ss brake hoses

[pushkick]

found this master cylinder rebuild kit for $35
https://autoplicity.com/3728721-dorman-tm96155-master-cylndr-repair?gclid=COHerd6loNICFZq4wAod5tAJ2A
great info on hoses. i noticed that my rear hoses have cracks front hoses dont have any cracks but i think i will change anyways. they look worn and rusted fittings. would be nice if the rubber hoses had ss fittings. maybe i will see how much napa custom brake hose will cost.
i also searched and found rebuild kits for the wheel cylinders.
would love to change to rear disc brakes but the cost is not in my budget right now. been reading some threads about conversions small car and burley seems to have kits that work but $1000 + is alot. but the simplicity of maintenance and rebuilding a caliper and changing pads is so easy. when did brake drum technology first come out 70 years ago?
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i see said the blind man to his deaf dog
i am going to quit smoking and drinking and die a healthy man. gotta laugh
there is no deed to the planet earth
1990 vw automatic camper

[Merian]

brake drum technology is a lot older than that & was used in the first motor cars in the early 1900s

top quality drum brakes were used by Porsche as late as the 1950s until they finally went to discs
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[Merian]

BTW - there are a lot of cheap seal and rebuild kits out there

I'd pay extra for a quality name brand to be certain this critical safety component does NOT fail
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[Wildthings]

[pushkick]

gw said their ss brake lines have ss fittings but they didnt know the pressure rating of their hoses. the metal lines on my van dont show any signs of corrosion. changed the rear pads , cylinders, springs, cleaned back plate, measured the drums and they were at 253mm maybe a hair over, the bently says that this is the wear limit for the drums. adjusted brakes and flushed old brake fluid and bled the brakes. but the pedal goes almost all the way to the floor before the brakes start to grab. emergency brake dosent seem to hold at all but does seem to work because when i set the e brake the brake pedal seems to work better and the brakes work after just a couple of inches of pedal depression. are my drums to worn? or do i need to check pressures?" bently says front should be 1450psi and rear should be around 798-945pse.
the other thing is my emergency brake adjusting at equalizer cant be done because the nut and rod are rusted bad. liquid wrench or pb blaster dosent seem to loosen up the nut. will have to rethread or replace or try some heat before i can adjust parking brake any further.
_________________
i see said the blind man to his deaf dog
i am going to quit smoking and drinking and die a healthy man. gotta laugh
there is no deed to the planet earth
1990 vw automatic camper

[Wildthings]

Could be air in the lines or that the rears aren't adjusted up tight enough yet. The rear adjusters can take a while to do their thing. As far as you parking brake cable, if it is rusty then just buy a new one and cut the end off off the old one with a Dremel so you don't have to deal with braking the nut loose.

You DO NOT want to adjust your parking brake until you have let your automatic adjusters do their job.

I have never heard of anyone worrying about the pressure rating of flexible brake hose. I would think that so long as you have anything resembling a stock brake set up that whatever hoses are being sold for automotive brake use should be fine.

[pushkick]

i was wondering if i should test the pressure at the rear drums to see if it is within range and the front disc to check the pressure to make sure the master cyclinder and proportioning valve are working correctly. i set the rear adjusters so i could just slide the brake drum on the pads. very hard to use the hole on the backplane to adjust the brakes cant see in the hole to see what to move. i think i will cut the ebrake rod nut off and replace with a ss rod or ti rod and nut. so i wont have this problem nest time. i reused my old adjusters so i hope they work. i cleaned and lubed and they looked ok really dont understand how they work. i guess every time you apply the brakes it moves the adjuster via the spring and lever arm turns adjuster nut.
_________________
i see said the blind man to his deaf dog
i am going to quit smoking and drinking and die a healthy man. gotta laugh
there is no deed to the planet earth
1990 vw automatic camper

[Wildthings]

Once you put the drums on and apply the brakes that will center the drums and they won't necessarily be tight to the drums any more. You can remove the drum again and probably be able to tighten the adjuster star quite a few more clicks. Even once new shoes are centered and dragging against the drum they will not feel as tight as worn in shoes that match the exact radius of the drum.

When you apply the brakes it will cock or at least attempt to cock the adjusting knife. Once cocked the knife will push against the adjusting star and slowly turn it a notch. At best you get one tooth on the star wheel for each application of the brakes until they are properly tightened.

There are multiple ways to put the brakes together wrong so that the brakes will not auto adjust.

[pablum]

In reverse, of course. I don't think any adjustment occurs while braking in the forward direction.
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The wise man learns from history, the fool from experience.
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I see [a cat] in the street and i aim for the pest with my car. -- bluebus86

[Wildthings]

[pushkick]

i researched the brake hoses and found out the dot spec requires a 3000psi
rating on automotive brake hoses. i wonder if anyone sells a ss fitting on a rubber hose?
_________________
i see said the blind man to his deaf dog
i am going to quit smoking and drinking and die a healthy man. gotta laugh
there is no deed to the planet earth
1990 vw automatic camper

[bluebus86]

[pushkick]

the reason i was wondering if they were available the roads here in rural ohio use salt in the winter months and everything rust so if they are ss it would be one less thing to worry about coating with oil to keep from rusting so quickly.
_________________
i see said the blind man to his deaf dog
i am going to quit smoking and drinking and die a healthy man. gotta laugh
there is no deed to the planet earth
1990 vw automatic camper

[Merian]

you need a cheap beater to drive in the winter
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[djkeev]

[Abscate]

SS will still rust - it just rusts slower. Coating it with oil won't help either.

Its just entropy, man..
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.ssS!

[pushkick]

not this winter is has been in the 50's and 60's here in middle ohio. only one snow fall this year and was less than 3" and that was in december.

i understand that ss rust but it is so much slower that it will last past my life time and it depends on the type of ss. i tried adjusting the brakes a little more but that seemed to make the brakes work a little better. but the pedal still goes to the floor unless i pump several times. maybe my drums are to worn i checked and they are at the wear limit + (253.5mm) stated by bently. could this be causing the issue? from experience do you think the drums should be changed? they have not been changed in at least 160,000 miles.
i find it difficult to believe that .5mm would cause the issue but i am no expert just a frustrated van owner. maybe the adjuster arent working properly, because when i adjusted them out some to try and get a closer fit to drums the brake pedal didnt go all the way to the floor.
_________________
i see said the blind man to his deaf dog
i am going to quit smoking and drinking and die a healthy man. gotta laugh
there is no deed to the planet earth
1990 vw automatic camper

[Wildthings]

It is most likely either the adjustment or that you have air in the system. I would bleed all four corners again. Are you experienced with bleeding brakes? If not get some help from someone who is.

Your want the brakes adjusted up until there is some slight drag once the shoes have been centered. Then drive it a couple of miles with minimal use of the brakes and stop and feel the drums the drums to see how hot they are getting. If hot then back the adjusters off a notch or two. You might actually be okay if you just let the brakes cool before driving again without doing any adjustment, but check for heat the next couple of times you take a drive.

[pushkick]

thanks for the advice

i have checked and double checked for air in lines. i did the one person bleed method several times on each wheel but i will try the two person bleed method with someone holding the brake pedal down. the one thing that i noticed is that after i adjusted the rear brakes some last time. when i pulled the emergency brake up a couple of notches the brakes seem to work normal but a very little on the spongy side. not a completely hard feel on the pedal. i will try to adjust with drum on if i can. kind of hard laying on ground.
_________________
i see said the blind man to his deaf dog
i am going to quit smoking and drinking and die a healthy man. gotta laugh
there is no deed to the planet earth
1990 vw automatic camper

[dobryan]

A spongy pedal is often some air in the lines.

A long pedal travel can be from rear shoes too far from the drum.
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Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25 and Peloquin TBD

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