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2007 - 2017 cc Build for a 1971 Bus Type 1
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sambabus
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2013 6:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So that others can learn from my mistakes:

1. If you are building a bigger motor or will turn high rpm's, make sure to vent the extra crankcase pressure. I thought I could get away with it because of the C-channel seals on my valve covers but the oil just leaked out from behind the pulley instead.

2. Seal your case inserts if you have them and they are open to the inside of the case, like when machining is done to make room for a longer stroke crank. Do this even if the case is new and you trust the person that did the machining.

My question is how much venting is enough. I plan to vent the valve covers to the air cleaners. I also plan to pull the motor, heads, and back out the inserts to put some sealer on them, then screw them back in. I'm hoping this can be done by double nutting a case stud.

Thanks.
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1971 Westy, 2017cc 78.4 x 90.5 Tims Stage 1 plus 42x37, CB 44IDF's, 135 mains, 175 airs, F111, 50 idles, Engle 110, 30mm, 009, single QP, DD CHT 300*f, VDO oil always 180* Build: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=541370
1970 convertible bug, 1835cc, single 40IDF, disks.
Symptoms Solved and Fixed http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=551358
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easy e
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 26, 2013 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sambabus wrote:

My question is how much venting is enough. I plan to vent the valve covers to the air cleaners.

You can probably get by with a cheapie breather box. If you do, throw the foam away & put a stainless steel or copper pot scrubbie in there. The oil mist should have a place to collect & then drip down. If a piece of copper scrubbie made it's way to the engine... it's softer than stainless.

I think venting direct to carbs isn't advised. Hopefully someone will back me up on this. You might draw too much oil in.... lower octane rating... make it lean.

I understand you don't want to puke oil out of the crank seal & probably don't like the oil mist settling on your engine compartment.

I'm getting a similar engine built, running a breather box and venting to the original down draft tube spot on the right side of the pulley (right near the case). The breather box I'm going to use is the EMPI one that stands up tall at the filler neck area & will put copper scrubbie in there. I like the EMPI one more than the CB one because it has more bolts (on the left in the pic below). I think they're kinda ugly... but oh well.

I've read on here the 3/4 side gets lots of oil & only vent the 1/2 side when needed. Also crank case breathing is preferred to valve cover breathing. You already have a big hole at the alternator stand/filler neck.

You can see below where you could take the plate from under the foam and put it down lower over the main hole...add four copper scrubbie pads in the cavities. Plug the lower fitting ports and one of the top ones & then use the available top / back one to vent to atmosphere down by the pulley, to below the bus. If more breathing is needed, uncap one of the other lower plugged holes, vent the 1/2 valve cover & maybe route another hose down somewhere else or join the two hoses into a 'Y' and a bigger down tube. The area of two 3/8" circles is less than the area of one 5/8" circle. I'm getting at the point... you don't need a much bigger line to equal the size of two smaller lines. Don't forget to add a oil breather draft tube boot: http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Oil-Breather-Draft-Tube-40hp-1600cc-311-115-541-p/311-115-541.htm

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Last edited by easy e on Tue Dec 10, 2013 9:08 am; edited 1 time in total
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sambabus
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 29, 2013 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I drove Seabear to Napa yesterday and she did great. 3500 rpm is about 58 mph on the freeway by gps. I'd rather see 3200 rpm at 67 mph or so. Head temp stayed around 320 f and oil was always 180 f. I wonder if the head temp would stay down with lower rpm and higher mph. I also wonder what oil I should use since the temp always stays at 180 now.
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1971 Westy, 2017cc 78.4 x 90.5 Tims Stage 1 plus 42x37, CB 44IDF's, 135 mains, 175 airs, F111, 50 idles, Engle 110, 30mm, 009, single QP, DD CHT 300*f, VDO oil always 180* Build: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=541370
1970 convertible bug, 1835cc, single 40IDF, disks.
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WestyPop
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 3:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="easy e"]
sambabus wrote:

My question is how much venting is enough. I plan to vent the valve covers to the air cleaners.

You can probably get by with a cheapie breather box. If you do, throw the foam away & put a stainless steel or copper pot scrubbie in there. The oil mist should have a place to collect & then drip down. If a piece of copper scrubbie made it's way to the engine... it's softer than stainless.

Sounds good. My CB tall breather seeps a bit around its bolts; not a big problem, but just more of a nuisance. Maybe the EMPI unit seals better. (?)

FWIW... take a magnet along when you buy those 'copper scrubbies'. Many that appear to be copper are really just copper-plated steel, not even stainless steel!
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easy e
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 02, 2014 12:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

WestyPop wrote:
Maybe the EMPI unit seals better. (?)

FWIW... take a magnet along when you buy those 'copper scrubbies'. Many that appear to be copper are really just copper-plated steel, not even stainless steel!


"Chore Boy" makes a pure copper scrubbie pad.

I was looking at the EMPI unit again... I think it could leak/seep a little from the bolt heads. The seal is at the edge & bolts are inboard = have oil on them. I think I'll just use teflon tape on the cover bolts.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 02, 2014 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sambabus wrote:
I drove Seabear to Napa yesterday and she did great. 3500 rpm is about 58 mph on the freeway by gps. I'd rather see 3200 rpm at 67 mph or so. Head temp stayed around 320 f and oil was always 180 f. I wonder if the head temp would stay down with lower rpm and higher mph. I also wonder what oil I should use since the temp always stays at 180 now.


those temps are good!

what transaxle do you have?
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sambabus
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 02, 2014 3:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Transaxle is stock 002 for 71, I'd like to put a taller ring & pinion in it.
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1971 Westy, 2017cc 78.4 x 90.5 Tims Stage 1 plus 42x37, CB 44IDF's, 135 mains, 175 airs, F111, 50 idles, Engle 110, 30mm, 009, single QP, DD CHT 300*f, VDO oil always 180* Build: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=541370
1970 convertible bug, 1835cc, single 40IDF, disks.
Symptoms Solved and Fixed http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=551358
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 02, 2014 8:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

makes sense to use a different transaxle with that engine. we recently had a similar engine built for a '71 camper, except it's a bit bigger - 2116cc. the difference is 92mm pistons instead of 90.5. we're going with a transaxle with 4.57 R&P instead of the stock which is 5.38, and we're using a shorter 4th gear (.89 instead of .82) so 4th isn't quite so tall. some people don't enjoy a 4.57 final drive with the stock .82 4th, they find it's too tall.
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richparker
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 02, 2014 9:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sambabus wrote:
I drove Seabear to Napa yesterday and she did great. 3500 rpm is about 58 mph on the freeway by gps. I'd rather see 3200 rpm at 67 mph or so. Head temp stayed around 320 f and oil was always 180 f. I wonder if the head temp would stay down with lower rpm and higher mph. I also wonder what oil I should use since the temp always stays at 180 now.


This is interesting, I run and 002 and wonder what RPM my 2109cc is at when I'm cruising at 70 mph. It sounds great and my mpg is good. The guy who built it has no problem with me going that fast. The engine does have plenty of power left at 70 but I do get that the transaxle is limited b/c of the gearing.

I'm running 20/50w oil all year long. This time of year it rarely goes over 180* but in the summer I see temps around 220*. Again the builder says he has no problem with the higher temps and if I see 250* to shut it down. I have yet to see any temp over 230* and that was fully loaded with camp gear, bikes on the roof doing 70 in the middle of summer for a long period of time.
Thanks for the post.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 4:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Rich,what no tach??? I'm thinking about a Bigger motor for my 70 bus and I have this 5rib sitting here Wink Wink Cool Cool but first I need to get the right tires and the do some testing Wink
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 7:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

madmike wrote:
Hey Rich,what no tach??? I'm thinking about a Bigger motor for my 70 bus and I have this 5rib sitting here Wink Wink Cool Cool but first I need to get the right tires and the do some testing Wink


No tach just a oil temp gauge. I know my 195s are a larger diameter then the 185s that should be on my bus and lowers the RPMs a little but not as much as if I was running 27X8.5.
I had my builder install the oil temp gauge where the clock would go in the dash. He did such a nice clean job installing it that I felt bad asking him to remove it and put a tach there. One of my pet peeves is I don't like the look of the gauges hanging under the dash, I think it's ugly and they would block my parcel shelf. I'm thinking maybe the oil gauge under the radio like sicroccocrazy did on his bay/Acura build.
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sambabus
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 3:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My bus reads 70 mph on the gauge when the GPS says 58. Something about the original tires being taller bias ply. Current tire size is 24.5" under load. I looked into a 27" tire but it would only change the rpm by 200.
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1971 Westy, 2017cc 78.4 x 90.5 Tims Stage 1 plus 42x37, CB 44IDF's, 135 mains, 175 airs, F111, 50 idles, Engle 110, 30mm, 009, single QP, DD CHT 300*f, VDO oil always 180* Build: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=541370
1970 convertible bug, 1835cc, single 40IDF, disks.
Symptoms Solved and Fixed http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=551358
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 3:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sambabus wrote:
My bus reads 70 mph on the gauge when the GPS says 58. Something about the original tires being taller bias ply. Current tire size is 24.5" under load. I looked into a 27" tire but it would only change the rpm by 200.


Those are short tires, what size are you running? Are the C rated? My 195R14C Hankooks measure out to 26.3. At 70 on my speedo gps says 68. I bet a larger diameter tire will bring down your RPMs and make your speedo more accurate. Maybe randy in Manie will chime in, He seems to be the tire expert.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 4:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

205/70R14
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 4:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sambabus wrote:
205/70R14


I ran 205/75/R14 on my bus for a while. There is a major difference in the handling in the bus with C rated tires vs. The P rated tires you are running now. Not only the handling but I think you would be happy with the rpm drop and closer speed to your speedo. I would buy a set of 195R14 Hankook RAO8 tires, it will be a lot cheaper then a new transaxle. Our engines are similar and We have the same transaxles. I can tell you it was a major improvement in my bus when I went with the Hankooks.

I did run the P rated tires with my 2109 and my engine sounds a lot happier now.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 4:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yea Rich,I hear ya on the underdash gage mounts Confused I mounted mine under the radio that never plays,LOL and I did install my tach in the Clocks place Cool
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 8:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sambabus wrote:
Current tire size is 24.5" under load.


What do you mean you tire is 24.5" under load? The load on a tire doesn't change its rolling diameter much at all. If under inflated you will get additional tread squirm with will make the tires spin a tiny bit faster at any given speed but this is corrected by running the correct air pressure for the load you are carrying.

A typical 205/70R14 has a diameter of 25.4".

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=B...;tab=Specs
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 3:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

+/- 24.5" with the tire installed, from ground to top of tire, with 32 psi. I can see 25"+ with an unmounted tire.

My ultimate goal is to stay 1 mph ahead of the long haul truckers, without turning more than 3400 rpm. Not sure what speed that is yet, maybe 67 mph?
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1971 Westy, 2017cc 78.4 x 90.5 Tims Stage 1 plus 42x37, CB 44IDF's, 135 mains, 175 airs, F111, 50 idles, Engle 110, 30mm, 009, single QP, DD CHT 300*f, VDO oil always 180* Build: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=541370
1970 convertible bug, 1835cc, single 40IDF, disks.
Symptoms Solved and Fixed http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=551358
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sambabus
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 26, 2014 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does anyone in the San Francisco bay area know where I can get my hands on a transmission oil seal before Monday? Its the donut shaped one behind the CV joint on a 3 rib 002 transmission.

Thanks
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1971 Westy, 2017cc 78.4 x 90.5 Tims Stage 1 plus 42x37, CB 44IDF's, 135 mains, 175 airs, F111, 50 idles, Engle 110, 30mm, 009, single QP, DD CHT 300*f, VDO oil always 180* Build: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=541370
1970 convertible bug, 1835cc, single 40IDF, disks.
Symptoms Solved and Fixed http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=551358
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 26, 2014 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

try Ken Jansen in Belmont (650) 622-9785
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