[whatwrenchwhere]

=Wing Window Maintenance

My driver wing window pin was coming out, and I've been staring at it too long, as I thought this would be harder. Turns out it just needed push back in with wide mouth pliers and some rag to protect the metal surface. Done.

I always amazed how some lubricate can make things feel new. The same was true for the wing windows, both hinges and especially the locking arm. Turns so well now, feels more like 2010 vs 1985. I really like dry lubricate to keep things clean anywhere on the interior.

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'85 Westfalia, 1.9L 2wd Manual

[whatwrenchwhere]

= Alternator Ground Wire

As I work through my charging system, read some posts that grounding out the 90A alternator directly seemed like a good idea. As others commented, I used a 2ft 4AWG 5/16 lug premade wire which was about perfect. I have the alternator bracket addon, that I grinded the power coating off under the bolt/nut. Was 13mm short socket and extension to get. There was an old ground in the body I also grinded for a good connection. A washer and a sheet metal screw held that end. Both connections got dialectic geese coating, and some touch up paint from my grinding. Zip ties along the power steering hose and done.

Discussions:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=662834
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=763545
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'85 Westfalia, 1.9L 2wd Manual

[whatwrenchwhere]

=Spare Tire Refinishing

I found spare to be showing its age but, seems to hold air well enough somehow. Lots of prep on this - a full bottle of tire cleaner and some degreaser on wheels brought it clean. The rust got the full treatment of grinding and neutralizing. A couple coats of primer/paint/clear to finish it off to good enough for spare quality.

For anyone that hasn't gone done the rabbit hole of spare tire, lots of discussion on spare tire size, what fits in clamshell, and if 14 spare on bigger tires cause damage. Seems like most say its only 4WD issue. Also spare needs separate lugs then upgrade wheels for me. Van Cafe also makes a spare tire carrier to get larger spare. Some issues rubbing and full pressure to consider if larger spare.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=468590

The other part was finding a jack that would fit in the wheel. The original is much to large for previous cargo space, and read reports of blowing out. Found a 'DNA MOTORING 6 tons' that come with a case and fits about perfect. Also its has a 17 inch height max, that is needed for my setup. A cross bar tire iron, and some 36 heavy zip ties make a good combo.

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'85 Westfalia, 1.9L 2wd Manual

[dobryan]

Looks great.

How old is that spare tire?
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Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2010 Subaru EJ25 (Vanaru) and Peloquin TBD

"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevenson

MD>Canada>AK>WA>OR>CA>AZ>UT>WY>SD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620646

Building a bus for travel in Europe (euroBus)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

The Western Syncro build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746794

[whatwrenchwhere]

Thats a good question I wondering. So there are not the markings I'm used too, I only see a DOT stamp: UTKA CA1434 which leaves me puzzled. Some lookup says tires before 2000, only used the last number for the year. Which would be 4, so 1994, or 1984?

Any insight?

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'85 Westfalia, 1.9L 2wd Manual

[4Gears4Tires]

Wow, looks like it was manufactured in the 14th week of 1134! Impressive durability.

Jokes aside, I guess that mfg flips it. So 2014, 34th week. Fairly old tire. Probably ok, but it could make an annoying day into a fiasco of a day if it failed after 15 miles.
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'87 Syncro Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition
'85 Westy Sciuridae Domus Edition

[dhaavers]

That spare is a standard load tire, meaning it didn’t even meet spec when NEW, much less at 11 years old.

In your efforts towards safety, spring for a new spare, please.

- Dave
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86 White Wolfsburg Westy Weekender
"The WonderVan"
<EDITED TO PROTECT INNOCENT PIXELS>

[E1]

If there’s no cracks I’d personally run it — but slowly.

We bought a “new” pair of C-rated BFG 27x8.5s in 2014… that were stored in the shop’s shed in the Mojave Desert sun. I soon realized they were made 11 years earlier and we ran them until the tread was ready to replace.

Dates such as these presume absolute worst-case use scenarios, mixed with a heady portion of internal Legal input.

BUT… since it’s underrated to start with and if funds permit, replace.

This is totally your call, decide appropriately. Only you know, since it’s right in front of you. If it looks heat-beaten or has any cracks, spring for a new one. It’s your money and safety, and not ours.

We found a 185G tire at TireRack.com for about $100. It is D-rated, meaning has two more tread plies and much safer in carrying Vanagon weight than a weaker tire. If it’s offsetting other tires of a larger size, all the more reason to have a D-rated spare.

I would never ever run it in the heavier rear, personally. If having a rear go flat, just rotate the remaining good rear forward and use the spare up front. Drive very carefully and accordingly.

If smaller tires were a death trap by design, surely new car builders would have been sued into full-size spares long before now.
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If ever twice as rich, we’re gettin’ a double-wide
’84 “Westfailure”/2.1 Digijet/5.43 Ring & Pinion/Peloquin/D-rated BFG KO2s

AI has spoken to further illiteracy, to steal, to cheat, and to replace humans
The caveman’s first question to the headhunter: “Hey, you got any coffee?”

[whatwrenchwhere]

@E1 @dhaavers @4Gears4Tires Thanks for all the input, all great points.

I think the combo of old age, bad load rating, and being much smaller then tires on it, all push me to replace the tire, and likely getting a bigger spare wheel, to closer match the big rotation of other tires.

I really like the tip of never putting the spare on the rear, and rotating if needed.

Some good links for reference on tires for others coming this way:

http://oldbluesblog.com/files/VanagonTireSpecs.pdf
http://www.roadhaus.com/tires/guideline.html
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=584507
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'85 Westfalia, 1.9L 2wd Manual

[whatwrenchwhere]

= Vacuum Lines and Air Filter Replace

I noticed some of the braided vacuum lines were cracking apart at the ends, so decided to replace, the 4 or so on the right side engine. Along the way did the unknown age air filter while working in there.

Taking the airfilter off it comes in two pieces, top and bottom. You will need to undo all the metal clips on housing, 2 front, 1 top, 1 back for me (red boxes). There is also two top hose, top plug, and a big hose clamp that need off before top comes off (red boxes). Takes some time first time, but easy after to get it all. Used Mahle airfilter - 021-129-620, just pops in and out.

Before:

After:

Air Filter Top Off

Replacing the vacuum lines was not as straight forward, mostly due to finding the right parts, stuck on tubes, and uncertainty. Local FLAPS had fuel line by the foot. The bigger one on the breather tower, I believe was 3/4 ID (red dot). Everything else was 1/2 ID (red dots).

The gotcha was the line on right side of engine, going into the T line for power steering/ac booster boxes. It was super stuck, and it had a 3/8 coupling, that previously just had 1/2 tube and max'd out hose clamp to make the connection. Had to source a nylon 3/8 to 1/2 barb fitting (hardware store), and then had to cut that old fitting out, just above it, as to leave room for new fitting without destroying that T tube. It worked (last picture).

Light lube helps with getting tubes in. Good pair tubing cutters helps the job. Finished the job with 1/2, 3/4, 3/8 (16mm) radiator style clamps, not sure needed, but seemed good idea, as that is where cracking was previously.

Hoses and Connections

3/8 to 1/2 Hose

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'85 Westfalia, 1.9L 2wd Manual

[whatwrenchwhere]

=Starter Ground

Working on starting/charging systems, and it seems most think that grounding the starter through the transmission is bad idea. The solutions is a "1 Foot 2 AWG Black Battery Cable with 3/8" Ring". Its a 17mm nut on starter, and then a 5/16 x 3/4 hex bolt and nut, 5/16 washer, to a existing hole in the frame (limited clearances). Will need to grind away to fresh metal. Some dialectic to protect the starter connection, and paint on the bare metal. I threw in a zip tie to keep bouncing. Last step is to remove the transmission ground and done.

References:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=662834
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=763545
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'85 Westfalia, 1.9L 2wd Manual

[whatwrenchwhere]

= Exterior Plastic Refresh

So some of the plastic parts on exterior were looking faded, and recently heard of Cerakota from Project Farm. Applied to the mirrors, gas cap area, outlet boxes, windshield wiper nozzles, license plate lights, and rear decals. Really made a difference on outlet boxes, like newish. Others area much better, much richer. Does not work front grill (I heard penetrol, but I think most paint) Easy to apply, just followed directions. I did more masking, which I would do again too. But can also wipe off paint too. I took mirrors off and outlet boxes off vehicle to apply on bench. Can get sticky as dries, so lay on hard surface to dry 1 hour. Overall easy transformation. Done.

References:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AayYUKBfrtw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OiwCG4iIcVk
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'85 Westfalia, 1.9L 2wd Manual

[whatwrenchwhere]

= USB Charging Port Conversion for Map Light (Driver and Passenger)

Adding USB charging to the front seemed useful, and this kit from GoWesty does exactly that, at reasonable price. It replaces the map light, and you get a 3D panel and USB outlet there. The quality of the print is good enough for the hidden'ish spot, and a good fit. I did not have to trim, just wiggle in. The video from GoWesty does a very good job of the install. There is also a USB light plug you can use to still get the reading light.

But its much more convenient as driver to have one on driver side too. On my 85, there is this random hole below the AC controls. And it happens to fit the linked 'Panel Mount USB' from Amazon. And since the DC-DC converter from GoWesty has a second USB outlet (red box), its just a matter of stripping both USB wires, and connecting red and black wires. The Panel Mount USB has data wires too, but those can be trimmed and covered with liquid electrical tape. The circular plug is just 1mm too small, and needs a couple rounds of electrical tape to make it a snug fit in the hole. Super simple add on to this kit, that makes it much more useful to everyone. Done

References:
https://gowesty.com/products/usb-charging-port-conversion-for-map-light
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C5LJ6W18?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5u5dEUayZo8
https://gowesty.com/products/usb-led-car-light?variant=42571834425509
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'85 Westfalia, 1.9L 2wd Manual

[whatwrenchwhere]

= Sink Drain Valve

Easy one - having a hole into your house for critters never seemed like good idea. At least for me, the sink drain outlet under the van has a hose fitting, and a standard hose shut off valve fits. Done

References:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D9FWWM76?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
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'85 Westfalia, 1.9L 2wd Manual

[whatwrenchwhere]

= Fresh Water Hose System

Been using this water hose system for couple season and been working really well. The hose is a retractable one, zero-G 25 feet 5/8, with two shutoff valves. There is also a Camco Pressure Regulator, a plastic hose quick connect, a small bungee cord, velcro cable tie, and two caps for RV inline filter.

The hose with tie all can be stowed in the back under the cabinets, using the two shutoffts to close hose and slightly thread together. The quick connect and regulator live in kitchen drawer. The filter when not in use is closed with the brass cap/plug, and put into the truck fridge to keep bacteria away.

When filling, turn off all valves, remove plug/cap, attach filter to hose, attach regulator to filter, quick connect to hose, and lastly can use the the spinning regulator fitting to put on spigot. Also good idea to run some water through filter for some. The bungee is when the water spigot shuts off automatically, and can tie it on without holding.

I throw away filter after season, and clean the hose/fittings with light bleach and store valves open.

With this system, water filling has become simpler, better tasting, and van manageable.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N59VWPT - the hose
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D5GWZBH5 - the plugs
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BZD08U - regulator

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'85 Westfalia, 1.9L 2wd Manual

[unibagel]

Love that subwoofer placement! I may have to do that as well. What is the bass output with it?
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Founder: uniWerks Design, LLC specialty 3D printed Vanagon parts

www.uniwerksdesign.com