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Subaru conversion and Aux Battery
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Carrothead
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 5:01 pm    Post subject: Subaru conversion and Aux Battery Reply with quote

I just got my van back from having a subaru conversion (2.5L) and it is beautiful. The only problem I have is that my aux battery no longer charges. The guy who did the conversion said it is because the subaru alternator doesn't put out as much power to "activate" the isolator.

Also, the alt light glows constantly.

My van is a 91 tin top to pop-top conversion, not the GL, and I have the Aux kit and battery from Van-cafe.

I am wondering how to approach this:

1) new alternator seems expensive and maybe not even be available? Will my subaru alternator charge both batteries adequately?

2) is there a different isolator I can install?

3) Can I just install a switch that I can do what the isolator does manually? I have a friend with an older bus and an after market aux battery that has a manual switch.

4) something I haven't thought of yet?

I really hope someone has solved this problem elegantly.

(it is nice to go 65 up Mt. Bachelor with 5 people and gear, but it would be way cooler with a working stereo).
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Phishman068
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 5:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you paid someone for an installation, he is not done!
Not even close it sounds like. I wonder what other corners were cut.
There is no excuse why the alternator light would be on dimly, he's just not fixed that yet. Also, there is no reason why your aux battery system isn't functioning.

Some aux systems (not sure what you have exactly) rely on a trigger wire normally attached to the WBXer alternator, the subaru alternator does not have this, but the system can be made to work. Or, other systems can be installed to function.

Take it back.
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kbeefy
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Subaru alternator is definitely up to the task, I'm sure it's rated higher than the vanagon one was. I have a 105 amp house battery working just fine in my van with a 2.5.
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Vango Conversions
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The stock Subaru alternators put out 95 amps and the voltage at idle is higher than the WBX alternator, which needs to be revved up a bit to put out the full voltage. The excuse that the Subaru alternator isn't putting out as much as the wbx alternator is bogus, they're usually much better than the wbx alternator. Subaru conversions work great with aux systems, I've installed several.

As for the alternator light, there are some wires that need to be switched around on the factory campers to fix that issue but if yours was originally a tin top you shouldn't have that problem.

Of course your alternator could be going out, you should check that out.

I'd take it back and have him fix it. Depending on how the Aux system was set up, and if it involved wiring off of the wbx alternator it would be fair for him to charge you extra to set it up right, but the alternator light should work properly and that should be included in the conversion cost.
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dobryan
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 5:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

X2 on the above.

I have no issue charging the aux battery. Your conversion is not done yet.
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Jake de Villiers
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 6:36 pm    Post subject: Re: Subaru conversion and Aux Battery Reply with quote

Carrothead wrote:
I just got my van back from having a subaru conversion (2.5L) and it is beautiful. The only problem I have is that my aux battery no longer charges. The guy who did the conversion said it is because the subaru alternator doesn't put out as much power to "activate" the isolator.

Also, the alt light glows constantly.

My van is a 91 tin top to pop-top conversion, not the GL, and I have the Aux kit and battery from Van-cafe.

I am wondering how to approach this:

1) new alternator seems expensive and maybe not even be available? Will my subaru alternator charge both batteries adequately?

2) is there a different isolator I can install?

3) Can I just install a switch that I can do what the isolator does manually? I have a friend with an older bus and an after market aux battery that has a manual switch.

4) something I haven't thought of yet?

I really hope someone has solved this problem elegantly.

(it is nice to go 65 up Mt. Bachelor with 5 people and gear, but it would be way cooler with a working stereo).


Your 'mechanic' needs to swap the blue alternator wire from G4 to G3 on the back of the fuse block. Boy, I hope he got some of the rest of the conversion right...
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Carrothead
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 7:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm guessing I can show the guy this thread and he will take care of it. I have driven the van from Portland to Seattle, and then to bend. It runs and sounds great. This guy came highly regarded and I believe my van was the 17th or 18th conversion he has done. I spoke with another customer of his and he was very happy with his van. That said, it does sound like he has not seen this setup before and maybe this thread will help us tie this loose end up.

Thanks for all the advice, I will let you know how it goes.
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Type17
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 7:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Subaru conversion and Aux Battery Reply with quote

Jake de Villiers wrote:
Carrothead wrote:
I just got my van back from having a subaru conversion (2.5L) and it is beautiful. The only problem I have is that my aux battery no longer charges. The guy who did the conversion said it is because the subaru alternator doesn't put out as much power to "activate" the isolator.

Also, the alt light glows constantly.

My van is a 91 tin top to pop-top conversion, not the GL, and I have the Aux kit and battery from Van-cafe.

I am wondering how to approach this:

1) new alternator seems expensive and maybe not even be available? Will my subaru alternator charge both batteries adequately?

2) is there a different isolator I can install?

3) Can I just install a switch that I can do what the isolator does manually? I have a friend with an older bus and an after market aux battery that has a manual switch.

4) something I haven't thought of yet?

I really hope someone has solved this problem elegantly.

(it is nice to go 65 up Mt. Bachelor with 5 people and gear, but it would be way cooler with a working stereo).


Your 'mechanic' needs to swap the blue alternator wire from G4 to G3 on the back of the fuse block. Boy, I hope he got some of the rest of the conversion right...


i cant remember the pin locations off the top of my head, but this sounds correct. the subaru alternator will not charge if there is a draw on its exciter wire (blue wire). the camper relay is originally hooked up to this wire and needs to be switched to ignition controlled power to function properly.
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Jake de Villiers
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 1:30 am    Post subject: Re: Subaru conversion and Aux Battery Reply with quote

Type17 wrote:
Jake de Villiers wrote:
Carrothead wrote:
I just got my van back from having a subaru conversion (2.5L) and it is beautiful. The only problem I have is that my aux battery no longer charges. The guy who did the conversion said it is because the subaru alternator doesn't put out as much power to "activate" the isolator.

Also, the alt light glows constantly.

My van is a 91 tin top to pop-top conversion, not the GL, and I have the Aux kit and battery from Van-cafe.

I am wondering how to approach this:

1) new alternator seems expensive and maybe not even be available? Will my subaru alternator charge both batteries adequately?

2) is there a different isolator I can install?

3) Can I just install a switch that I can do what the isolator does manually? I have a friend with an older bus and an after market aux battery that has a manual switch.

4) something I haven't thought of yet?

I really hope someone has solved this problem elegantly.

(it is nice to go 65 up Mt. Bachelor with 5 people and gear, but it would be way cooler with a working stereo).


Your 'mechanic' needs to swap the blue alternator wire from G4 to G3 on the back of the fuse block. Boy, I hope he got some of the rest of the conversion right...


i cant remember the pin locations off the top of my head, but this sounds correct. the subaru alternator will not charge if there is a draw on its exciter wire (blue wire). the camper relay is originally hooked up to this wire and needs to be switched to ignition controlled power to function properly.


See my response above.
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Type17
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 7:34 pm    Post subject: Re: Subaru conversion and Aux Battery Reply with quote

Jake de Villiers wrote:
Type17 wrote:
Jake de Villiers wrote:
Carrothead wrote:
I just got my van back from having a subaru conversion (2.5L) and it is beautiful. The only problem I have is that my aux battery no longer charges. The guy who did the conversion said it is because the subaru alternator doesn't put out as much power to "activate" the isolator.

Also, the alt light glows constantly.

My van is a 91 tin top to pop-top conversion, not the GL, and I have the Aux kit and battery from Van-cafe.

I am wondering how to approach this:

1) new alternator seems expensive and maybe not even be available? Will my subaru alternator charge both batteries adequately?

2) is there a different isolator I can install?

3) Can I just install a switch that I can do what the isolator does manually? I have a friend with an older bus and an after market aux battery that has a manual switch.

4) something I haven't thought of yet?

I really hope someone has solved this problem elegantly.

(it is nice to go 65 up Mt. Bachelor with 5 people and gear, but it would be way cooler with a working stereo).


Your 'mechanic' needs to swap the blue alternator wire from G4 to G3 on the back of the fuse block. Boy, I hope he got some of the rest of the conversion right...


i cant remember the pin locations off the top of my head, but this sounds correct. the subaru alternator will not charge if there is a draw on its exciter wire (blue wire). the camper relay is originally hooked up to this wire and needs to be switched to ignition controlled power to function properly.


See my response above.


I did, and I quoted it. Thanks.

But back to the topic at hand, is the aux battery isolator even powered by the blue alt wire? I just noticed that it's a tin top, so I'm now thinking you might have some post-factory wiring to deal with. Although the symptoms are totally in line with what happens with the factory camper wiring. Question
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specialev
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The isolator isn't powered by the blue wire. It's the trigger wire to cause the relay or solenoid to lick over letting the alternate battery see current from the alternator. Most of the isolators are designed to work with the factory VW wiring that will see 12v at that wire when the alternator is running which will in turn cause the solenoid to flip over once the motor is running (alt. spinning).

The subie alternator doesn't put out a full 12v (as I recall) so you have to use one of the key on hot spades on the fuse box to cause the solenoid to kick over.

This just means that instead of having your battery isolate when the motor isn't running it will isolate when the key isn't on. Just don't leave the keys on.
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Carrothead
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PostPosted: Thu May 02, 2013 8:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I took it back and he rewired it as discussed. Everything is working perfectly now. But according to this discussion I may need to rewire the radio so it doesn't require the key on?

The aftermarket wiring was done by me per the instructions from the kit from van cafe.
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edgood1
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PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2013 3:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Carrothead wrote:
So I took it back and he rewired it as discussed. Everything is working perfectly now. But according to this discussion I may need to rewire the radio so it doesn't require the key on?

The aftermarket wiring was done by me per the instructions from the kit from van cafe.


I used a relay that is triggered by the key-in wire for the switched ignition signal to the radio. The source 12V comes from my aux battery.

This way as long as the key is in the radio is on an drawing from the aux battery. Theres a thread on it, do a search.
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