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notchboy
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Joined: April 27, 2002
Posts: 22663
Location: Escondido CA
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mikewire 
Samba Member
Joined: March 22, 2010
Posts: 853
Location: San Antonio, TX
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gschoep
Samba Member
Joined: June 22, 2011
Posts: 28
Location: Bozeman MT
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 Posted: Mon Aug 22, 2011 10:08 pm Post subject: |
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I almost bought that engine. I am glad that someone got it working.
Where are you getting the rims powder coated? I had good results from both Revelation Industries and Powder Coating of Montana for electronic enclosures. I think that the prices were better in Belgrade and the work was just as good. |
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mikewire
Samba Member
Joined: March 22, 2010
Posts: 853
Location: San Antonio, TX
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Brionp
Samba Member
Joined: March 18, 2009
Posts: 457
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| Posted: Tue Aug 23, 2011 1:13 am Post subject: |
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You are doing an awesome job, keep up the good work. The stuff that you are doing is exceptional. One suggestions though. And this is only a suggestion based on experience. I'm not trying to be a noodge. Get an un-insulated "F" connector crimper for your wiring. And some connectors from German Supply. They are so.... cool. And...Silver is Silver, especially after you put the beauty rings on.
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mikewire
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Joined: March 22, 2010
Posts: 853
Location: San Antonio, TX
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Brionp
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Joined: March 18, 2009
Posts: 457
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| Posted: Tue Aug 23, 2011 12:14 pm Post subject: |
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Thats what everyone says when I ask about them, Maybe I have it wrong. Uninsulated Spade might be a better way to describe them.
Anyways they are the way to go. They crimp both around the wires and the insulation. Put an inch of shrink tube on the wire before you crimp the connector on and then shrink it over the crimp and you are doing it even better than it came from the factory. |
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mikewire
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Joined: March 22, 2010
Posts: 853
Location: San Antonio, TX
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| Posted: Fri Sep 16, 2011 12:16 pm Post subject: |
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I'm going to look into getting those type of connectors, maybe there's something similar in a weather resistant type pack.
Couple of updates, wheels came back from PC, had some Hankook RA08 tires mounted on them.
New Zimmerman rotors, pads and Meyle brake hoses on all four corners. Cleaned up the calipers and got them ready to bleed, bolted the wheels back up.
While it was in the air I hit the 5 zerks with some grease.
More pictures are in order, so I'll get some tomorrow
_________________
-Mike
@countdowngarage
@bigskyeuro
1972 VW Kombi 9 Passenger Deluxe 221(5) w/ 2.0L F.I. VWAC swap
1965 VW Beetle Deluxe Bahama Blue |
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mattcuddy
Samba Member
Joined: October 22, 2003
Posts: 2036
Location: Philly, PA
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| Posted: Fri Sep 16, 2011 12:59 pm Post subject: |
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| Brionp wrote: |
| Put an inch of shrink tube on the wire before you crimp the connector on and then shrink it over the crimp and you are doing it even better than it came from the factory. |
Sometimes, if I'm in a perticular non-stock mood, I use a larger diamater piece of shrinkable tubing and cover the whole terminal crimp and push on part. Instant Weather proofing! |
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Kirk
Samba Member
Joined: December 05, 2003
Posts: 5492
Location: North Texas
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| Posted: Fri Sep 16, 2011 3:31 pm Post subject: |
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I like silver myself. Still watching. You are doing great work.
_________________
MAKE FORUMS GREAT AGAIN
Bear
Fasty
Super |
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zuggbug
Samba Member
Joined: June 17, 2008
Posts: 3503
Location: Anderson SC
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| Posted: Fri Sep 16, 2011 6:25 pm Post subject: |
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just stumbled across your thread - great job..
_________________
SOUTHERN INTEGRITY AIRCOOLERS
58 15 window
56 westy |
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mikewire
Samba Member
Joined: March 22, 2010
Posts: 853
Location: San Antonio, TX
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rustbus
Samba Member
Joined: June 18, 2009
Posts: 2079
Location: alberta
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| Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 2:29 pm Post subject: |
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Mike, this thing is looking killer.
I gotta ask, how did you retrofit the accelerator cable routing from 1972 to the FI? i noticed on the FI buses it comes through the trans carrier, and that the tube to the front is obviously in a very different location....did you install a new tube all the way?
I have a parts bus with the trans carrier and I guess i could cut the cable tube out...but that may be more work than its worth?
any other tips or trick in putting FI no the 72?
thanks!!
_________________
May of '72 Deluxe.  2.0L L-Jet CS & 091 trans conversion
my Bus thread |
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Brionp
Samba Member
Joined: March 18, 2009
Posts: 457
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| Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 7:59 pm Post subject: |
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| It just keeps getting better. Again, Awesome Job. |
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mikewire
Samba Member
Joined: March 22, 2010
Posts: 853
Location: San Antonio, TX
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| Posted: Sun Oct 23, 2011 9:46 pm Post subject: |
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| rustbus wrote: |
Mike, this thing is looking killer.
I gotta ask, how did you retrofit the accelerator cable routing from 1972 to the FI? i noticed on the FI buses it comes through the trans carrier, and that the tube to the front is obviously in a very different location....did you install a new tube all the way?
I have a parts bus with the trans carrier and I guess i could cut the cable tube out...but that may be more work than its worth?
any other tips or trick in putting FI no the 72?
thanks!! |
| Brionp wrote: |
| It just keeps getting better. Again, Awesome Job. |
Thanks guys!
Lets see, the accel cable tube, I ran a piece of fuel line from where it exits the tube and brought it over to the passengers side and inserted a shorter hard line using small worm clamps to secure the tubing to the hardline. That shorter hard line exits through the firewall and I used an adjustable cable end and barrel adjuster on the end of the cable to the throttle body.
I can't think of anything else right now specific to FI in a '72, but I'd be happy to answer any questions.
In the past few weeks I've been able to get a few things worked on. First thing I wanted to do was get the interior of the front doors installed and sealed up. Over the summer I pulled the locks and door assemblies out and "hot tanked" them in an old crock pot with some detergent to degrease and clean them up. Worked great, and I can lock and unlock the doors with ease 
So the first step was to install new vapor barrier. Following Amskeptic's thread I made my own.
I picked this up at my local Lowes:
Used my existing door panel and traced out a panel, then cut a piece and made the little inside flap.
After I masked off the door, I used some regular spray adhesive I picked up (don't remember where, I've had it for a while) and used it to spray the door and get tacky:
I cut slits for the door handle and the deluxe vent, then I was able to put the panel back on:
And the drivers side:
One day I'll replace the fiber board with ABS panels, but for now I kind of like the "rustic" look Thank you Amskeptic (Colin) for making the instructions easy to follow along with.
Next was to replace the nylon slider on the side door - pretty straight forward, pull the side cover, unbolt the old one, bolt the new one on. Comparing new to old:
Next...my shifting was kind of sloppy and it was hard to tell when I was in gear or in N. So some parts were ordered - New bushings and a shift coupler:
Under the bus I found the original coupler and front shift linkage:
I pulled the shifter out, along with the linkage and cleaned them up, replaced the front bushing.
But I hit a stopping point when I got to the front and rear bushings on the rear linkage. The rear can only be accessed with the transmission out, and the front could not be slid far enough forward to access and replace it. One unique thing on the '72 is that there is an extra linkage on the rear half the linkage. I maybe could have removed it, then slid it forward to access the front bushing, but I thought about that after I got it back together. So, maybe another time...I need new linkage boots anyhow.
Next thing was to get may brakes working 100%. From what I have deducted, my master cylinder is bad, so I ordered a new one.
So, I pulled the old one and removed the reservoir and brake switches, cleaned them up and installed them on the new master.
Old and dirty:
Clean and new:
I have it bolted up and everything connected, I just need to go out and get fluid in and bleed them. Hopefully it will stop on a dime.
_________________
-Mike
@countdowngarage
@bigskyeuro
1972 VW Kombi 9 Passenger Deluxe 221(5) w/ 2.0L F.I. VWAC swap
1965 VW Beetle Deluxe Bahama Blue |
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mikewire
Samba Member
Joined: March 22, 2010
Posts: 853
Location: San Antonio, TX
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| Posted: Tue Nov 01, 2011 7:23 pm Post subject: |
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Brakes bled...but pedal still went to the floor and I had to pump the pedal to get it to stop. so I figured I still had air in the lines, and the rears needed adjusted.
I tried adjusting the stars, but they were stuck, bad. so I pulled the drums and after a mixture of PB blaster, heat, and careful use of vice grips I got them all out, anti-seize'd and greased up everything with a good synthetic grease - what a pain.
After adjusting the rears and bleeding the front again from the top bleeders, I got all the air out. Took it for a spin and the brakes stop great now.
Next up was the seat belts. I wanted to use the originals, but couldn't bring myself to trust 38 year old webbing, so I picked up a newer retractable set from an '87 GTI. Probably not much better than the originals, but they are over the shoulder and will be a decent safety upgrade.
Both drivers side (easy) and passengers side, which had me scratching my head, since my bus is a non-walkthrough. I ended up staggering the buckle end so the drivers buckle sits on top of the passengers. And the passengers side will only have one seat belt - no need for a middle belt, I have plenty of room in the back
Next up, I need to figure out my alternator, because it is not charging the battery. And then I am going to order TMI seat covers and padding, seat stand covers, and new ABS kick panels.
_________________
-Mike
@countdowngarage
@bigskyeuro
1972 VW Kombi 9 Passenger Deluxe 221(5) w/ 2.0L F.I. VWAC swap
1965 VW Beetle Deluxe Bahama Blue |
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kuleinc
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Joined: August 10, 2007
Posts: 1604
Location: East Bay Area, California
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mikewire
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Joined: March 22, 2010
Posts: 853
Location: San Antonio, TX
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mikewire
Samba Member
Joined: March 22, 2010
Posts: 853
Location: San Antonio, TX
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| Posted: Mon Mar 19, 2012 10:55 am Post subject: |
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Well, I've been having an issue with the bus not starting after sitting for a few days with no start, an the battery disconnected. It appears to be a bad or dying battery, and I'll probably just end up replacing it anyway because it's about 4 years old. But as I started to think more and do a little research I found that the problem may lie in the wiring and/or the starter solenoid.
Here's what happens - I have about 12.5V on the battery, I turn the key and I hear the fuel pump run, but the starter does not turn over. I put my charger on the battery and give it more voltage and the starter turns over, and it starts and runs fine. I short the big terminals and the solenoid kicks out and starter spins.
After doing some research I found that due to oxidation of the copper wiring I may have too much resistance in the wiring from the ignition switch (which I already replaced) to the starter solenoid, so I am not getting 12V to the solenoid and the Bendix gear won't kick out. So I pulled all the wires off the starter terminals and used my favorite new-found tool...CRC electrical contact cleaner...to clean all the connectors and terminal posts on the solenoid.
Now the terminals and connectors are shiny, and I seem to be getting the proper voltage to kick the Bendix out and start the bus. I'll test it out tonight after letting it sit for a day, and hopefully I won't need to tear into the starter and clean and lube the solenoid (which I should do anyway).
_________________
-Mike
@countdowngarage
@bigskyeuro
1972 VW Kombi 9 Passenger Deluxe 221(5) w/ 2.0L F.I. VWAC swap
1965 VW Beetle Deluxe Bahama Blue |
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mikewire
Samba Member
Joined: March 22, 2010
Posts: 853
Location: San Antonio, TX
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| Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2012 11:53 pm Post subject: |
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Made some progress today and over the last couple of weeks. I was in Vegas all last week, so I was really ready to get back home a do some work to get the bus going.
Before we left, I was able to get a few things done. First, I had a turn switch that needed replaced - that was a pretty straightforward swap. I used a switch from a 68-71 bus and just used the wires needed to make everything work.
Then I also needed to get the cluster lights etc. working properly. I also had a donor cluster housing that had a working brake warning light and no extra holes drilled by the PO. I also picked up some new bulbs and bulb housings
Swapping cluster housings - just swapped out gauges:
After that I wired the cluster correctly, and now I have all gauges and lights working 
Next up was to tackle the problem with the bus not engaging the starter. I had first replaced the battery thinking it was a voltage or charge problem, but that didn't fix the problem.
So my next task was to pull the starter and clean/lube the solenoid. Not too hard, just tedious.
Get that hard to reach nut in the engine bay, right behind the intake plenum...
Then the lower nut, and carefully pull the starter straight out
Unscrew the two screws holding the solenoid in the assembly and pull the solenoid out. I didn't notice any real problem with my solenoid, but I could tell it needed to be cleaned out and lubed. So I took some WD40 and used it to clean the plunger while pushing the plunger in and out, then used a bit of lithium grease to continue to clean it out. When I was sure it was clean I wiped it down and then used just a bit of synthetic grease as a final lube. I also made sure to clean and lube the linkage - just a light film of syn grease.
After getting back from our Vegas vacation, I had a package waiting from Werksberg - ABS kick panels. So I was able to get the inside vacuumed and cleaned up, windows cleaned and Rain-X'd (Yes, that's my toe).
After getting it all back together, I have no issues with it starting. We (my wife and I) took it out on it's first real maiden voyage to lunch in town. We were both a bit nervous, but had no issues at all.
Next up, TMI seat cover replacements
_________________
-Mike
@countdowngarage
@bigskyeuro
1972 VW Kombi 9 Passenger Deluxe 221(5) w/ 2.0L F.I. VWAC swap
1965 VW Beetle Deluxe Bahama Blue |
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