The '71 Deluxe

[Buggeee]

[dumptuck]

Swapped in an original solex carb I traded my old interior panels for. Runs really nice, much better throttle response Except still won't idle after choke is off...

- Replaced my manifold boots
- Replaced fuel filter/fuel lines
- Ensured my choke element and solenoid valve work correctly
- Cleaned my knockoff carb, now replaced it with one that was supposedly rebuilt
- Waved an unlit propane torch around the carb/manifold to listen for rpm increase
- Adjusted my valves

Played around with the large/small adjustment screws to no avail.

I guess my next step is to replace the manifold gaskets at the head?

Also, seems like I'm running about 80psi oil pressure, 127°C oil temp on the hills, and cyl head temp (which is reading in fahrenheit I believe) tops out about 80. Curious if this all seems fairly normal...

Anyway, going camping this weekend regardless
_________________
Erik

[dumptuck]

Smooooth trip, got about 18mpg through the twisty mountains. Accelerator pedal sticks sometimes which is exciting for sure. Speedo cable is a touch noisy at speed aswell. Otherwise all is well
_________________
Erik

[Shonandb]

Looks like you had a good weekend. Did you get in the water? How were the waves?
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76 Westy with a 2.5L Subaru SOHC + Vanagon (010) Automatic Transaxle
Build & Trip Thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=758760
Previous 1973 Panel Bus:
Click to view image

[dumptuck]

[dumptuck]

This weekends project was installing a diesel heater

I opted for the smallest available, a 2kw Vevor brand with bluetooth that cost about $130 CAD and arrived only a couple days after I ordered it on their site. Great value and everything seems to work well when I benchtested it all. The kit includes everything you might need, although I'm opting to install a couple extras (better fuel line/filter as the included ones are a bit sketchy, longer exhaust pipe to reach the side of the bus, tank siphon to avoid a large spill if something fails, and a dirtbike fuel cap vent to more reliably allow the tank to release the fuel pump vacuum). I haven't got all those bits yet but wanted to write something up anyway.

Here is where I put the heater, some hacking involved but I wanted to make this area accessible regardless. I believe the late bays have better access to this cavity but on my 71 you could hardly fit a hand in there before.

Here is where I mounted the fuel tank, it just barely fits behind the passenger seat (I may have to adjust the rear hook for the seat to give the tank a little more clearance). I like this location best as it puts the filler neck on the same side as my gas cap at the pumps.

Here are some shots of the underside routing - note that I don't have the fuel line hooked up or the last section of exhaust pipe yet in these photos. The kit came with a steel plate which I folded to act as a heat shield for some of the nearby wiring. I also used some leftover heaterpipe wrap from work as it seemed a better fit/quality than what the kit included. I may cut a hole for the combustion intake to be routed behind the splash pan if this location gives me issues. We'll see.

Here is where the cabin heat exits, right behind the passenger seat.

Since I was already hacking up my sweet sweet original german steel I figured I'd make an access hole under the driver side as well, which I've packed with a bunch of emergency stuff like fan belt, clutch/accelerator cables, jumper cables, etc etc. Soft stuff fits in here best.

Thats all for now. Hope this may help someone else with their install
_________________
Erik

[dumptuck]

Little project, wired in my rear USB port!
_________________
Erik

[dumptuck]

Still chasing this idle issue, maybe someone who knows a bit more can steer me in the right direction...

Since my previous attempts, I've:
- Switched back to previous carb, as the replacement Solex was weeping fuel at the bushings unfortunately...
- Sliding palm over open carb intake while running to feel for vacuum (seems correct)
- Tried various jets from other carbs;
I started with a 135 main, 60(?) idle jet, and 75 air jet
I tried a 127 main, 955(?) idle jet, and 27 air jet
None of these made any notable difference, although it seems to not hesitate as much at low RPM with the 127 main

Here is what my plugs look like, seems fairly normal to me, perhaps a bit lean...

I suppose next I'm going to learn how to check timing on my Petronix, unfortunately my pulley wheel has only a single mark so I suppose I'll have to get busy with a protractor or find another pulley, considering I'll need to know exactly where 29°BTDC is?

What I tried before for reference;

[lil-jinx]

a dial back timing light may be the ticket,you will only need to know where the TDC mark is ,then set the light to you desired degree.
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620186
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=668799
1974 Bay Westfalia. she likes to be called Ethel.
1968 Dune Buggy sold dec 2024

1974 parts bus
A smart man learns from his mistakes,a very smart man learns from other's mistakes.

[dumptuck]

[soissisc]

I printed (on paper) a degree wheel the same diameter as the OD of your pulley. Then you can hold a section of it up to your pulley and transfer marks onto the edge of the pulley with a fine point sharpie or paint marker.

You can use that mark to set the max timing with a normal timing light.

I just cut up my paper wheel into small sections and keep them with my timing light so I can quickly double check my pulley marks when I am checking timing.
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Mark

68 Westy
92 Jetta (oh it is retired)
99 Eurovan
05 NBC
06 Audi A3
72 Westy (I am going to fix it up)

[dumptuck]

[dumptuck]

Replaced my leaky sliding window seal, dry as a bone inside now. Also finished up my heater install, feels amazing to have a warm bus
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Erik

[Shonandb]