Clutch questions

[bugger-off]

I have a '68 Type 1 with a newer rebuilt 1600. I put a new clutch pack and bowden tube in it a few years ago and have had intermittent issues with it since, specifically the clutch cable adjustment. I had the cable adjusted on the release arm to where there were no more threads left, no where to go and still not engaging most gears correctly.

Is the arm position supposed to be at around 60 degrees or is it supposed to be up and down at 90 degrees? Pay no attention to the vice grips, I needed those to back off the cable wing nut. The cable is currently loose and that's where the clutch arm lays with no tension other than the spring.

Will the arm pop off the shaft to line it back up at 90 degrees or are the splines going to be an issue?

[Schepp]

I would buy a shorter length clutch cable before I started messing with the arm on the trans. Its possible someone sold you the wrong length cable. How much free play is at the pedal when the wing nut is bottomed out?

A new cable should have just a few threads poking out the back of the nut. To allow adjustment as the cable stretches over time.

I suggest removing your cable and measuring its full length. The cables are sold in MM not inches for the length.

Problems with shifting, what's the condition of your shift rod bushing and rear coupler?

[bugger-off]

The shift rod bushing and rear coupler are good. I'll have to check the pedal play, I don't recall offhand what it was.

So is that 60 degree position of the arm correct? It seems to me that it should be more vertical.

[Schepp]

My 72 is more vertical if I recall but don't quote me.
I thought the arm can only go on one way? The splines don't go all the way around the shaft.
Its possible the return spring is broken or stretched.

[bugger-off]

I was kind of thinking that with the splines. I didn't remember from when I did the clutch before. I will need to double check that spring but it looked like it was okay.

[Schepp]

With the cable out of the arm hole the arm shouldn't have any free play. The spring should hold the arm tight in it's return position. Look at some photos of other transaxles of the same-ish years. That'll give you a good indication of what yours should be like. I'll try and find a pic of mine.

[Cusser]

Without the clutch cable, the transmission's release arm should be essentially vertical.
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[Glenn]

_________________
Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Member #1009

#BlueSquare

עַם יִשְׂרָאֵל חַי

[bugger-off]

That's what I was thinking. The spring appears to be okay other than it being crooked so it must be the T/O bearing or something else internally.

Damn, I'm getting too old for bug ownership! I thought the last time I had the engine out WAS the last time!

[my3bugs]

now im no trany mechanic but those splines look odd to me to be exposed like that and it looks to have a little clip there ? just an observation not any help .

[bugger-off]

Yeah, something seems awry. I'm gonna start by popping that spring off and reinstalling it. Sumbitch!

(Great pic, Glenn, thanks!)

[bsairhead]

Cable stretch or wrong length. Start by getting an inch or a little less of peddle play. If not possible either add a spacer "nut" on the cable or spacer on the bowden tube.

[bugger-off]

Is there supposed to be play in the T/O bearing shaft sticking out where the arm attaches? I can move it in and out about 3/8 inch. I can't get that damn spring off and it is lodged in there cockeyed.

The splined arm is now flush at the end shaft-- so looking at the pic, that arm is even with the clutch bearing shaft with no splines showing and the clip is off.

Something else... I used to be able to shift the stick into a couple of the gears without the clutch and now the stick is frozen, seemingly in the neutral position.

Whatta pain.

Thoughts?

[Buggeee]

My thought is that the clutch arm is not an adjustable part of maintenance. I would pull the engine and see what is going on inside the bell housing with the release mechanism, throw out bearing and clutch pack.
_________________
Big Time 1988 Vanagon Westy
Release the Krankenwagen! 1966 Sportsmobile Camper
Dr. Kompressor 72 Super Duper
61 Turkis Pile (adopted out)

[bugger-off]

Yep, I'm afraid dropping the block is the only way to know for sure. I put a Sachs clutch kit in there so I thought it would of lasted longer. I guess we'll see.

[kreemoweet]

That clutch assembly is totally borked. The shaft in the photo is sticking out a good inch further than it should. If nothing else, that means the inner circlip on the shaft is missing or broken.
The shaft may not even be located in the right-side bushing inside anymore.

The arm only fits one way on the shaft, they have matching splines, and the outside shaft circlip should be flush with the arm outside surface. The arm is pretty much vertical when the cable is properly adjusted.
_________________
'67 bug: seized by the authorities
'68 bug: seized by the authorities
'71 kombi: not yet seized by the authorities

Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

[ashman40]

You mentioned recently replacing the clutch pack. Did you mean the clutch disc + pressure plate + TO bearing? Did you use the correct set for your transmission? Did the PP you removed have the centering ring at the center for the early style TO bearing to ride on? Did you resurface the flywheel?


With the decades since these cars left the factory you can never assume all the parts are still original to the car. Could your '68 have a '71-later transmission that used the later TO bearing? Do you have pics?
_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[bugger-off]

Yes, all three components were replaced with the correct style (the people that DON'T are obviously asking for trouble!). It's the early type with the ring on the pressure plate. However, I did not resurface the flywheel.

I'm going to try to find the time to drop the block this weekend.

[Cusser]

[bugger-off]